Task Force Radiator

[roger55]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Thx for update Roger.
Can you explain the wiring ..... In case I end down that road

The Dakota controller uses one engine coolant temperature sensor and is programmable to switch fans for low and high speed at temperatures you select. The 3 relays are wired to run the dual fans in series for low speed and in parallel for high speed.
DC motors run in series will run the fans at half-speed and when run in parallel they run at full speed.

Here's a diagram I wrote that shows how to connect them with the pin numbers on standard Bosch type relays. The wiring schematic I used for as a guide for this came out of a GM shop manual. GM used this setup for many cars before they went to a PWM type system.



Grounding he "L" wire runs the fans at half-speed (series). Ground both the "L" and the "H" wire runs the fans at full-speed (parallel). The Dakota controller will do that at the temperatures you set.

The Dakota controller also has an input for an A/C trinary switch. That allows the controller to switch the fans to full-speed when the A/C requires it based on high-side pressure.

[FAKKY]

Thanks Roger

[Maximus]

I went all in with a Griffin radiator on my '55, and it looks GREAT but I am sure there are other radiators that will preform as well for half the cost. I think the Griffins are in the $500-600 range... and I think they specifically state they are not for LT or LS applications, but I think that may be because of hose location, and not cooling capabilities...

My top radiator hose inlet is offset to the drivers side, but I dont remeber what part number I ordered, it was like 6 or 7 years ago...

the standard one on their website is listed below:

PART NUMBER: 6-70075


http://www.griffinrad.com/load_detai...key_id=6-70075


I dont have a ton of radiator shots, but here is some I found that I took during my harness install:

I made a custom shroud/bracket for a electric fan out of galv sheetmetal.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

I am using a stock radiator out of a big truck. Same bolt pattern as the original but 1" thicker and about 4" deeper. I kept it in the stock 6 cylinder location and used a shroud. Had it tested before I installed.

This weekend I charged my ac with the truck running sitting in the garage for half an hour. Air temp was 85 in the garage. Truck never got above 195, I'm pretty happy with that.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

This weekend I charged my ac with the truck running sitting in the garage for half an hour. Air temp was 85 in the garage. Truck never got above 195, I'm pretty happy with that.

Bumping this up as 1 year later with the engine/trans bought and transmission rebuilt Im not too far from getting the engine/trans into the engine.
Who says progress is slow.

Orrie - what was the truck you took the radiator out of ?
Think I am still going to go with the champion/american eagle ...... limnited lifetime warranty - only bad thing I can really find is that they are made in china.

https://www.performancecooling.com/1...tor-fan-combo/


versus american .... almost 2x the price and doesnt have the best reviews.

http://www.speedcooling.com/1955-195...um-Shroud.html

Then its a step up to griffin around $700.


Roger - I'll be doing an LS swap. I was going to buy the DIY kit here
https://www.bp-automotive.com/produc...i-24x-engines/

But worried about the 30A for dual fans.

Also - how are the fans generally controlled - by a static switch or via PCM.
eg

https://www.lsenginediy.com/upgradin...ric-fan-guide/

[mikebte]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Bumping this up as 1 year later with the engine/trans bought and transmission rebuilt Im not too far from getting the engine/trans into the engine.
Who says progress is slow.

Also - how are the fans generally controlled - by a static switch or via PCM.
eg

https://www.lsenginediy.com/upgradin...ric-fan-guide/

Little late for my feed back, but I purchased the cheap Ebay radiator 10+ years ago and it still runs cool with my Small Block V8. I used duel 10'' electric fans. I have towed a lot with it as well with no overheating. 3 core if my mind serves me right.
I also ran dual fan controls from Flex-a-lite. (I ordered one and Ebay sent me two?)

Ether way, the controllers still work. Many other option look better such as Dakota Digital.

Link for my controller being used.
https://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessor...ol-module.html

[FAKKY]

Thanks mikebte

Mostly looking at the AC and Fan control via the PCM for ls engine.

I think there is the option to run the funs on low/high - but from reading its seems most people justr remove the 2nd fan from the PCM and basically just run the fan signal as on[high]/off when temperature raises.

I think if that was just the fan running that would be simple enough ..... where I get confused is on the A/C.

I read that generally people use the AC on/off to signal the fan on/off ..... but not sure how/why etc.

[FAKKY]

eg here

http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

Blue C1 Pin 42

Empty - Fan 1 Control - This will be empty on 99-2002 harnesses. A pin can be added for electric fan control. Programming will enable the fan control. PCM supplies a GROUND to turn on a relay. If you have two fans, keep reading, pin for fan 2 will be on the RED connector C2. You must wire your fans through a relay.


Green C2 Pin 33

Dk Green - Fan 2 Control - some 99-02 harnesses will have a pin here, this was used for the HVAC Recirculation Door control. The PCM would control the A/C recirculation to help cool the a/c system if it got too hot. In an engine swap, programming can be changed to let this control a second cooling fan. Again, PCM supplies a GROUND to run on a relay. You must wire your fans through a relay.

[FAKKY]

https://www.lsenginediy.com/upgradin...ric-fan-guide/

Will the PCM be Required to Controlthe Electric Fan(s)?

Many owners operate electric fan(s) independently of the PCM by triggering a relay through either the A/C compressor clutch circuit or through a trinary pressure switch.

One drawback to these methods when using Gen III PCMs is that unwanted DTCs set as the PCM detects the fan(s) have turned on during conditions that the PCM has determined the fan(s) should be off. One solution is to simply disable these DTCs, which also disables the intended function of the DTC processing. A better solution is to use the PCM’s A/C control functions to gain improved A/C system control and A/C system diagnostics. (See Chapter 11 for more about A/C control.)

[FAKKY]

hmmm

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-question.html