1950-ish Chevy 3100 Build

[jrdamien]

Have you ever had the distinct feeling you've bitten off more than you can chew?

Today was spent picking up the frame. I got it from fellow site member semn49. A really good guy who gave me a hell of a deal on a rolling '49 chassis that's in remarkable shape.

The truck I was going to use to tow the frame fell through, and then the trailer I was going to borrow become unavailable, but today had to be the day, so...



Does this violate the *-Haul contract?
FIY, *-Haul trucks are only as long as they're advertised along the top. I almost drove off with a truck several feet too short for the frame.

Got it to the garage and gave it a good look over. I already knew it was a in great shape. Someone, somewhere along the line, cleaned and painted it already. No way it's this good after 60 years:



There's not even enough rust to scrape!

Here's the only bummer. The rear engine crossmember is bent in and will have to be beat out:



Tomorrow I'm going to tear it down and clean it up...after I return the pneumatic scraper and greaser I bought because I just won't need it. I'll use that money to buy the rusty metal primer and paint!

Funny story: I asked the kid at HB where the pneumatic tools were and he looked at me dead eyed and said "The what?"

[semn49]

Glad to see it didn't come out the back door!

I'll for sure be watching this one.

[Root2812]

I'm glad to see you found a frame. Do you already have the body? I was reading the other threads you had going on but may have gotten confused. Is this the frame with the Heidts cross member in it already or a different one?

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by Root2812

I'm glad to see you found a frame. Do you already have the body? I was reading the other threads you had going on but may have gotten confused. Is this the frame with the Heidts cross member in it already or a different one?

No, the Heidts frame was one of two I was going to get but seller of Heidts frame decided he'd only sell it with the worthless body so I passed.

Now it's just this frame and the body. Going for a very budget, very original build (with a few exceptions).

So yes I do have a body though I need some fenders eventually because the ones I have have some rust holes.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by semn49

Glad to see it didn't come out the back door!

I'll for sure be watching this one.

Thanks again Bill, both for the frame and for getting it into the truck!

[jrdamien]

Anyone care to weigh in on the chassis color?

Black or red?

[semn49]

Red kind of peaks my interest, but I'd still probably go with black. It goes with anything.

[mr48chev]

Not a bad looking frame.

What is the rust problem in your front fenders? you might find a fender that is banged up in a different spot that you can cut a patch out of or I have some scrap fenders of a big truck that are banged up around the headlights but may have the part you need that can be cut out. That would only take the price of what it costs to mail the sections. They aren't any good to put on a truck but have a lot of patches left in them.

[jrdamien]

So I tore it down today. Could some of you help me out with a few questions?

A: Leaf spring perches. I had to grind the rivets (or whatever they are) on the shackles/perches to get the front and rear leaf springs off. The perches are in great condition but what sort of bolts or connectors do I use to reconnect them to the frame?

B: Transmission support. I took out the stock crossmember because it's not going to work with the T5 setup I'm going to use. Do I need to add some reinforcement in place of that member?

C: Clutch/brake pedal mount. For those of you who have upgraded to power brakes do you use the stock mount and pedal assembly?

[mechanixman]

This seems like a great start I'd like to see where this is heading.
A. I'm afraid I can't help here too much. You can pick up some grade 11 hardware at fastenal, I'd use that.

B. not if you're fabbing a rear cross member for the T-5. But just to be safe, I'd say go for it. I've heard other guys say that without that reinforcement, the frame buckles in on itself.

C. yeah. the only downside to using the original mount and pedal assembly is that you need to cut a hole in the floor to access the new MC.

[semn49]

C: Clutch/brake pedal mount. For those of you who have upgraded to power brakes do you use the stock mount and pedal assembly?[/QUOTE]

If you want to leave the brake pedal in the stock position under the floor there is a bracket you can order that lets you bolt a dual master into that position. I actually have one that I copied off of a aftermarket one I bought.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by semn49

C: Clutch/brake pedal mount. For those of you who have upgraded to power brakes do you use the stock mount and pedal assembly?

If you want to leave the brake pedal in the stock position under the floor there is a bracket you can order that lets you bolt a dual master into that position. I actually have one that I copied off of a aftermarket one I bought.[/QUOTE]

Bill did you fab an extra one of those brackets?

[jrdamien]

Took about 8 hours to tear it down and clean half of it up.



I have my first real sense of just how long this might take to do...and it's a little daunting.

Here's hoping I can meet my deadline and goal, both time and money wise.

[musgrave]

I know how you feel about taking on to big of an project. What I have done is keep a part of the truck some where that you keep on tripping on it so you don't for get about it. So far its working for me. Looks like your doing a great job so far, keep up the good work.

[semn49]

Originally Posted by jrdamien

If you want to leave the brake pedal in the stock position under the floor there is a bracket you can order that lets you bolt a dual master into that position. I actually have one that I copied off of a aftermarket one I bought.

Bill did you fab an extra one of those brackets? [/QUOTE]

It's somewhat like this?
http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodin...number=DMC5959

I'll see if I can find it.

[semn49]

Found it! Here's a couple photos, not the clearest but....

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by musgrave

I know how you feel about taking on to big of an project. What I have done is keep a part of the truck some where that you keep on tripping on it so you don't for get about it. So far its working for me. Looks like your doing a great job so far, keep up the good work.

Well I literally only have til about mid-Feb to finish it (renting a garage), so that's the motivation.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by semn49

Found it! Here's a couple photos, not the clearest but....

I'll have to take a look and see if that would maybe line up.

As for front suspension. Everything seems to be in really good shape but I do have 2 questions:

A: How much play should there be in the kingpin? There's a little bit of movement when I move the spindle up and down but it moves nice and smooth side to side.

B: What's the title of the rod that connects the tie rods? The long piece that runs the length of the beam - I'm having a bad memory moment. 'That' is not entirely straight. Does it matter?

[semn49]

Originally Posted by jrdamien

I'll have to take a look and see if that would maybe line up.

As for front suspension. Everything seems to be in really good shape but I do have 2 questions:

A: How much play should there be in the kingpin? There's a little bit of movement when I move the spindle up and down but it moves nice and smooth side to side.

B: What's the title of the rod that connects the tie rods? The long piece that runs the length of the beam - I'm having a bad memory moment. 'That' is not entirely straight. Does it matter?

It should be a bolt in fit as it was modeled directly after the one I bought, and it put everything right in line.

I don't think you want any play, a nice easy to turn fit. Make sure the play isn't in the hub/bearings.

I call it the tie rod, it connects the 2 tie rod ends? I'd just straighten it best you can if it isn't compromised in any other way.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by semn49

It should be a bolt in fit as it was modeled directly after the one I bought, and it put everything right in line.

I don't think you want any play, a nice easy to turn fit. Make sure the play isn't in the hub/bearings.

I call it the tie rod, it connects the 2 tie rod ends? I'd just straighten it best you can if it isn't compromised in any other way.

I mean I'm trying to decide if I'm going to mount the master to the firewall or under the cab. I'm leaning firewall and hanging pedals so there's no issue with the clutch.

It's just the spindle bolted to the axle so I think the only possible play is in the king pin.

I should have got that steering column and box from you - might not need or be able to do power steering right away (I really can't even find a definitive way to do it that doesn't have the left wheel rubbing the box during turns).

[jrdamien]

Anyone have an opinion on how important or necessary (if at all) power steering is? The front end will be rebuilt and I'll be running radials.

[mechanixman]

Not necessary.
But it's probably a good idea to keep the large diameter steering wheel.
That's what I'm doing.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Not necessary.
But it's probably a good idea to keep the large diameter steering wheel.
That's what I'm doing.

The idea for power steering was to shorten the column and move the wheel into a slightly less death prone position. Lil' more room in the cab and a little extra safety.

[mechanixman]

Ah
I see what you're saying.
But what I'm working on, is a steering box off a 82 c10, and and an aftermarket collapsible column.
Thus the less chance of the steering column shooting through the dash.

[jrdamien]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Ah
I see what you're saying.
But what I'm working on, is a steering box off a 82 c10, and and an aftermarket collapsible column.
Thus the less chance of the steering column shooting through the dash.

Manual box? Which after market column (Ididit)?