C10 pro street HELP

[Birdz85]

Let me start first by saying my name is Josh and I'm new to the board! I have been building an 85 c10 for 2 years or so now and I'm to the point in the project where I need a axle that'll handle the power I'm putting to it because the 10 bolt isn't going to like it much. Any ways I joined this forum because I'm in the market for a ford 9 inch and wanted to talk to a few or as many guys as possible as to what width their axles are and what size rim and tires, C notch? Etc etc.... I have attached a pic of my truck as well, still under construction!

[Birdz85]

Lil hopped up 355

[65standard]

If you're going pro street, any 9" will do since you have to narrow it anyways. If you're not going pro street, just upgrade to a 12-bolt. They're plentiful, cheap, and strong.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by 65standard

If you're going pro street, any 9" will do since you have to narrow it anyways. If you're not going pro street, just upgrade to a 12-bolt. They're plentiful, cheap, and strong.

I'm definitely going 9inch route, I guess my question was more as to what width were guys narrowing them to? I'm thinking about buying a nice used posi chunk and then a housing and axle kit from mouser

[65standard]

No one can give you a measurement. You need to buy your wheels and tires first, then stick them in the wheel well to get your measurements.

[Birdz85]

That's why I asked for axle width and what tires and wheels... I was planning on having custom built wheels any way and wanted to start with axle and suspension and then have wheels built for exactly what I need. I was asking for people's axle width and rim and tire size to get an idea of how narrow of an axle I'm gonna need. Maybe I was putting my cart before my horse but I'd rather finish my drive train and suspension and have the truck on rollers than my $$$$ rims and tires sitting in a dusty shop while I piece together my axle and suspension.

[Malo83]

Give these guys a call
http://currieenterprises2.reachlocal...earEndCampaign

[68c10owner]

FWIW your 10 bolt will handle that 350 no problem. Plenty of parts available for them. If you are going the pro street route then you need to pick your wheels and tires first. Then set the rearend up to fit them. Its not hard to measure this at all but you cant go by anyone else`s measurements.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

FWIW your 10 bolt will handle that 350 no problem. Plenty of parts available for them. If you are going the pro street route then you need to pick your wheels and tires first. Then set the rearend up to fit them. Its not hard to measure this at all but you cant go by anyone else`s measurements.

My lil 355 is pumping out a lil over 500, that 10 bolt won't hold unless it's fully built... Not going that route. But ok I'm gonna buy rims and tires now instead of axle and then just do a housing and axle kit and worry about a chunk at that time. Thanks for the insight guys.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Birdz85

My lil 355 is pumping out a lil over 500, that 10 bolt won't hold unless it's fully built... Not going that route. But ok I'm gonna buy rims and tires now instead of axle and then just do a housing and axle kit and worry about a chunk at that time. Thanks for the insight guys.

Whats the specs of the engine? So you dont want to build a rearend? Your planning to use stock parts? The 10 bolt in these trucks is a 8.5. A aftermarket posi or spool, aftermarket axles, welded tubes and either a c-clip eliminator or weld on 9" ends will be all you need for that. The Buick GN turbo cars used a 8.5 10 bolt too and many of them put out well over 500HP. I think you need to do some research before you start buying parts. Nothing wrong with that 10 bolt. With that said, if you are planning to narrow it down then you may as well start with a 9" but you can fit a pretty big tire back there without having to cut anything up.

[KQQL IT]

And cost the same as 9" build and still have a better piece.
Cant beat the pinion support bearing for strength.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

And cost the same as 9" build and still have a better piece.
Cant beat the pinion support bearing for strength.

I wasnt saying the 9" isnt a stronger rear end. The point I was trying to make is that his 10 bolt will handle his engine just fine with the same upgrades the 12 bolt or the 9" would need as well.

[Birdz85]

The motor is a 355 all forged internals. ( Callies crank, compstar rods, and diamond domes) 6.00 solid lift cam, fuelie heads with crane gold rollers and valve springs, performer intake and a 750 Q series. 13:1 compression I just don't want to do all that work on a 10 bolt when I could find a nice used chunk and buy a housing and axle kit for around 900 and have a 9 inch so when the truck is complete and I get gear head fever and want a bigger motor I won't have to worry about the rear end for sure. My tranny is built for 1000 hp so I'm covered there as well. This motor was built by Mike Thompson racing engines down here in south FL. It's nothing to crazy but for a 23 year old with a house and family I feel I'm doing ok lol

[J Knight]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

And cost the same as 9" build and still have a better piece.
Cant beat the pinion support bearing for strength.

Im with KQQL IT. If your going to build a rear end from scratch, I wouldn't spend a dime on a 10 or 12 bolt truck rear end, maybe a 12 bolt car rear end but other than that you might as well build a 9in for the same $$$ and have a much stronger rear end.

I can give you measurements on my truck based off my wheel and tire combo but if you are going with a different combo it will be meaningless. I have 15x14 rims with 4.5in back space and 29/18.5/15 Hoosier Pro Street radials. My stock leaf springs are moved inside the frame and up 3in. Axle is mounted above the leafs and frame is c-notched. My 9in housing is 47in wide and rear end fully assembled is 52.5in from wheel mounting surface to wheel mount surface.

I would suggest buying the wheels and tires you want first, mock them in place then measure to get your rear end cut to fit. That is much easier than and cheaper than measuring for a wheel with an oddball back space or measuring wrong and the wheels don't fit.

[68c10owner]

Again, the point of my post which seems to be missed is that the OP claimed the 10 bolt would not handle his engine. Regardless of what he uses it will have to be upgraded, even a stock 31 spline 9". for strength you cant beat the 9". That is not what I was saying.

J Knight, good looking truck. Might consider doing that set up on my 85. Always loved the pro street look.

[J Knight]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

Again, the point of my post which seems to be missed is that the OP claimed the 10 bolt would not handle his engine. Regardless of what he uses it will have to be upgraded, even a stock 31 spline 9". for strength you cant beat the 9". That is not what I was saying.

J Knight, good looking truck. Might consider doing that set up on my 85. Always loved the pro street look.

Thanks 68, My point was not directed at your post, My point is that it cost the SAME MONEY to build a 10 bolt, 12 bolt, or a 9in to the level the OP stated. You might as well spend your money on the 9in and have a real rear end.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by J Knight

Thanks 68, My point was not directed at your post, My point is that it cost the SAME MONEY to build a 10 bolt, 12 bolt, or a 9in to the level the OP stated. You might as well spend your money on the 9in and have a real rear end.

Thank you!! This is exactly what I was thinking or should I say knew..?? But I'm glad I stand corrected on how to go about putting this rear end together. Looks like I'll be saving a lil more money for rims and tires. I wanna do a pro street look with a modern twist. Like a 22x14 out back with a 20x9 up front. Nothing that hasn't been done but it's a look I do like.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Birdz85

Thank you!! This is exactly what I was thinking or should I say knew..??

Hold on there bud. You claimed the original 10 bolt would not hold the power which is wrong. I corrected that but no where did I say anything about costs. I even mentioned that if you were planning to cut something down to start with a 9" so dont start making your hat fit tighter. Your getting a little cocky about the wrong thing. You posted a question, you didnt like being corrected. Not my fault. Good luck.

[andrewmp6]

I would like to see a dyno sheet,I don't see a 355 making over 400hp unless your spraying it big time.The other thing is big wheels with rubber band tires will never hold enough traction to break a 10 bolt.If you throw a set of real slicks on it and push it hard you might break the 10 bolt but thats a hard might.

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

I would like to see a dyno sheet,I don't see a 355 making over 400hp unless your spraying it big time.The other thing is big wheels with rubber band tires will never hold enough traction to break a 10 bolt.If you throw a set of real slicks on it and push it hard you might break the 10 bolt but thats a hard might.

Have you ever been around performance engines? 500hp from a 355 is tough but doable. He has a lot of compression and that helps. .600 lift roller cam means nothing because he didn't post duration specs or if anything is don't to the fuelie heads which are hiding this engine way back along with the dual plane intake. Agree traction will be a issue

[KQQL IT]

I will say if you don't hook it, you will never break it.
Traction and wheel hop violence break stuff.
Burnouts wont.

[SkinnyG]

^^^^ What he said.

"If you don't break traction, you'll break something else."

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

I would like to see a dyno sheet,I don't see a 355 making over 400hp unless your spraying it big time.The other thing is big wheels with rubber band tires will never hold enough traction to break a 10 bolt.If you throw a set of real slicks on it and push it hard you might break the 10 bolt but thats a hard might.

You don't see a 355 making over 400 with out spray?? Lmao what rock have you been under? You prolly haven't seen a 454 small block either huh? Lol anyways the big rims and rubber bands came with the truck when I bought it with a 305... Hence the reason I'm going to pro street it since it's still under construction like I said. With that said those fuelie heads are the biggest thing holding that motor back. It started life as a circle track motor and couldn't run aluminum heads. Builder said next time I freshen it up go to aluminum heads, matching roller cam and intake and I'll be in the 600s. Everything I've done so far has been built with more power in mind down the road. But 500 hp from a 350 isn't hard nor is it uncommon. Especially with that kind of compression.

[Birdz85]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

Hold on there bud. You claimed the original 10 bolt would not hold the power which is wrong. I corrected that but no where did I say anything about costs. I even mentioned that if you were planning to cut something down to start with a 9" so dont start making your hat fit tighter. Your getting a little cocky about the wrong thing. You posted a question, you didnt like being corrected. Not my fault. Good luck.

Like being corrected??? By saying that I knew not to dump a **** load of money and work into a 10 bolt when I could dump that same money in a 9 inch and have a stronger and easier axle?? No ones head is getting big here bud..... It's pretty much common sense... No? I don't know where you got offended, I'm not dummy I know a 10 bolt would hold my baby motor but with way more work and money I want to throw at a 10 bolt... Kind of like a turbo civic making 800 hp at the end of the day you still have a civic...

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by Birdz85

Like being corrected??? By saying that I knew not to dump a **** load of money and work into a 10 bolt when I could dump that same money in a 9 inch and have a stronger and easier axle?? No ones head is getting big here bud..... It's pretty much common sense... No? I don't know where you got offended, I'm not dummy I know a 10 bolt would hold my baby motor but with way more work and money I want to throw at a 10 bolt... Kind of like a turbo civic making 800 hp at the end of the day you still have a civic...

It would cost no more money to build the 10 bolt than the 12 bolt or the 9" and it would be plenty strong. I honestly dont see you making enough power to break the 10 bolt but thats just me. I honestly dont care what rearend you use. It`s your money. I was just trying to correct the mis-information you were putting out there for whoever comes across this thread and thinks their rearend wont work because this guy says so.