No Limit Pro-C10 chassis/truck build

[Custom 68]

Stunning! Excellent work as expected.

[Andy4639]

Chris putting that under his old C10 are is it for a customer?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Chris putting that under his old C10 are is it for a customer?

This is for one of his customers. But, we are building a chassis for his black GMC soon.

[robnolimit]

OK< we got our project chassis back from powder coat and have most of the assembly done.

*** If we powdercoat a complete chassis, there is a "re-assembly fee". To start with we completely assemble a chassis so that we know that everything fits and lines up. To powdercoat, we first have to diss-assemble the entire chassis, bushings, ball joints, every nut and bolt. Then, we have to put it all back together. So, we feel that a $300 fee for this is more than fair. It takes a skilled guy about 9 hrs total to do this. ***

*** All chassis include brake line plumbing. Fuel line plumbing is an option. this chassis has two lines, for eventual EFI. For now, in Carb form, we will only use one.

The motor mount truss plate system is really cool. The truss adds a ton of strength to the main front crossmember, as well as mount locations for the modular upper mounts. The 'interface' mount set then bolts to the truss plate, and accepts standard Chevy side mounts. With this system, motor position can be changed by only changing the interface mounts. And, these accept, SBC, BBC, and LSX.

[1971_c10]

Rob, this is some awesome looking chassis work. I think I need to give you guys a call. I've got a '71 stepside I'm looking to do some major suspension surgery on, and I've been looking around at full chassis setups and yours has caught my eye. Would love to know how a stepside would sit on one of your chassis.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 1971_c10

Rob, this is some awesome looking chassis work. I think I need to give you guys a call. I've got a '71 stepside I'm looking to do some major suspension surgery on, and I've been looking around at full chassis setups and yours has caught my eye. Would love to know how a stepside would sit on one of your chassis.

Thanks very much. Step sides use the same cab/core/bumper mounts (even the same bed mount points) as fleet sides, so the fitment is no problem. Visually, steps are a bit higher off the ground behind the back tire. On the plus side, it's much easier to raise the bed floor on a step side vs. a fleet side. So running a raised rail chassis to get the truck lower is easier. It would be sweet. let us know if we can help.

[rpone605]

It's interesting how similar the X frame is to the OEM one in my 62 frame. I am assuming this X is smaller than then one on my chassis.

[robnolimit]

More progress. These are cool picts. Engine and trans in, driveshaft going in, exhaust in, tank in. getting ready for sheet metal.

[robnolimit]

It's moving day. At first, I took a few moments to form up some new trans cooler lines. - much easier with the cab off. Then a new set of urethane cab mounts, and we're ready to. We pulled the doors, column, seat and OE tank out of the cab to cut some weight. Then it was six guys and some careful lifting walking and placement. It sat right down on the mounts, and all four bolts dropped in. Jay had the cab squared in about 25 minutes. ** I'd like to point out, that the chassis is sitting level, so that when we put the body together, we're not trying to shim to level for nothing. ** BTW, No shims were required to set the rockers level. Engine and valve cover clearance is great. No trans tunnel mods required.

[duallyjams]

Really like to see a detail install on placing the steering column.

[Advanced Design]

Those are very cool pic's. A work of art!

[smbrouss70]

Looks great! I can't wait to see more.

[andrewmp6]

Rob if i ever win the lottery I'm coming to see you with a suitcase full of money.

[robnolimit]

Steering install.
We use the new IDITIT 'short' C10 column that was designed (with help from No Limit) to be used with rack an pinion installs on 63-72 C10's (they are also adding this option to 73-87 columns). You should use this column with any rack IFS. No Limit WideRide IFS, No Limit C10 Rack, TCI, Porterbuilt, Roadster Shop,..... Life will be easier. It's worth the money. Don't buy a cheap column.

These columns install in the truck just like a stock column. Simply unbolt the sock column and bolt this one back in. They use the same hardware and mounts. See, worth the money.

I like to have a slip shaft, like GM, just in case you T-bone someone one day, or get sideways into a wall. It could happen. So, the U-Joint parts are as follows. Upper UJ is 3/4-36 spline (column) x 1" DD (hollow slip shaft). Lower UJ is 3/4-36 spline (rack)(WideRide IFS, others may have different spline count) x 3/4"DD (solid shaft). The hollow shaft is 1" DD and the solid shaft is 3/4" DD. These parts are all available at No Limit, and also Summit and Speedway. Buy quality U-Joints, Borgeson or Flaming River. It's your life here.

Make sure to "Center" the rack and column before connecting the U-joints and shaft. To center the column, put the horn peg in the 10:30 position. This will have it in the middle of the turn sig. cancel range. For the rack, center it in the travel left and right.

[smbrouss70]

This is all good info, and I am glad that ididit is working with y'all to make columns that work better with aftermarket setups.

One question though, under normal operation, how much 3/4" shaft should be inside of the 1" shaft for sturdy and reliable engagement, and how much room for collapse would be sufficient?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

This is all good info, and I am glad that ididit is working with y'all to make columns that work better with aftermarket setups.

One question though, under normal operation, how much 3/4" shaft should be inside of the 1" shaft for sturdy and reliable engagement, and how much room for collapse would be sufficient?

I would say 3" of overlap is a minimum. This gives you about 3" of slip room in a crash.

[Advanced Design]

A direct bolt in is definatley worth more as opposed to several hours of fabrication. Great feature!

The intermediate shaft is very straightforward too.

Thanks for continuing to share.

[robnolimit]

OK, I forgot to point this out. Flaming River and Borgeson U-Joints both spec a max of 30 degrees of angle change. With this set up, the column to shaft angle is 28 degrees, so we are getting close to the max here. During the install, take the time to carefull rotate the steering column/u-joint/shaft assembly and check for any binding. Even though we are under spec, we found a light contact point during the rotation. This will wear the U-joint and bearings. A light touch with a 80 grit roloc disk will sand away the contacting material and there is no problem. Another solution is to lower the firewall mount slightly if needed. FYI - Always check steering clearance.

[duallyjams]

Thanks for the details on the steering but I'm sure you have some more updates by now hint hint.

[Hammered 77]

Rob, in using Borgeson u-joints will you notice much vibration in the steering or are you using their anti vibration u-joint?

Rick

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Hammered 77

Rob, in using Borgeson u-joints will you notice much vibration in the steering or are you using their anti vibration u-joint?

Rick

I don't use many of the Vibration Dampeners. On all of the builds in the last few years, I would say that the J.T. is the 'loosest' built. It doesn't have any steering shake, at least any that I wouldn't want. If the tire is getting cupped, or the shock is too tight, I want to know. Otherwise, there isn't any noticeable vibration. On the better built trucks, like Wes D's or Marcell's, C10, where the body's got more attention and they are a little tighter, they have no vibration at all. Now, on Tina's 65 Mustang, we used one at the rack, just for good measure, as the goal was a car that felt 'Mercedes smooth'. We also mounted the column in a urethane isolater, both at the dash and the floor. So, it just depends what your building I guess.

[Hammered 77]

Thanks Rob, I'm still using the original rag joint that came on my 77' C-10 when I bought it new in 1977. I know I could buy a new rag joint but would rather go with the u-joint. Would you suggest upper and lower like you used or just the one to replace the rag joint with one?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Hammered 77

Thanks Rob, I'm still using the original rag joint that came on my 77' C-10 when I bought it new in 1977. I know I could buy a new rag joint but would rather go with the u-joint. Would you suggest upper and lower like you used or just the one to replace the rag joint with one?

I would do both, the upper and lower. The OE upper isn't a very smooth operating unit, kinda chunky. The steering will feel a lot cleaner with two.

[robnolimit]

More progress. The doors are back on. We pulled the doors for a few reasons. 1) it makes the cab a lot lighter to move around, and 2) it makes it a lot easier to work inside the cab fot the column and wiring work.

Before we pulled the doors - they were in pretty good alignment - we drill a 1/8" alignment hole in each hinge and through the A-pillar. When it's time to re-hang the door, it's very easy to hit the same spot. Just hang the door, put the hardware in loose, then move it around until the holes line up - we use small pieces of 1/8" TIG rod as dowel pins. This may not give you the perfect fit, but it will get you back to where they were very quickly.

[robnolimit]

Our customer decided to upgrade the front drive while things are apart. That slowed us down a bit waiting for parts, but we have plenty to do. The March Ultra Drive is a nice piece. No doubt about it. I was missing a few bolts, and the tensioner bracket is going to make it tough to run the mechanical fuel pump. So, add another change, I guess we'll go electric. The good news is that we already ran a fuel pump wire as we were planning for a future EFI set up.