Task Force Radiator

[FAKKY]

Hey guys
Been few a few threads ...... but cant really determine for TF (more AD).

Have the stock support and radiator.
What are you guys using ? How do you know if the old radiator has enough capacity for cooling (LS engine in end).

I found these.

http://www.usradiator.com/chevrolet-...-radiator.html
(requires notch of support and $450)

http://www.usradiator.com/chevrolet-...-radiator.html
stock - $420

https://www.speedcooling.com/1955-19...-Radiator.html
$250

and crazy cheap ....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-ROW-FULL-A...3D271962252076


Anyone used anything else - like out of a parts truck without major modification. Also what are you doing for fan shrouding off engine etc and clearance.

Just planning ahead.

[FAKKY]

Looks interesting

http://www.championradiators.com/Ame...d-v8-1955-1959

This one came from this thread (roger55)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...light=radiator

[FAKKY]

That last one right now is probably the one I would go with ....... any considerations for an LS engine in terms of outlet positions ?
And AC. Assume can hang any condensor of certain size in front.

[FAKKY]

*think* the ports are

1.25 upper
1.50 lower

think thermostat is ... actually not sure

might have to use a reducer of some sort ...

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...eSplicers.html

[OrrieG]

I am using a stock radiator out of a big truck. Same bolt pattern as the original but 1" thicker and about 4" deeper. I kept it in the stock 6 cylinder location and used a shroud. Had it tested before I installed.

[59chev]

No Pics right now but I had my stock radiator re-cored with a copper 3 row. This was done about 15 years ago when I first got my truck on the road.

[FAKKY]

how much was that.
Think biggest issue now is finding a radiator that will work well for LS swap ..... as well as fit in the radiator support.

Might just have to go with one of the links and use a bunch of adapters/reducers. But guessing wont have a better idea until engine is in.

[dsraven]

the other thing you can do is find a rad the right size and then use a short piece of hose to connect to a piece of steel or aluminum tubing with the right bends to get over to the engine, then another short piece of rubber hose to connect there. that way the steel or aluminum tubing can be swaged to the same size as the connections required at each end. hard walled tubing also flows better than a rubber hose, especially the corrugated rubber hose. a steel or aluminum tube can also be painted or polished (stainless) for that shiny look I that is what you like.

[yossarian19]

1.25 / 1.5" sounds right. Check siliconeintakes.com for silicone reducers, bends, etc - their tech guy said it's OK for coolant. Summit and Speedway sell silicone bends as well. Custom radiator hoses aren't as hard to build as you might think. You can use the summit online search to narrow down on OEM molded rubber hoses to cut up & use as well.

Radiator wise I re-cored mine & moved the filler necks. It was stupid expensive, but I can beat on my little 4.8 all day in any heat and the temp needle stays put.
Doing it again I'd buy an Ebay aluminum, put a Taurus / Volvo / Whatever OEM fan on it (or stick with mechanical) & build hoses to suit. Without road racing the thing I doubt you will overwhelm the radiator.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by yossarian19

1.25 / 1.5" sounds right. Check siliconeintakes.com for silicone reducers, bends, etc - their tech guy said it's OK for coolant. Summit and Speedway sell silicone bends as well. Custom radiator hoses aren't as hard to build as you might think. You can use the summit online search to narrow down on OEM molded rubber hoses to cut up & use as well.

Radiator wise I re-cored mine & moved the filler necks. It was stupid expensive, but I can beat on my little 4.8 all day in any heat and the temp needle stays put.
Doing it again I'd buy an Ebay aluminum, put a Taurus / Volvo / Whatever OEM fan on it (or stick with mechanical) & build hoses to suit. Without road racing the thing I doubt you will overwhelm the radiator.

Well were the heck you been

siliconeintakes I have used before for trucks/turbos etc .....


Dont want to have my oem reworked .... some things like the body I like OEM and would do anything to keep (parking brake cable .... foot starter switch) ..... everything else rather fit with the engine and increase performance and rideability - just me

Most of the ebay versions I see dont have the steam port/valve and dont have the right inlet/outlet ...... and the ones that offer it for LS engines are like $800
Crazy.

So ... either something that works from parts (i saw a thread someone mentioned trailblazer radiator ..... but not sure how much work involved) ... or go with the ebay ones for like $400 with a fan and aluminium fan shroud ..... and then adapt the hosing ....

Basically becomes one of those threds where looking for someone to say

sure ..... grab a radiator off a <x> and it bolts right in - you just flip it $50.

lol

[nail pounder]

I used the "crazy cheap" champion on eBay but with a mechanical fan on my crate 350. Bent some bailing wire to make a "template" for upper and lower hoses, went to my local NAPA and found some that had perfect​ bends but were too long, I just cut them down and it was done son.

[59chev]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

how much was that.
Think biggest issue now is finding a radiator that will work well for LS swap ..... as well as fit in the radiator support.

Might just have to go with one of the links and use a bunch of adapters/reducers. But guessing wont have a better idea until engine is in.

It cost about $400 Canadian dollars if I remember correctly. The original core was shot but the tanks and brackets were good so my local small town radiator shop replaced the core but re-used the original tanks. I had the same thing done later for my heater core.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by nail pounder

I used the "crazy cheap" champion on eBay but with a mechanical fan on my crate 350. Bent some bailing wire to make a "template" for upper and lower hoses, went to my local NAPA and found some that had perfect​ bends but were too long, I just cut them down and it was done son.

Thanks
yeah right now this is the winner (champion) then just make hosing to fit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Row-1955-1...BVv4jT&vxp=mtr

Just going to have to deal with the inlet/outlet ports being wrong size and wrong position.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by 59chev

It cost about $400 Canadian dollars if I remember correctly. The original core was shot but the tanks and brackets were good so my local small town radiator shop replaced the core but re-used the original tanks. I had the same thing done later for my heater core.

thanks

[OrrieG]

For hoses I just bend up a piece of coat hanger in the shape I need, note the sizes on each end, and take it to a real parts counter that will let you go behind the counter and look at what is available. No time to look them up but I ended up with one Ford that needed shortened a little for the top and GM for the bottom. I know mine is a 350 and not LS but process is the same.

[FAKKY]

Yup
More worried about clearance coming out of that center port to thermostat .... as well as differing sizes on each end.

But worse case looks like you can adapt/step them down with two hoses etc.

https://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=17773

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...HETxoCDYHw_wcB

or most likely

http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_D...r_Reducer.html

[62lwbc10]

I also run a cheap champion radiator with an electric fan on my crate 350/290 and she never overheats.

[_Ogre]

i used a us radiator "desert cooler'' 4 core copper model w/trans cooler on truk
bought from brothers, drop shipped from us radiator
http://www.usradiator.com/chevrolet-...-radiator.html
at the time copper was cheaper than aluminum and i liked the black look

later i bought a shroud and electric fan from brothers it was also drop shipped from us radiator



i ended up covering the radiator so black or aluminum wouldn't have mattered



both radiator and fan/shroud have served me well in 30,000 miles and many 100*+ days

[dsraven]

hey ogre, that's a cool trim panel you have there. is it fiberglass? looks good.

[_Ogre]

thanks
fiberglass
hides the ac dryer, overflow tank and horns well
build details in my build thread

[FAKKY]

Does looks good ogre

[roger55]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Looks interesting

http://www.championradiators.com/Ame...d-v8-1955-1959

This one came from this thread (roger55)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...light=radiator

I am happy with the radiator but the fan and shroud combo ended up not working too well. I only had enough clearance for that slim-line type electric fan and I think the shroud hindered natural flow through the front and through the engine compartment.

It ran cool enough around town but would get hotter on the highway. Hotter than I wanted it to.

I ended up changing to dual high output Spal fans and modified the shroud to fit those along with adding flap vents.

I also added a Dakota Digital PAC-2750 controller and set it up to control the fans with a 2-speed system using 3 relays.

I'm extremely happy with the cooling now. Plenty cool on the highway and in town with the A/C on with 100+ temperatures.

[roger55]

Also,
Check out this guy's TF LSx build:

https://www.trifive.com/forums/showt...t=97044&page=6

Radiator info starts at post #208.

If I had it to do over, I'd probably do what he did. But, he did this after I had already did my install. Mine is only cooling a 305. For an LSx, I'd opt for a cross-flow radiator.

[FAKKY]

Thx for update Roger.

Can you explain the wiring ..... In case I end down that road

[AB6DO]

Hoses is not a problem if you are willing to invest a little time at "FLAPS"