72 Super Edelbrock Upgrade

[randy500]

NPT stands for national pipe thread which is a tapered thread. NPT threads seal through the tapered threads.
Line as in tubing line threads are not tapered and seal by a flare at the end of the tube or he fitting.

[67 chevelle]

Seafoam works good for degunking a running engine

[randy500]

I answered this, not sure where it wen...
NPT is national pipe thread, they are tapered threads that seal because of he taper.
Tubing uses straight threads and they seal because of a flare at the end of the tube or fitting. You probably need 5/16 or 3/8 tubing fitting unless you have some sort of aftermarket fuel pump that has pipe threads, many do, and in that case you will need to convert from pipe thread to tubing fitting.

[rharris]

Originally Posted by randy500

I answered this, not sure where it wen...
NPT is national pipe thread, they are tapered threads that seal because of he taper.
Tubing uses straight threads and they seal because of a flare at the end of the tube or fitting. You probably need 5/16 or 3/8 tubing fitting unless you have some sort of aftermarket fuel pump that has pipe threads, many do, and in that case you will need to convert from pipe thread to tubing fitting.

Ok, sounds like I need 5/16 inverted flare to -6an male.

[randy500]

Not sure the line is 5/16, do you have a caliper to measure it? I think if the wrench size is 9/16 / then probably is 5/16 tube

[rharris]

TDC....I've read about feeling for the air out of #1 cylinder when looking for TDC. Ive also seen where some people use a screw driver for visual. I have the valve covers off and my initial start point was the line on the harmonic balancer. I noticed #1 valves looked opposite the first time around and on second pass I noticed what looks to be both valves closed (push rods spin freely and no resistance on the push rods and looks like lifters are down). Is it that simple, or am I way off? I really appreciate all the help - i'm having fun and learning how things work.

[randy500]

Forget the screwdriver thing, that does the same as looking at the timing marks.
Timing marks tell you your either TDC on a compression strike stroke of either number 1 or number 6.
The valves should be loose if on TDC number 1.
I avoid that method and use one of the following
1. As you turn over engine by hand or crank with a start switch watch the number 1 intake valve close, TDC on 1 is not far away, when the timing marks align your on TDC number 1.

[randy500]

My favorite method is the most reliable. Feel for pressure building in number 1. TDC is not far away.
I have a 3 foot hose with a spark plug adapter on one end and an air fitting on the other and can use it from the driver's seat. Cranking with the key. As I feel pressure I stop and turn over engine by hand to TDC

[randy500]

I use the same hose to hold the valves in place if of changing valve springs or to find leaking valves. It's an awesome tool.

[rharris]

is it safe to say that if I'm on the timing mark, and cylinder 1 valves are loose, that cylinder 6 valves should be tight? Id like to try the hose method, seems like most use that.

[randy500]

Originally Posted by rharris

is it safe to say that if I'm on the timing mark, and cylinder 1 valves are loose, that cylinder 6 valves should be tight? Id like to try the hose method, seems like most use that.

It could be that at least on valve on cyl 6 is on a cam ramp...and probably likely, I never cared to find out.
I need to know 100% for sure that I'm on compression stroke of number 1 that's why I use the hose method and I can do it all by myself.

[randy500]

Once I find TDC number 1 on a compression stroke, I set the balancer timing marks at 12 degrees before TDC, i wire the distributor with number on the the left front post looking st it from the front of the engine compartment.
I hook up the number 1 plug wire to a spark plug which is grounded to the engine, i hold it to ensure a good ground, I then rotate the distributor clockwise about 1/2 inch, then move it counterclockwise slowly until the plug fires, I do that a few times in a row to find exactly when it fires, then I tighten down the distributor. Now I know it's timed properly and has sufficient advance to start. With a timing light this method is usually within a couple degrees of what I set it at (12 or so)

[randy500]

Originally Posted by rharris

is it safe to say that if I'm on the timing mark, and cylinder 1 valves are loose, that cylinder 6 valves should be tight? Id like to try the hose method, seems like most use that.

It could be that at least on valve on cyl 6 is on a cam ramp...and probably likely, I never cared to find out.
I need to know 100% for sure that I'm on compression stroke of number 1 that's why I use the hose method and I can do it all by myself.

[rharris]

Originally Posted by randy500

Once I find TDC number 1 on a compression stroke, I set the balancer timing marks at 12 degrees before TDC, i wire the distributor with number on the the left front post looking st it from the front of the engine compartment.
I hook up the number 1 plug wire to a spark plug which is grounded to the engine, i hold it to ensure a good ground, I then rotate the distributor clockwise about 1/2 inch, then move it counterclockwise slowly until the plug fires, I do that a few times in a row to find exactly when it fires, then I tighten down the distributor. Now I know it's timed properly and has sufficient advance to start. With a timing light this method is usually within a couple degrees of what I set it at (12 or so)

That is great info, I will try that. I do have a timing light that I played around with before disassembly. Sticker on the wheel well says 8 degrees BTDC at 600rpm. That sound about right?

[rharris]

Originally Posted by randy500

It could be that at least on valve on cyl 6 is on a cam ramp...and probably likely, I never cared to find out.
I need to know 100% for sure that I'm on compression stroke of number 1 that's why I use the hose method and I can do it all by myself.

ok you convinced me, ill try the hose method. Can I get the fitting at local auto parts store?

[randy500]

Order one on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-901-.../dp/B000X01RJK
Many choices, I use one like that without an o ring.
This has an O ring, i like and dislike the 2 sizes on it and like the brass construction, the hose is too short though, I like it to reach the drivers compartment, could add a piece of air hose to it though
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-2992-14...PYXGP5W6GYF8PP

[randy500]

8 degrees is for emissions timing, give it as much initial as it will take without pinging under load, usually that is 12 or more.

[rharris]

Originally Posted by randy500

8 degrees is for emissions timing, give it as much initial as it will take without pinging under load, usually that is 12 or more.

before TDC, correct?

[randy500]

Yes

[rharris]

Parts came today. I got the intake on, I hope I have enough RTV on the front and back - a little squeezed out when I torqued to 30 ft-lbs. I ran the RTV over to and up on the head gasket a little bit.

A few questions -
1) Messed around with TDC. What I thought was TDC has the rotor around 8 o'clock. I thought it should have been around 5 o'clock, pointing at #1 cylinder. The neighbor is coming up with his plug fitting tomorrow to verify TDC.
2) What is the wire that ran down on the inside of drivers side valve cover - factory valve cover had clips on it to hold this wire. It clamps to the water pump and runs under the drivers side exhaust manifold, but wasn't connected to anything. It is loomed with the original distributor wire.
3) where does the temp gauge get its feed from?
4) Valve covers 3 ft-lbs and intake 30 ft-lbs?
5) When searching for TDC - heard air in the heads - I assume this is leaking valves?

[randy500]

That is a big pile of expensive parts...happy for you even though I hate that crap...could you at least just leave the stock valve covers on it?

[randy500]

When distributor is installed correctly number one is at about 7 o clock, I'm pretty sure your on TDC at 8. Post a pic if you can.
Is the wire green? And which side? Where is the temp wire, it's the green one. Post a pic of the wire, I think it might be transmission controlled spark temp sensor which is an on off switch not variable resistance like the temp sensor

[rharris]

Originally Posted by randy500

That is a big pile of expensive parts...happy for you even though I hate that crap...could you at least just leave the stock valve covers on it?

I plan on cleaning them up and putting back on. My goal this weekend is to get it running properly. Then I'll go back in for finishing touches. I like the stock look too. It was more of an "i want to see whats in there" than it was I have to have new crap. I want to see what the difference is with these additions, and then maybe heads down the road. I want to see what each piece does. probably should have experimented on a not so original nice truck - but its what was in the garage...

[randy500]

Maybe someone will chime in here,
The intake bolts that go all e way through to the valley will leak oil up on the intake through the bolts, for sure those are the second bolts back from the front, take those out and put sealer on the threads. It won't hurt the gaskets to remove and replace them

[rharris]

Originally Posted by randy500

When distributor is installed correctly number one is at about 7 o clock, I'm pretty sure your on TDC at 8. Post a pic if you can.
Is the wire green? And which side? Where is the temp wire, it's the green one. Post a pic of the wire, I think it might be transmission controlled spark temp sensor which is an on off switch not variable resistance like the temp sensor

I will grab that pic tomorrow, along with a better pic of the wire that went along the valve cover - yes its green.