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Old 10-16-2003, 10:21 PM   #26
Kid
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I agree with ya Fuelcellguy the rubber insulation is needed, not only to absorb vibrations/tweaks, but I am sure you also know that aluminum & steel are dismmilar metals, and will corrode if allowed to be in contact with each other. I'll bet that 5052 is easy to bend with that 40 ton press brake (seen yer shop pictures). Nice shop. I envy your tool inventory

for Blue68, no my tank is not DOT approved, I don't know of any aftermarket tank that is, including "JAZ" racing fuel cells
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Old 10-16-2003, 11:29 PM   #27
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i installed a 32 gal tank from like and 85 blazer and put the door on out side i had to do some stuff to the frame, it works great and hangs a bout as low as those fuel cell pics...... there is a tech article on the 67-72chevytrucks web site on a similar tank.
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Old 10-17-2003, 11:36 AM   #28
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we used to sand a cross grain on the 5052 to bend it without cracking.
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Old 10-29-2003, 11:04 PM   #29
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I really like the idea of these fuel cells, but what's going to happen to the tank and the filler when your sliding stuff in and out of the bed? I'd like to do something like this on the truck that I don't own yet...but I also intend to use the truck and am a little concerned. I guess you could cut a little access door in the bed and leave the filler under it. Any comments?
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Old 10-29-2003, 11:15 PM   #30
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Kevncar, On my 71 & my 68, I put the filler cap assy. in the rear of the drivers side wheel well about 1" up from the bottom. That way you can still fill up with a full load of plywood or what ever. Not as fancy as the side marker fill ( deleted these on my 68) but a simple instl. and no unsightly door on the outside of body.
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Old 10-30-2003, 01:01 PM   #31
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kevncar, what you'll find from folks that have a filler in the bed is one of two general setups. Either a straight shot through the bed floor. When going this route, it is best to have a cutout door flush with the bed and then a filler cap under it. It's important to have the cover to keep debris out of the tank. The other approach is the build a filler door in the inside behind the wheel wheel hump and attach it to the inner bed wall somehow. Both approaches CAN cause concern if you make long hauls and need to refuel when hauling a bed full of stuff. Otherwise, keep your hauls short or your load flexible.
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Old 10-30-2003, 06:45 PM   #32
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A little off topic but I was thinking of putting two small saddle tanks into my shortbed. I think it may be a bit more expensive to do but the load is between the wheels instead of out back and there would be nothing hanging down. Fuel filler would be easier to do also. Anybody done this...?
I have saddles on my long bed..just never seen anyone do it on a short bed.
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Old 10-31-2003, 09:05 AM   #33
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Saddle tanks...

I measures for some saddle tanks once and I think one could only get about 10-11 gallons of capacity out of each tank. It can be done pretty easily. You would need to filler necks or other way to fill and a diverter valve to switch tanks. Later, FuelCellGuy
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Old 11-24-2003, 04:23 PM   #34
jbw0127
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Fuelcellguy question.

Interested in one of your tanks. First....does the $325 include all filler hardware (ie..fill cap, hoses, etc.)....and second, what keeps the tank from shifting forwards or aft during acceleration or braking?

Appreciate the info.
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Old 11-24-2003, 06:38 PM   #35
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Lightbulb

I did a 31? gallon tank in my 68 longbed. I have a little tech and picture page on my non-updated website: www.geocities.com/cst68chevy and click on gas tank conversion.
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