C10 pro street HELP

[J Knight]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

It would cost no more money to build the 10 bolt than the 12 bolt or the 9" and it would be plenty strong..

Regardless of which rear end he builds, 10, 12, or 9in, it will cost about $2K+ by the time he buys a carrier, bearings, gears, axles, brakes, two all beef patties on a sesame seed bun.

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

I honestly dont see you making enough power to break the 10 bolt but thats just me...

It is a lot of work and expense to tub a truck with a one off rear end. It just doesn't make sense to me to do all that with a 10 bolt rear end good for maybe 400-500 hp at best. What if he blows up his 400-ish hp motor then upgrades to a 700 hp motor? He would have to build another $2K rear end to handle the 700 hp motor when he could have built a rear end tough from the start for the same amount of money. I get your point but we are talking about a tubbed truck not your everyday c10 dropped on 295/45/20's.

[andrewmp6]

To tub anything isn't cheap,For a narrow rear end the 9 inch is a little easier to do but you are right the price is going to be high for any rear end.And horse power can be a drug you always want more and end up breaking something.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

It would cost no more money to build the 10 bolt than the 12 bolt or the 9" and it would be plenty strong. I honestly dont see you making enough power to break the 10 bolt but thats just me. I honestly dont care what rearend you use. It`s your money. I was just trying to correct the mis-information you were putting out there for whoever comes across this thread and thinks their rearend wont work because this guy says so.

your not making sense..... spend as much money on a 10 or 12 bolt as a 9 inch and have a weaker axle??? that makes no sense...

AND as ive clearly stated, this isnt the last motor that will be in this truck! its my first built motor and surely wont be my last. i also said everything on the truck was built with more power in mind down the road, thats why i have a trans thatll handle 1000 HP so if i use the same mind set for the rear end, when BIG motor time comes i wont have so much work to do over... now do you understand? you keeping going on and on about how im not gonna break a 10 bolt.. did I ever ask if my motor will break a 10 bolt? NO! because with posi and my foot on the street = NO 10 BOLT

BTW i never said "my rear-end wont work" so therefore i was not putting "mis-information" out there... i simply stated that "I was in the market for a FORD 9 INCH" i dont know where you came up with lets argue if my 10 bolt will hold or not since im not CURRENTLY making enough power.....

next you comment on someones thread please make sure you are answering the original ?s and not making your own arguements from what YOU THINK... Opinions are like Assholes, everybody's got one.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

To tub anything isn't cheap,For a narrow rear end the 9 inch is a little easier to do but you are right the price is going to be high for any rear end.And horse power can be a drug you always want more and end up breaking something.

thats what being a gear head is all about! this is my first built motor i had built by paying 100-200 each paycheck to my builder at 21, im now 23 and already thinking about the next motor i wanna put in this thing and the truck isnt even done yet! LOL it never ends! i just wanna build the truck right, so far ive used the best parts i could possibly afford and never settled just saved, so when its time for a BIG motor i wont have to worry about so much

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by J Knight

Regardless of which rear end he builds, 10, 12, or 9in, it will cost about $2K+ by the time he buys a carrier, bearings, gears, axles, brakes, two all beef patties on a sesame seed bun.



It is a lot of work and expense to tub a truck with a one off rear end. It just doesn't make sense to me to do all that with a 10 bolt rear end good for maybe 400-500 hp at best. What if he blows up his 400-ish hp motor then upgrades to a 700 hp motor? He would have to build another $2K rear end to handle the 700 hp motor when he could have built a rear end tough from the start for the same amount of money. I get your point but we are talking about a tubbed truck not your everyday c10 dropped on 295/45/20's.

i really could have not said it better myself.... THANK YOU J!

[DannyO]

You could do an Explorer 8.8 they are 31 spline from factory, unlimited gear selection, and disc brakes. you can get one at a junk yard for about $200. It can also be narrowed 3" on one side and get a short side shaft from a junk yard. You will have a bad a#$ rear end for about 400 bucks.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by DannyO

You could do an Explorer 8.8 they are 31 spline from factory, unlimited gear selection, and disc brakes. you can get one at a junk yard for about $200. It can also be narrowed 3" on one side and get a short side shaft from a junk yard. You will have a bad a#$ rear end for about 400 bucks.

WOW! thats something to thinK about.. thanks for the idea! im gonna dig into that.

[DannyO]

Originally Posted by Birdz85

WOW! thats something to thinK about.. thanks for the idea! im gonna dig into that.

Glad to help.

[Aaron_L]

It really doesn't take much to make the 8.5 a really stout rear. A really good friend of mine has one in his car that makes over 1000 hp dyno proven to the wheels. It's seen hundreds of launches on slicks with zero problems, and the car carries the wheels two feet in the air on the launch. It has aftermarket axles and gears on the stock posi unit. That's it, no trick parts, no bracing or welded tubes, or anything else. It still has c-clips, which technically is illegal for tech, but has never been called on it.

He's currently stepping up to a twin turbo 509 big block, which should be good for around 2000 hp, and he's finally talking about beefing up the rear. But he's still keeping the 8.5

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by Aaron_L

It really doesn't take much to make the 8.5 a really stout rear. A really good friend of mine has one in his car that makes over 1000 hp dyno proven to the wheels. It's seen hundreds of launches on slicks with zero problems, and the car carries the wheels two feet in the air on the launch. It has aftermarket axles and gears on the stock posi unit. That's it, no trick parts, no bracing or welded tubes, or anything else. It still has c-clips, which technically is illegal for tech, but has never been called on it.

He's currently stepping up to a twin turbo 509 big block, which should be good for around 2000 hp, and he's finally talking about beefing up the rear. But he's still keeping the 8.5

Talk about an eye opener! Lol I had no idea they could handle that type of power with custom parts lol. Especially C clips! Thanks for the info and story!

[Aaron_L]

The car is fast, and really simple with not a lot of trick parts. Here he is vs an R1 from a 60 roll. He hit the brakes at about 160 when he almost sh*t his pants, lol.

https://youtu.be/baFncS7UdPI

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by Aaron_L

The car is fast, and really simple with not a lot of trick parts. Here he is vs an R1 from a 60 roll. He hit the brakes at about 160 when he almost sh*t his pants, lol.

https://youtu.be/baFncS7UdPI

HOLY **** BATMAN!!! He's movin! That's for sure! Did he just use the breaks at 60 to spool him up?

[Aaron_L]

Originally Posted by Birdz85

HOLY **** BATMAN!!! He's movin! That's for sure! Did he just use the breaks at 60 to spool him up?

Yeah. Motor is a stock 4.8 he paid $300 for. The guy even brought it to his house for the $300. Unknown miles, only thing done to it was valve springs because they were floating when launching on the trans brake, and the Edelbrock intake and injectors. The heads have never been off and have the stock bolts. Right before the motor came out he put a 200 hit of spray on it, lol. He sold it to another guy and he's putting it in his car now.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by Aaron_L

Yeah. Motor is a stock 4.8 he paid $300 for. The guy even brought it to his house for the $300. Unknown miles, only thing done to it was valve springs because they were floating when launching on the trans brake, and the Edelbrock intake and injectors. The heads have never been off and have the stock bolts. Right before the motor came out he put a 200 hit of spray on it, lol. He sold it to another guy and he's putting it in his car now.

Ok now you lost me... It's a stock 4.8 turbo I take it, GN? And a 200 shot makes over a 1000hp???!!!

[Aaron_L]

Originally Posted by Birdz85

Ok now you lost me... It's a stock 4.8 turbo I take it, GN? And a 200 shot makes over a 1000hp???!!!

Yep, stock 4.8 out of like a Tahoe or Chevy truck. And a lot of boost, lol.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by Aaron_L

Yep, stock 4.8 out of like a Tahoe or Chevy truck. And a lot of boost, lol.

Holy moly lol at 1000hp it'd be a time bomb on stock internals no?

[Aaron_L]

Originally Posted by Birdz85

Holy moly lol at 1000hp it'd be a time bomb on stock internals no?

It's actually becoming a pretty common sight. These LS engines are capable of making a lot of power on stock internals. There are a lot of guys on turboforums, etc, that are making a lot of power. I think it was Hot Rod magazine that built a 4.8 that made 1200. Some of the 6.0's have weak rods in them, but the 4.8's & 5.3's are good to go. Plus they can be bought really cheap.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by Aaron_L

It's actually becoming a pretty common sight. These LS engines are capable of making a lot of power on stock internals. There are a lot of guys on turboforums, etc, that are making a lot of power. I think it was Hot Rod magazine that built a 4.8 that made 1200. Some of the 6.0's have weak rods in them, but the 4.8's & 5.3's are good to go. Plus they can be bought really cheap.

The rods are mostly what I was questioning, it's fun because as of right now my next motor I will be building for my truck is a 6.0 prolly procharged. Can be found and built for relatively cheap. Only aiming for 800-850 hp

[HeavyChevy81]

Just my .02
In my truck, I found that narrowing the axles in the 9" is simpler because the axles dont taper down near the splines (if you want cheap). They can simply be cut and re-splined. (If you or a buddy have access to a gear hobb)
Aftermarket axles are plentiful and reasonably priced, and upgrades to the centersection and bearings are very easy.
Gear selection is also a big plus with the 9".
I run a OEM 9" housing, narrowed, Strange Nodular Center with 3.125 bearings, 35 spline axles, and a spool. Gear swaps from 4.56 (1/8 mi) to 3.89 (1/4mi) are a snap. Can be done in about an hour.
I'm a GM guy, but hard to frown on the 9"
If memory is correct, I have about $1k in my rear assy. But, thats about 5-6 years ago.
My truck puts down 1018hp to the rear wheels, TH400 w/brake.
I leave on the brake at 4500, and I havent broken anything in the rear in years. Running M/T ET Drags.
Licensed, insured street legal.
9.82 @ 142 (1/4 mi) Street trim, through the mufflers.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by HeavyChevy81

Just my .02
In my truck, I found that narrowing the axles in the 9" is simpler because the axles dont taper down near the splines (if you want cheap). They can simply be cut and re-splined. (If you or a buddy have access to a gear hobb)
Aftermarket axles are plentiful and reasonably priced, and upgrades to the centersection and bearings are very easy.
Gear selection is also a big plus with the 9".
I run a OEM 9" housing, narrowed, Strange Nodular Center with 3.125 bearings, 35 spline axles, and a spool. Gear swaps from 4.56 (1/8 mi) to 3.89 (1/4mi) are a snap. Can be done in about an hour.
I'm a GM guy, but hard to frown on the 9"
If memory is correct, I have about $1k in my rear assy. But, thats about 5-6 years ago.
My truck puts down 1018hp to the rear wheels, TH400 w/brake.
I leave on the brake at 4500, and I havent broken anything in the rear in years. Running M/T ET Drags.
Licensed, insured street legal.
9.82 @ 142 (1/4 mi) Street trim, through the mufflers.

Your truck is absolutely BEAUTIFUL!!!!! Wow! Give me a second to pick up my jaw and tongue.....


Ok, I'm back!! Lol tell me a lil more about your motor.. What cubes? Compression? Blower? Block? Heads? That thing is simply amazing... Last but not least thanks for sharing your info and opinion, I'm keeping my eyes peeled locally for just a complete 9 inch chunk for a good price, my engine builder is prolly the biggest person in drag racing around here and he travels the country racing IHRA (Mike Thompson). Anyways, after I find a good chunk I'm just gonna order housing and axle combo from Currie or mouser. They aren't to bad on my right pocket or left ear (from wife *****ing) lol

[Birdz85]

P.S. Heavy- I'm from Dallas and have a deer lease in sweet water (about 45 min) outside abilean, currently reside in SW FL (Naples)

[HeavyChevy81]

LOL,
No problem.
540 Gen VI BBC Marine Block
AFR 357 Heads, Ti Valves, Ti retainers, Beehive springs, CompCams girdle.
Bullet custom camshaft, Solid Roller
Callies DragonSlayer Crank, Oliver Rods, JE Pistons.
BDS 8-71 Stage 2 Blower,
2-950 Demon Supercharger carbs.
MSD 6 Digital box, MSD billet Dist.
Headers by me, from kit.
TH400 with kilgore internals, TCI T-Brake.
hughes 4000HD convertor with Billet plate.
Alston Chassisworks "battlecruiser" ladder bar rear clip.
Santhuff Shocks
etc, etc, etc.
I built everything on the truck. Engine, Trans, Chassis, Paint, Interior.
BTW, Im a Certified welder and Certified Machinist at an Electric Power Plant.

[HeavyChevy81]

Originally Posted by Birdz85

P.S. Heavy- I'm from Dallas and have a deer lease in sweet water (about 45 min) outside abilean, currently reside in SW FL (Naples)

Cool,
Im in Littlefield, Tx. NW of Lubbock.
We have a ranch at Blackwell. 20 mi S of Sweetwater (Oak Creek)

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by HeavyChevy81

LOL,
No problem.
540 Gen VI BBC Marine Block
AFR 357 Heads, Ti Valves, Ti retainers, Beehive springs, CompCams girdle.
Bullet custom camshaft, Solid Roller
Callies DragonSlayer Crank, Oliver Rods, JE Pistons.
BDS 8-71 Stage 2 Blower,
2-950 Demon Supercharger carbs.
MSD 6 Digital box, MSD billet Dist.
Headers by me, from kit.
TH400 with kilgore internals, TCI T-Brake.
hughes 4000HD convertor with Billet plate.
Alston Chassisworks "battlecruiser" ladder bar rear clip.
Santhuff Shocks
etc, etc, etc.
I built everything on the truck. Engine, Trans, Chassis, Paint, Interior.
BTW, Im a Certified welder and Certified Machinist at an Electric Power Plant.

Impressed to say the least! I "built" my truck as well but I left the motor and trans to a professional but everything else I have done, nothing compared to the level of work and fabrication that you could produce. But I'm a very mechanical person and no one touches my vehicles as I obviously do it, except for major motor work or tranny rebuilds.

No offense, especially seeing idk how old you are but man I used to dream and dream for a Grandpa that knew his way around a machine shop and big motors and fast cars, my dad was but he was long done with his gear head phase by the time I came along! I just hope if you have grand kids they know how lucky they are!!! Especially seeing I have been in ALOT of "fast" cars but I have yet to park my ass on a 1000hp much less he in control. I always said as a kid if I got some serious sickness (knock on wood) and Make a Wish came and asked what mine was I told my parents I was gonna say I wanna ride in a drag car that'll do a wheelie off the line with me in the passenger seat!! Lmao I **** you not. Sorry for the small story, I'm done!

[HeavyChevy81]

no problem
i'm 49
Looking for pics of my sons truck.
355 SBC, Trick Flow twisted wedge heads.
Tunnel ram with 2 450's
Solid roller cam
11.5:1 compression
TH350, 3500 stall
4.56's in a GM 12 bolt with mini spool
Runs 11.50's on Hoosiers.
He built it in our shop. Started when he was 14. Hes now 26.