No Limit Pro-C10 chassis/truck build

[robnolimit]

As we have had a ton of questions about the new designed chassis, this should be a great showcase of the build and install process.

We have a customer with a nice, clean, '70 SWB. It has a BBC and a TH350. He has had this truck for a long time, and wants it to drive like a newer car/truck.

** He does NOT want to raise the bed floor (so we will use OE height rear rails). But he does want a 5"/7" drop, and will be running Schot 22" wheels. He has sent us picts of trucks that he likes, and also of the wheel lip setback and stance. Our goal is to be able to deliver the chassis/truck that he wants.

For our Pro-C10 chassis, we can choose between two front rail sets, two rear rail set, stock or dropped spindles, two lengths of A-arms, and three different standard housing widths.

What KD wants is right in the middle of two sets. So, we will use OE spec rails front and rear, stock height spindles, 1 1/4" + front A-arms, 62" rear housing, and 5" stroke rear shocks. IF, when we are all done, the truck needs to drop a bit more, we will swap to 2" dropped front spindles, and a 4.2" rear coil-over.

Here is Jay laying up the rail sets in the fixture. We pre build rails in big batches, these are 3/16" P/O steel on the sides, and 10 ga. (.134") top and bottom. These are fixture built with spacers and bridges to keep them true. The front and rear rails are joined on by a section of 2" x 6" x .120 wall tubing. All parts are fitted and bolted into the fixture before any welding.

The dark red truck in the background is the project truck.

[Custom 68]

In for the ride!

[robnolimit]

One of the first things we do on a custom chassis order is to sort out the wheel/tire combo and backspace. This can be very confusing, and can also be a 'make or break' portion of the build. There really is no need for spacers, or the expense of having wheels re-set. To help with this, we provide each customer with a wheel spec sheet like this.

[SCOTI]

I'll be following this one. Thanks for taking the time to allow us a peek @ how things SHOULD be done.

[darkhorse970]

I'm in

[robnolimit]

The first items to into the rail sets are the big pieces. Starting at the back, the rear two crossmembers go in. not the porting in the rear rails. These allow access for the bed mounts, fuel tank mounts and bumper mounts. In the middle of the chassis is the X member. This is a four piece assembly that bolts together first, and then is fitted and welded into place. The exhaust ports are 4" diameter. There are also ports on the ends of the X rails to allow for brake line, fuel line, and wiring, without going 'over' or 'under' the chassis. Moving forward the WideRide IFS crossmember is set into place in the front rails, and finally, the front core support crossmember is set and tacked in. All of this is checked to be square and level, and then some welding is done.

We weld these in sections at a time. It takes about three days to build a chassis up to the point where it is ready to come out of the fixture, so as the build goes on, sections are welded over time. This reduces any heat stress and possible warping/shifting due to the weld process.

[robnolimit]

Once the main chassis is tacked in the fixture, some of the welding is done. We do this in sections so that we don't over stress any one area. This process is the key to having the chassis stay square for years to come.

For each of the mounted components we have a set-up fixture that is bolted to the main fixture and then to the part that it is locating. Typically we start at the back and move forward. Rear coil-over mounts, #3 and #4 bed stands, rear FatBar mounts, rear cab mounts, front cab mounts, and then front core support and front bumper mounts. Our goal is to do as much of the fab and welding as possible while the chassis is bolted in the fixture. We check every chassis that comes out for square and level. So far, every chassis has been less than 1/16" out on the cross measure (so +/- .032") and within 0.100 degree off plane. The majority of Pro-C10 chassis come out 'perfect', at least as far as we can tell.

[Hart_Rod]

Looks like it's going to be sweet build!

[robnolimit]

While the chassis is being built, the rear axle prep is also happening. Based on the info from our tire spec sheet we choose the correct width rear axle to fit the customers needs. We commonly stock 58", 60", 61", and 62" housing and axle sets. These are all new Moser HD tube 9" housings with 31 spline axles, sealed bearing pack and 1/2" stud. The normal C10 is 5 x 5", but we can do 5 x 4 3/4". - sorry, still no 6 lug (no front match). All housings include a fill and drain, and use 'late model' big bearing ends, with a 2 1/2" offset.

The FatBar mounts, coil-over mounts and panhard rod mounts are set into a fixture and then welded to the housings. The housing are then checkec, and re-straightened if needed.

[robnolimit]

Once all of the work 'in' the fixture is done, the chassis is pulled from the fixture and re-set in upside down. This way we are still holding it square to weld and finish the underside. Then the chassis is ready for assembly.

** This is where our project starts to deviate from the standard build.** We will now fit the eng/trans and run the exhaust, and prep for powder coat. This will save some time and hassle down the road. We use actual iron/aluminum engines and transmissions for mock ups. No plastic, it moves a little bit. Here is our BBC and TH350 to match the customers truck.

[AldoWelds]

Beautiful work so far!! I want to get a chassis table so bad we just don't have the room for it at the moment.

[Advanced Design]

Been quietly tagging along enjoying the daily updates. Quality work is a joy to see.

[robnolimit]

As we said, before we send this out for powder coating, we wanted to run the exhaust, and fit in all of the other mounts. The Customer supplied a set of Sanderson headers, and we hoped they would fit (a risky move) - and they do. The drivers side has room for the steering and is pointed a bit away from the oil filter. It does point 'down' a bit more than I like, but fits pretty good. The passenger side is a nice fit, and points 'back' a little more. The upside here is that we can add this set of headers to the list of what we know to fit. That's a win for everyone. The exhaust will be a simple set of 2 1/2" duals with Black Widow mufflers.

We have two 'normal' approaches for exhaust. Start with straight sticks and bend it in an exhaust bender (bend-pak) - that closes the tubes a bit, or, start with a mix of stainless tubing and mandrel 'J' bends and fit it up. - that is not for the faint of heart. SO, for this build, one of the guys in the shop suggested that we use a Speedway Motors exhaust kit ($149.00) and see what it would be like for a guy at home with minimal tools. OK, that's the plan. More to come soon.

[chase@ridetech]

looking good!

[robnolimit]

Here is the front section laid out. We started by setting the straight tubes though the chassis ports and then using some 90's and 45's from the kit and cutting them up to make the transitions.

[Dustmaker65]

This is very cool to see!

Thanks for including us on this build!

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Dustmaker65

This is very cool to see!

Thanks for including us on this build!

Thanks.

[robnolimit]

Here are a few tips that can help any fabricator. When plumbing exhaust through a port, like in a dropped C10 crossmember, you can use some cuts of heater hose to suspend the tubing in the center port. this save a few extra hands, and a lot of headaches. Next, we usually use some scrap lumber (we have a stash from crating chassis and IFS stubs) to make up a muffler stand. This is just a piece of plywood with a couple of 2x4 scraps screwed to it. We make them snug to the inside of the frame rails, so it doesn't move around. This helps locate the mufflers nice and level and even. Again, it hold them where we want them, and makes the plumbing job easier.

[robnolimit]

One final decision, is 'Over', or 'Under' the axle. If this truck was going to be on coil-overs, we would have gone over the axle. But, we are using Shockwaves, and they need a bit more room, so we decided to go under. The Mock up bars on the rear suspension are holding the rear axle at ride height, so we use a spacer to set the tubing under the axle with clearance for full droop. One benefit with this plan is that the exhaust can be removed without dis-assembling the rear suspension, just drop it out.

[rpone605]

Nice tips!

Thanks for sharing with those of us who are novices here.

[duallyjams]

Dream come true

[biketopia]

Bad freaking ass!!

[TexasLS1]

Originally Posted by biketopia

Bad freaking ass!!

I second that. I've learned a lot from your posts, Rob. Looking forward to following this one...

[Adam Moyers]

Anymore updates?

Thanks

[robnolimit]

Sorry guys. Been too busy to post lately. The C10 chassis market is exploding. We are on our third run (10 per run) already, and have gone to cut/formed parts on cab and bed mounts to save time. Here are some picts of a chassis that we just finished. It's heading up to Smitty's in Ohio.