Things to avoid when buying a C10?

[ken4444]

Originally Posted by Already Gone

..Here an example of real nice truck that is on EBay now with a "Buy it Now" price of 17,500.00 which I'm sure there is a little wiggle room on the price...

That's a great looking truck. I'd feel guilty using it as a daily driver

Originally Posted by el_fantasma

I guess looking at the wheel base on the SPID, glove box label, is the most obvious. 127 inches means it was originally a long bed. Then ask yourself if it matters.

Ah, okay. Great suggestion.

[1968aj]

RUST is the deal killer for me. anything else is just part swapping. if it is rusted around windshield or if kick panel vent area is bad I would avoid it

[truckster]

Originally Posted by TwoFiftyShifter

If it's done well, what's the issue? It's a way to bargain if you can spot it, but how much less is it worth really? Is it like finding someone passing off a 307 Malibu for a 350 SS?

I think it's more akin to passing off a SS clone as an original. As long as the seller is honest about what's been done, I don't see a problem with it.

[Coley]

Originally Posted by truckster

I think it's more akin to passing off a SS clone as an original. As long as the seller is honest about what's been done, I don't see a problem with it.

Agreed.
Although it seems like many sellers don't want to draw attention (if at all) to it being a modified/shortened long bed.
If its done well, the seller doesn't have too much to fear except a bit of cost reduction relative to an original short bed....but its always best to be up front about it.
However, the buyers (on the other side of the equation) might get spooked if they don't know the quality of the work done on such an important and valuable piece of the truck...the frame.

C.

[Ontcalimo]

Also, this should be factored in. If one does not have the three criteria listed below for restoration, stay away from any C10.

1. Time
2. Money
3. Patience

[tutone]

Originally Posted by Coley

Its interesting about watching for and checking for 'shortened' long beds that been cut down.
A lot of guys have done this...and are doing it all the time and probably want relatively big money for the net result of their work.
This begs the question....does this modification devalue the truck?...and based on some of the feedback so far....it might.


Coley

In my opinion, not that it matters, but Yes and No about devaluation. I feel like in most cases, cutting down a $1500 long bed does not hurt a thing. I am doing one right now, but in a different light, maybe cutting a $20,000 Super Cheyenne with a BB would be criminal. The OP asked about what to look for in the conversion and I would not only take the truck to a trusted mechanic and have a good going over done, but if its been shortened, I would also drive it to a certified welder and make sure the frame is welded properly and reinforced if needed. I certified years ago but I have not kept the certification. I will have my weld inspected when I finish it, just in case . Oh yeah the emergency brake cable is shorter too. Some one else may have mentioned it.

[ken4444]

Originally Posted by tutone

.. The OP asked about what to look for in the conversion ...

My intent was to learn about things to look for and avoid when buying a C10, and then there was some discussion about a long wheelbase being shortened to short.

Here's a list of all of the suggestions so far:

Problems or facts to be aware of:

A points distributor
Play in the steering system
Gas tank inside the cab
Is the motor and trans rebuilt, or oily filthy dirty
Wiring is chopped up?
Take it for a ride and notice the handling and any sounds

Look for rust in these areas:

Floors, rockers, doors, cab, box, cab mounts, A pillars, roof, kick panel vent area, firewall, area around the master brake cyl, corners and bottoms of doors, door jams, tailgate bottom, wheel well edges, under the battery by the radiator support, frame rail the connecting points with all the cross rails, trailing arms, rockers, cab corners, cab floor on the inside and out, above/around the windshield, back window, dash area, and tarred (undercoated) underside hiding rust.

LWB to SWB conversions:

Look for cut and welded frames.
Read the SPID (glove box label) 127 inches means it was originally a long bed.

Positive items:

71 and 72 had front disk brakes standard
C10 parts easily available.

Other items:

Have plenty of time, money, patience


Thank you again to everyone who chimed in. That's a lot of collective experience!