1950-ish Chevy 3100 Build

[mechanixman]

Ebay version of it, but yeah

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Ebay version of it, but yeah

Link? I like cheap parts! Is it a 28", 30" or 32"?

[mechanixman]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-30-Ti...b8e0ff&vxp=mtr

Here is the one I'm looking at.
Based on the photo, I'm planning on doing the intermediate shaft, so 28 is probably best, but really it's up to you.
If you do decide to use a manual steering box of a c10 or c20, the gear box's mounting points are parallel with the input shaft, so the best option (without making a new mount) would be the picture to the right.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-30-Ti...b8e0ff&vxp=mtr

Here is the one I'm looking at.
Based on the photo, I'm planning on doing the intermediate shaft, so 28 is probably best, but really it's up to you.
If you do decide to use a manual steering box of a c10 or c20, the gear box's mounting points are parallel with the input shaft, so the best option (without making a new mount) would be the picture to the right.

Oh, that's a good column at a great price.

So what shaft are you using?

[jrdamien]

As I continue to get everything in order (finishing frame tomorrow, hopefully) I am thinking about the under bed gas tank. I'm going to keep the spare on the outside of the bed. But how could I reinforce the rear some to help in the case of a possible rear ending?

My thought is to move the spare tire cross member to the very rear of the chassis, flipped on its side open end out. But what about welding in a thick plate and putting some bumper styro in between that and the tank? Ideas?

[mechanixman]

I plan on making my own linkage. (Today I tried to find a set up that was ready to go, no such luck.) Really all it is, is a smaller shaft in a tube (for the sliding part) and some sort of key way. (for the turning part. ) All between 2 knuckles.

Here's a picture of one I found. Hope it helps.

As for the rear, some heavier gauge box tubing (compared to the spare tire rack) welded between the two frame rails, then a set of gussets added to the frame should make it strong enough. I like that idea of styrofoam.

[mechanixman]

Well i came up with a quick model.
Dark Grey are the frame rails
Brown/light grey is the new piece/tire bracket
Red are the gussets
Polished look is the tank
and the pink would be the styrofoam

In the second picture I took out the foam to show gussets both top and bottom.

Whadya think?

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Well i came up with a quick model.
Dark Grey are the frame rails
Brown/light grey is the new piece/tire bracket
Red are the gussets
Polished look is the tank
and the pink would be the styrofoam

In the second picture I took out the foam to show gussets both top and bottom.

Whadya think?

This is really more or less what I was thinking. Maybe less foam...

[jrdamien]

Some progress today. Heated the rear engine cross member, braced the rear of the member and used a porta power to spread the member open. I had some very small success and then broke the spreader! Snapped one of the jaws in two. I don't know how many psi I was applying before I could no longer put my full weight into the porta (I weight 300 lbs) but it was at least many time more than what that x-member will ever be carrying in weight.

Or so I hope because I am without the means to do anything to it.

Here's the good side:



And the bad:



I also found this concern:



Less than an inch long but it looks like a tear. Is this rust through? What to do about it?

Removed spare tire cross member (which took about 2 damn hours) and gave the top of the frame one coat of rusty metal primer. Love the primer. Goes on well, looks great.

[jrdamien]

Can someone explain to me the function of the leaf spring shackles and bushings? I've taken leaf springs off newer trucks and they weren't these special double threaded assemblies.

Is there an alternative to the original hardware? I have the shackle rails still.

[semn49]

I also found this concern:



Less than an inch long but it looks like a tear. Is this rust through? What to do about it?

I wouldn't worry a whole lot about it, but as long as you are right there I would clean it up and weld it up. Should be fine. Is it next to where that trans cross member is? Maybe caused by the stress put on trying to straighten it?

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by semn49

I also found this concern:



Less than an inch long but it looks like a tear. Is this rust through? What to do about it?

I wouldn't worry a whole lot about it, but as long as you are right there I would clean it up and weld it up. Should be fine. Is it next to where that trans cross member is? Maybe caused by the stress put on trying to straighten it?

It wasn't through and was actually on top of the middle x-member above the e-brake bar. Cleaned, welded, painted.

[jrdamien]

Progress:



Rustoleum Enamel brushes on like s**t, rolls on pretty good, and sprays on perfect.

Soon the fun of building the damn thing actually begins. I was unprepared for how much work this would be but the worst of it feels behind me.

NOW...

A: How to I get the kingpins out? Do I have to take the whole axle to a shop and get them pressed in and out?

B: The tie rod is a little bent so I was going to get a new one and modern ends for $100. My drag links seem fine. They were rusty but after flooding them with PB and moving them around the rust came out and the balls look good. So what to do? How do these balls even come out?

[semn49]

Looks good!

A. If memory serves me, I think there is a bolt/nut on the neck that comes out, then you should be able to push the out.

B. Are they held in by a threaded piece that just unscrews with an over sized screwdriver?

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by semn49

Looks good!

A. If memory serves me, I think there is a bolt/nut on the neck that comes out, then you should be able to push the out.

B. Are they held in by a threaded piece that just unscrews with an over sized screwdriver?

Yes and yes. But the pins are seized somehow and the screws are rusted closed! Axle is going to a shop regardless - don't want to break anything with the hammer.

[jrdamien]

Of course I have to find a shop first who will do it for less than $100, which seems to be the going rate.

[semn49]

Originally Posted by jrdamien

Of course I have to find a shop first who will do it for less than $100, which seems to be the going rate.

How long before you come my way again? A friend has done a couple of those and has a press.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by semn49

How long before you come my way again? A friend has done a couple of those and has a press.

Not sure but I'll know by the weekend. Going to call around to some shops tomorrow, too.

[jrdamien]

Got the king pins pressed out at a local spring shop. $40 bucks. 100 ton press.

Got to talking to the owner about the truck - he said "I have a pallet full of these exact same axles and spindles only bigger." He showed me. Damn near identical assembly only about twice as big used for modern deliver trucks (UPS, FEDEX, etc). Gave me renewed faith in keeping it a straight axle.

[jrdamien]

Slowly but surely...



Rusty metal primer, rustoleum/Ace gloss black enamel. I think this was the way to go - seems to have cured plenty hard and it can be touched up with a rattle can whenever it needs to be.

Parts are on the way. This week I'll re-hang the springs, get the front axle on, and get the disc brakes installed.

Picking up engine on Sunday and rear end (s10 4x4) next week.

NEED to find some front shock mounts.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by jrdamien

Slowly but surely...



Rusty metal primer, rustoleum/Ace gloss black enamel. I think this was the way to go - seems to have cured plenty hard and it can be touched up with a rattle can whenever it needs to be.

Parts are on the way. This week I'll re-hang the springs, get the front axle on, and get the disc brakes installed.

Picking up engine on Sunday and rear end (s10 4x4) next week.

NEED to find some front shock mounts.

Send me a picture of exactly what you need. I am going to be stripping my front suspension out in the next few weeks. If you can wait and if they come off in good shape you can have them for free. I might try and start on the suspension this weekend but with my having to travel for work it may be mid-December.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by Root2812

Send me a picture of exactly what you need. I am going to be stripping my front suspension out in the next few weeks. If you can wait and if they come off in good shape you can have them for free. I might try and start on the suspension this weekend but with my having to travel for work it may be mid-December.

I may have a local lead, if not I'll post pics. Do you have the lower shock mount "hoops" by chance, or the rear motor mounts for the 216/early 235?

[semn49]

I have a set of these if these are the ones.

https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/images...ew/3693687.jpg

I've got the bumpstops that go with them also.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by semn49

I have a set of these if these are the ones.

https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/images...ew/3693687.jpg

I've got the bumpstops that go with them also.

No, those I have and the bump stops. What I'm looking for looks like an hoop that bolts through that piece you pictured.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by jrdamien

No, those I have and the bump stops. What I'm looking for looks like an hoop that bolts through that piece you pictured.

Scratch that. I see those shock mount "hoops" must have been a later addition. There's no such thing on the stock setup.