Things to avoid when buying a C10?

[ken4444]

Hello there! I am looking for a 67 to 72 SWB C10 to restore to be a daily driver. When looking at trucks, are there any problems specific to this generation of trucks that I should avoid? For example, are there some parts that are difficult, impossible, or really expensive to buy used or new?

Thanks!

[LongBox]

Two things: these trucks were designed to rust, so be real careful with things like cab mounts, A pillars, the roof, and so on.

The other thing is that pretty well anything you'd ever want or need to restore or modify these trucks is available out there.

If you want a truck to drive, I'd concentrate on the 71 and 72s, as they had disk brakes standard.

[truckster]

Based on what I'm most comfortable with, I favor a solid body over mechanical considerations. Look really carefully for rust, especially if the truck has been repainted.

[ken4444]

Thanks to everyone who replied!

Originally Posted by LongBox

..The other thing is that pretty well anything you'd ever want or need to restore or modify these trucks is available out there.

That's great to know, and I am not surprised. I was doing some research on prices for body panels and other common parts and pleased to see the prices are very reasonable.

Originally Posted by LongBox

If you want a truck to drive, I'd concentrate on the 71 and 72s, as they had disk brakes standard.

If needed, I assume there are various options for converting front drum brakes to disk brakes that aren't too expensive?

Originally Posted by truckster

Based on what I'm most comfortable with, I favor a solid body over mechanical considerations. Look really carefully for rust, especially if the truck has been repainted.

Good to know. I have seen more than one vehicle where a pretty paint job was hiding rust. Two years down the line the bubbles in the paint only mean one thing...

[joeydurango]

Just remember, when you're adding up what you think it will cost to get your project rolling, take your final number and double it, especially if this is your first older vehicle.

I agree with the above - look carefully for rust and if you're handy with a wrench, these trucks are easy to work on, so a solid body makes more sense than anything else for your dollar (within reason).

Also, since you're looking for a SWB, know that as they get rarer, more people are cutting down LWB trucks to drive or sell as SWB. Look for cut and welded frames.

Good luck and have fun!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

The only problem on these trucks is a points distributor. Just kidding, sorta.

Good chance the steering has some play if it's original. I don't know much about it, but seems to me the steering box is the likely culprit. You can buy those or have what you've got restored.

Other than rust as mentioned (e.g., window frame), disc brakes is a good one too.........I can't think of a real downside. Some prefer the gas tank be outside the cab

[ken4444]

Originally Posted by joeydurango

Just remember, when you're adding up what you think it will cost to get your project rolling, take your final number and double it, especially if this is your first older vehicle.

This would be my second older project vehicle. I am comfortable with welding, body work, and general mechanic work.

Originally Posted by joeydurango

Also, since you're looking for a SWB, know that as they get rarer, more people are cutting down LWB trucks to drive or sell as SWB. Look for cut and welded frames.

Good point. I have seen one such truck, but luckily it was listed as having been cut down. Any SWB truck I examine, I'll have to check the frame carefully for shortening.

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

..Good chance the steering has some play if it's original. I don't know much about it, but seems to me the steering box is the likely culprit. You can buy those or have what you've got restored.

Okay. good to know. I can see that loose steering could be caused by a worn steering box, old steering shaft, worn tie rod ends, or worn ball joints. These are all reminders of the cost of such a project I could probably spend $750 just to get the thing to steer right.

[GASoline71]

If you want a true original short bed... always check the frame just under the cab for welds where a long bed has been cut down to a short bed and welded back together. It's really common nowadays for a seller to claim a cut down long bed is an original short bed.

Gary

[NGN]

good ? to ask. I wish I gave more thought to that then when I bought my truck that I been into for all these past years. well this is me, I like both long bed and short but, I wanted a short bed. Funny how I keep finding shorts but they were far beyond what I wanted to repair. How's your skills, time and allowance? I'm more mechanical and the help of friends, then there's body work but I'll give it a shot when the time comes and also with the help of friends.Then there's money, parts, equipment needed, a place to do your thing and alot can be done in a driveway, yard, and with the help of good site's like this one. What you don't know you can learn. I liked my truck as soon I seen it and, I over looked what was under the paint. I would avoid anything overly tarred (undercoated) If I would have seen the coming out of rust that was hiding, which is now showing through. The paint was aged but looked good and over time things started showing up.
Know what you want, a truck that's completely done, nothing to do just drive and general maintenance or a project. Avoid rust, and poor repairs in the rockers, cab corners, cab floor on the inside and out above and around the windshield same with the back window, look at the firewall, area around the master brake cyl , corners and bottoms of doors, door jams up, down all around, tailgate bottom , wheel well edges in out all around , under the battery by the radiator support , frame rail the connecting points with all the cross rails, trailing arms.
Is the motor and trans rebuilt or oily filthy dirty .
how the wire's in the engine compartment under the dash or anywhere underneath the truck, is it all chopped up?
Take it for a ride, does it handle good listen for sounds how's the shocks, what work been done to all and anything.
Hope I stayed on topic, I'm sure more will chime in, this is a great site for info.
Also, all that was said already is great advice. But,,, them 67-70 with good proper drum brakes are not bad either and a little better with the power brake set up.
Nick

[ken4444]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

If you want a true original short bed... always check the frame just under the cab for welds where a long bed has been cut down to a short bed and welded back together..

Other than the frame, what other modifications are required to shorten a long wheelbase C10? Shorten the bed, shorter driveshaft, shorten the wiring harness, exhaust, and anything else?

I suppose the most obvious sign of shortening would be the frame.

[ken4444]

Originally Posted by NGN

good ? to ask. I wish I gave more thought to that then when I bought my truck that I been into for all these past years...

That's a long list of stuff to check, but probably worth doing before handing over a bunch of money. I think people get caught up in the excitement of wanting a new vehicle and might tend to rush an inspection and cut corners. Then as the weeks or months pass, you end up discovering a bunch of problems. How many projects started off with basic goals but turned into a more lengthy and expensive batch of work because more problems became apparent?

[NGN]

Yeah that's what I wanted to say. LOL
Nick

[Coley]

In my opinion...there are 3 things to avoid with these trucks when you are getting your first truck
1) Rust in the cab or the box
2) A cab with rust or a box with rust
3) A rusty box or a rusty cab.
....after that, I think it gets easier....and perhaps cheaper....lol.
Seriously tho'...a lot of this will depend as much on you as the truck you might choose.
In other words...where are your skills at? what level is your work space and your tool group at?
do you have a spouse/wife and are they on board with this?....and very importantly...what is your '1st year' budget and what would you like your first 3-6 months of truck ownership to look like?
These will have a great bearing on the type of advice that might be useful.
all good
Coley

[ken4444]

Originally Posted by Coley

...Rust in the cab or the box...what level is your work space and your tool group at..

All good points.

Honestly, I don't know how to properly deal with a box with a heavily rusted floor. Can one get new just replacement floor bottom? I can see the risk of replacing the bottom of a truck box is that the thing could get out-of-square pretty quick. It would have to be braced with cross braces temporarily while the bottom was removed.

As far as working space, it will be tight. I will have to get my wife to give up her half of the (2 car) garage if I remove the body parts from the frame. This would motivate me to work more quickly and get the body back on. I would build a paint booth inside the garage if I had to paint the thing.

Tool-wise, I have many tools for body work and general mechanical work.

Budget-wise, I would commit to a bunch of cash expenses to see the project through, expecting to spend more than what I initially figured.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by ken4444

Other than the frame, what other modifications are required to shorten a long wheelbase C10? Shorten the bed, shorter driveshaft, shorten the wiring harness, exhaust, and anything else?

I suppose the most obvious sign of shortening would be the frame.

The only thing that will be obvious is the frame. Unless they go to great lengths to grind it all smooth and put some kind of coating over it.

Everything else will just look like a normal short bed.

Gary

[Coley]

Its interesting about watching for and checking for 'shortened' long beds that been cut down.
A lot of guys have done this...and are doing it all the time and probably want relatively big money for the net result of their work.
This begs the question....does this modification devalue the truck?...and based on some of the feedback so far....it might.


Coley

[TwoFiftyShifter]

If it's done well, what's the issue? It's a way to bargain if you can spot it, but how much less is it worth really? Is it like finding someone passing off a 307 Malibu for a 350 SS?

[ken4444]

Originally Posted by Coley

..This begs the question....does this modification devalue the truck?...and based on some of the feedback so far....it might.

Originally Posted by TwoFiftyShifter

If it's done well, what's the issue? It's a way to bargain if you can spot it, but how much less is it worth really? Is it like finding someone passing off a 307 Malibu for a 350 SS?

As long as the buyer knows what he/she is getting, then OK. However there is always that stigma of knowing the truck was altered in this way and isn't original in that regard. For a truck that's going to undergo a lot of big changes then maybe a shortened frame isn't a huge deal. Some people are more purists than others.

[rob32472]

Most every one of these trucks by now have rust in the floors, rockers, and doors know that going in. Stay away from rust in the roof, windshield, and dash areas. Most everything is available for these trucks as reproduction parts. Happy Hunting

[boraxman]

I myself would avoid long beds made into short beds... especially if youre paying decent money.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by ken4444

Okay. good to know. I can see that loose steering could be caused by a worn steering box, old steering shaft, worn tie rod ends, or worn ball joints. These are all reminders of the cost of such a project I could probably spend $750 just to get the thing to steer right.

While true, what do you get for $750 on a newer truck? That would buy a starter installed on my 05 Tundra.

[ken4444]

Originally Posted by rob32472

Most every one of these trucks by now have rust in the floors, rockers, and doors know that going in. Stay away from rust in the roof, windshield, and dash areas.

The other thing I'm running into, and it's really a whole different topic, is the issue of buying a truck needing work versus buying a truck that's already been fixed up. I believe you never generally get your money out of these projects, so do I spend $4K on a truck and put $11K in it, or just buy a completed one for $15K. It's difficult to answer because every truck has differences. Like I said, it's really a different debate, not part of this thread.

[ken4444]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

While true, what do you get for $750 on a newer truck? That would buy a starter installed on my 05 Tundra.

Amen to that, and that's why I want to have a C10 daily driver.

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by ken4444

The other thing I'm running into, and it's really a whole different topic, is the issue of buying a truck needing work versus buying a truck that's already been fixed up. I believe you never generally get your money out of these projects, so do I spend $4K on a truck and put $11K in it, or just buy a completed one for $15K. It's difficult to answer because every truck has differences. Like I said, it's really a different debate, not part of this thread.

Here you go. Your idea of paying 4000 for truck and spending 11000 for total of 15000 although is the basic right idea except you will probably spend 5000 or more than you anticipated. Here an example of real nice truck that is on EBay now with a "Buy it Now" price of 17,500.00 which I'm sure there is a little wiggle room on the price. If it was me I'd try to buy it for 15k. There are more pics on the auction page than what I posted.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/292001361114...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[el_fantasma]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

The only thing that will be obvious is the frame. Unless they go to great lengths to grind it all smooth and put some kind of coating over it.

Everything else will just look like a normal short bed.

Gary

I guess looking at the wheel base on the SPID, glove box label, is the most obvious. 127 inches means it was originally a long bed. Then ask yourself if it matters.