Issues with CPP tubular upper control arm

[mahanian]

I'm stumped so decided it was time to ask the community. I've got the front end of my truck back together on my 67 with 2.5" drop spindles, ECE 1.5" drop springs, stock lower control arms and CPP tubular upper control arms. When I installed the CPP tubular control arms I didn't install the factory shims between them and the frame because I could tell they were longer than the stock upper control arm. After I got the stock lower control arms, drop spindles and other suspension and steering parts installed and the truck back on the ground I noticed the wheels have a lot of positive camber. With the drop spring installed the lower control arm is at a slight angle past parallel to the ground but the control arm is parallel to the ground. This causes the top of the spindle to be pushed out. The blue lines in the image attached should help explain this.

As I mentioned I don't have any shims installed on the upper control arm so I can't move the upper control arm any closure to the frame. I'm not sure what to do, any suggestions??

[lolife99]

Do you have any actual pictures of your truck suspension?

I have CPP upper arms and stock lower arms on my red '69.

[mahanian]

I'll try and get a couple pictures

[Tmend]

They may have sold u 1973 and up control arms
Posted via Mobile Device

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Tmend

They may have sold u 1973 and up control arms
Posted via Mobile Device

Same arm,... different balljoint.

[Tmend]

I'm sure u bought 1973 and up drop spindles so they prob sold u the same year control arm by mistake I can see that happening
Posted via Mobile Device

[mahanian]

Here are a few pictures, the drop spindles were part of the disc brake conversion I bought from CPP as well. I pulled the wheel and lowered it onto some blocks of wood so it would be more clear. Everything has been rebuild so new bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc.

[Tmend]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Same arm,... different balljoint.

But I think the drop spindle is for a 73 and up so the ball joint would fit.. Just a thought
Posted via Mobile Device

[chevytruckluver]

I could tell they were longer than the stock upper control arm
I think I would have stopped at this point to confirm that I had the correct part, as far as I know the tubular arm should keep the upper ball joint in the same location as the stock arm

[mahanian]

I bought the upper control arms at a different time and ordered 71-72 tubular control arms, how would I tell if they sent me the wrong ones?

[chevytruckluver]

seeing the new pics you just posted, your upper ball joint is installed incorrectly. It should be on top of the arm.

[mahanian]

Originally Posted by chevytruckluver

I could tell they were longer than the stock upper control arm
I think I would have stopped at this point to confirm that I had the correct part, as far as I know the tubular arm should keep the upper ball joint in the same location as the stock arm

I figured it may have been a perception thing on my part since they are designed to provide more caster

[mahanian]

Originally Posted by chevytruckluver

seeing the new pics you just posted, your upper ball joint is installed incorrectly. It should be on top of the arm.

Hmmmm....they came already installed and I just did a google search and others pics show them mounted on the bottom

http://image.superchevy.com/f/360533...ntrol_arms.jpg

[lolife99]

I don't really see anything obvious.
Supposedly the CPP upper arms are 1/2" longer that stock.
This works great with extreme drop springs because you normally run out of room to add shims to get the camber correct.
I wouldn't worry about it until you get it to the alignment shop and let them do their job.

I had these arms on my 2wd blazer when it was static dropped.
I was able to get my caster higher than with the stock arms.
Shoot for +5 caster or more.
My blazer has power steering and it drove great.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by mahanian

Hmmmm....they came already installed and I just did a google search and others pics show them mounted on the bottom

http://image.superchevy.com/f/360533...ntrol_arms.jpg

Mine are installed the same way and I hate it!
You are relying on the shear strength of the bolt head,... to keep you from a bad wreck.
They should be on top,... but CPP doesn't make the balljoint pocket big enough without grinding the crap out of the balljoint.

I used them on my red truck,... because I had them.
Porterbuilt wasn't around when I bought mine.
I will buy PB control arms from now on.
Especialy their Forward Series arms.

[Tmend]

Originally Posted by mahanian

I bought the upper control arms at a different time and ordered 71-72 tubular control arms, how would I tell if they sent me the wrong ones?

Y did u order for 71-71 if u have 67 on their sit has 2diff part # 1 for 63-70 and 1 for 71-72
Posted via Mobile Device

[mahanian]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I don't really see anything obvious.
Supposedly the CPP upper arms are 1/2" longer that stock.
This works great with extreme drop springs because you normally run out of room to add shims to get the camber correct.
I wouldn't worry about it until you get it to the alignment shop and let them do their job.

I had these arms on my 2wd blazer when it was static dropped.
I was able to get my caster higher than with the stock arms.
Shoot for +5 caster or more.
My blazer has power steering and it drove great.

Thanks, I'm planning on getting it aligned tomorrow but I was worried they were going to tell me they couldn't get any negative camber and I would be hosed

[Tmend]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Mine are installed the same way and I hate it!
You are relying on the shear strength of the bolt head,... to keep you from a bad wreck.
They should be on top,... but CPP doesn't make the balljoint pocket big enough without grinding the crap out of the balljoint.

I used them on my red truck,... because I had them.
Porterbuilt wasn't around when I bought mine.
I will buy PB control arms from now on.
Especialy their Forward Series arms.

The only thing a shop can do to fix this would remove upper arm shims and he doesn't have any or push the lower arm out and that's not possible.. U have the Wong parts somewhere in the mix... What year was the upgrade brake kit ( spindles)
Posted via Mobile Device

[mahanian]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Mine are installed the same way and I hate it!
You are relying on the shear strength of the bolt head,... to keep you from a bad wreck.
They should be on top,... but CPP doesn't make the balljoint pocket big enough without grinding the crap out of the balljoint.

I used them on my red truck,... because I had them.
Porterbuilt wasn't around when I bought mine.
I will buy PB control arms from now on.
Especialy their Forward Series arms.

I agree, I don't like that the bolts are taking the load. Does the forward series center the wheel in the fender and give more caster? I really want to pull the wheels back in to align with my 67 rear end again as well

Originally Posted by Tmend

Y did u order for 71-71 if u have 67 on their sit has 2diff part # 1 for 63-70 and 1 for 71-72
Posted via Mobile Device

Because I ordered the 71/72 spindles to get the bigger ball joints

[Tmend]

Just a thought from the pics u don't have the upper ball joint bolted to the spindle nuts missing...if u put one on and u can't get a couterpin in the hole it's not properly seated and will cause positive caster cuz the spindle is not being pulled in if so the u for sure have the wrong parts
Posted via Mobile Device

[mahanian]

Originally Posted by Tmend

The only thing a shop can do to fix this would remove upper arm shims and he doesn't have any or push the lower arm out and that's not possible.. U have the Wong parts somewhere in the mix... What year was the upgrade brake kit ( spindles)
Posted via Mobile Device

The disc brake conversion was a complete kit, I got the drop spindle with the 71/72 ball joints. The only other part not in the kit was the control arms. Not sure what part would be wroing

[Tmend]

Positive camber is what I ment sorry
Posted via Mobile Device

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by mahanian

I agree, I don't like that the bolts are taking the load.
Does the forward series center the wheel in the fender and give more caster? I really want to pull the wheels back in to align with my 67 rear end again as well

Yes.

Look here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=537266

Member Gringoloco is getting ready to install a set of lowers on his truck.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444746

Portebuilt makes them for bagged trucks and has a bolt in adapter to hold a coil spring also!

[mahanian]

Originally Posted by Tmend

Just a thought from the pics u don't have the upper ball joint bolted to the spindle nuts missing...if u put one on and u can't get a couterpin in the hole it's not properly seated and will cause positive caster cuz the spindle is not being pulled in if so the u for sure have the wrong parts
Posted via Mobile Device

I don't follow, the castle nut is installed on the upper ball joint and the cotter pin is installed.

[Tmend]

Originally Posted by mahanian

I don't follow, the castle nut is installed on the upper ball joint and the cotter pin is installed.

Yea saw it ...zoomed in
Posted via Mobile Device