Picture Request - Manual Air Ride Switches/Gauges

[72BlckButy]

SCOTI... you are running 4-way setup right? Just don't have the other switches mounted?

AVSJASON... what is the depth measurement of your switch/gauge pod pictured above?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

SCOTI... you are running 4-way setup right? Just don't have the other switches mounted?

Looks like 4 bags,... and 4 paddle valves/switches.
The paddle move one direction to fill, the other direction to dump.

[ol_skool_chevy]

Originally Posted by AVS_JASON

I went to this site and could not find this paddle valve set...............where is is...a link?

[cubber]

who makes a panel that will hold 2 guages, 4 switches, but has the ROUND holes for the toggle switch looking valves?

[rmvlt1100]

Here is mine with manual valves. I made a mount a took out the ash tray brackets.

[tubbedII]

Looks very clean rmvlt1100, nice job!

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by rmvlt1100

Here is mine with manual valves. I made a mount a took out the ash tray brackets.

Are the switches/panel from Boris at Street Machinery?

[Rochlow]

I'm curious why your going with manual switches.

My reasoning for not using them is to cut down on the amount of airline that could possible get a leak in it. Just my opinion, but with manual valves there is a whole lot of lines going into the cab.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

SCOTI... you are running 4-way setup right? Just don't have the other switches mounted?

Correct. I pulled the other switches & the gauges to test fit them into an overhead console for my dually (just in case ).

Originally Posted by Rochlow

I'm curious why your going with manual switches.

My reasoning for not using them is to cut down on the amount of airline that could possible get a leak in it. Just my opinion, but with manual valves there is a whole lot of lines going into the cab.

My previous set-up was rear only & had 3x 1/4" airlines (1x air in; 2x air out) plus the 1/8" airlines for the gauges. I utilized a firewall grommet (for wiper-washer hoses) & plan to set my 64 up the same. I'll just double the quantity since I'm running a 2nd comp & tank.

[theastronaut]

DLOE65's manual valves look really nice, I'm torn between keeping it simple and using his manual valves or going all the way with Accuair E-level when I get to that point.

http://dloesvalves.webstarts.com/index.html

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

I'm curious why your going with manual switches.

My reasoning for not using them is to cut down on the amount of airline that could possible get a leak in it. Just my opinion, but with manual valves there is a whole lot of lines going into the cab.

I guess if it's setup right... there shouldn't be any leaks.

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

DLOE65's manual valves look really nice, I'm torn between keeping it simple and using his manual valves or going all the way with Accuair E-level when I get to that point.

http://dloesvalves.webstarts.com/index.html

This is exactly what I'm having issues with.

[Rochlow]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

I guess if it's setup right... there shouldn't be any leaks.

ok.. Really not leaking, but increasing the chances of one of the lines coming in contact with metal when it passes through the cab twice. Unless you are using one feed line and making four T's inside the cab.

I like the simplicity of a manual valve, its just the amount of lines that has always concerned me.

Just my point of view.. Either way your truck will look great on air.

[72BlckButy]

Trust me Rochlow... I know exactly where you are coming from. With money aside... Accuair would have been ordered. Ha!

However, ease of use and quality are my main concerns. Ease of use could be on the installation side or on the function side... just depends on how wide I want to open my pocket book.

[jimmydean]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

ok.. Really not leaking, but increasing the chances of one of the lines coming in contact with metal when it passes through the cab twice. Unless you are using one feed line and making four T's inside the cab.

I like the simplicity of a manual valve, its just the amount of lines that has always concerned me.

Just my point of view.. Either way your truck will look great on air.

As long as you pass the lines into the cab using a grommet, your fine. But all lines on your system need to be routed and secured properly anyway.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

ok.. Really not leaking, but increasing the chances of one of the lines coming in contact with metal when it passes through the cab twice. Unless you are using one feed line and making four T's inside the cab.I like the simplicity of a manual valve, its just the amount of lines that has always concerned me.

Just my point of view.. Either way your truck will look great on air.

This would be the way to go w/manual control. One 'supply' line from each tank T'd off to each corner.

[rmvlt1100]

Originally Posted by tubbedII

Looks very clean rmvlt1100, nice job!

Thanks for the look tubbedII. Have a good day.
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[rmvlt1100]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

Are the switches/panel from Boris at Street Machinery?

No, the panel I made from some thick sheet metal and the switches I got from a friend of mine that had extra ones. I have to replace them later. I also had the gauges from a previous purchase off of e-bay.
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[rmvlt1100]

Originally Posted by Rochlow

I'm curious why your going with manual switches.

My reasoning for not using them is to cut down on the amount of airline that could possible get a leak in it. Just my opinion, but with manual valves there is a whole lot of lines going into the cab.

I talked to some friends that do air ride systems and they all like the manual systems because their is no maintance on the selnoids, less chance of electrical issues and their cheaper. They would rather fix a cut in the air line on the road then have to trouble shoo a selnoid or electrical problems. They carry extra splice fittings in case there is a problem with the lines. It is a tough to run the lines to and from the switches. I will try them out and I don't like it I can switch to the electronic selnoid without mice of a money loss.

Have a good day.
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[AVS_JASON]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

I went to this site and could not find this paddle valve set...............where is is...a link?

That is something that we put together. It is not on my website. I have all the parts here for it though.

[AVS_JASON]

Originally Posted by cubber

who makes a panel that will hold 2 guages, 4 switches, but has the ROUND holes for the toggle switch looking valves?

We can cut out any panel you need.

[jondancer]

You guys with manual valves; where do your air lines enter/exit out of the cab?

[rmvlt1100]

The lines to the front wheels, the drives side goes out the fire wall where the inner fender bolts to the fire wall. The same on the passenger side. The rear lines I wrapped them in tech-flex loom and ran them under the seat to the rear of the cab and exit the cab there. The rear lines share the hole where the supply line goes to the valves. If I can find pictures I will post them. Hope this helps and have a good night.

[C1ph3r]

Sitting in on this one. Manual, electric, hose routing. all of which I am struggling with. Because of cost, I am certainly starting with manual. I just hate having to put all those holes in the cab for lines. I am drawn to electric because it just seems like it would be easier to get back to ride height with out having to bump each corner. it will be my DD so that will get old.

[C1ph3r]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

DLOE65's manual valves look really nice, I'm torn between keeping it simple and using his manual valves or going all the way with Accuair E-level when I get to that point.

http://dloesvalves.webstarts.com/index.html

Oh now i dig this. looks more period correct than the plastic looking ones. i like that they have mufflers also.