72 Super Edelbrock Upgrade

[rharris]

Well, I've been itching to throw on an edelbrock - here goes. The truck was mostly stock with a 307 2bl set up. Yes, I know I probably should have left it alone. No, I did not. Two of my buddies and I skipped school senior year to throw a whatever we could find four barrel set up on my 79 Camaro. It worked great, but after it would set an hour, I had to dump fuel in the carb manually to get it started. So back to the 2 barrel it went. Here I am, 20 years later with a little more cash to but new equipment. So, since there is always a tremendous amount of help on here I figured i'd share the project. I started out asking a few questions about the stock set-up, so I would have somewhat of an idea when the new stuff arrived. Thanks to all who helped on that. Per the previous owner, the engine had never been apart. 36,000 true miles If you can take an old fella's word for it - which I did. Anyway, the intake came off rather easy. When I had it off I discovered what to me seems like a tremendous amount of sludge. The other week I had a stuck lifter and it tapped pretty good, it cooled off over night and was quiet as a good little 307 is. I changed the oil and haven't had any more issues. I now see why the lifter may have been stuck. So, this is basically my first time at this. A few questions:

1) - How much sludge is too much? Some is gooey, some is harder. I'm worried about it getting into places it shouldn't be. I have cleaned as much as I could with a rag.
2) - I learned that when an intake is changed, antifreeze goes everywhere! Any tricks to avoiding that? Some seeped over into the top of the engine bay, is this a problem? Obviously I will change the oil after its all back together and run for a little.
3) Any good additive to break down the sludge and remove it?

Bear with me, it's my first time and I wanted to do it at home instead of taking to the shop. Gotta start somewhere, right? I'm looking forward to the hints. I have three boys that I need to pass on the past generations tips and hints to. I don't know what to say about this generation coming up - if there isn't an app for it, they don't seem to know how to do it! Great kids and all but sheesh!

Parts on the brown truck headed my way - 1406 600cfm edelbrock, 2701 performer intake and necessary hardware, summit HEI distributor (that should be interesting), and new valve covers.

[rharris]

Sorry for the neck-cramp pictures. No matter which way I rotate the picture, it posts like this. Now, this I bet the kids could help me out with!!

[randy500]

To avoid antifreeze in the valley you should drain the block using the 3/8 pipe plug and the bottom of each side of the block, they are usually 9/16 head and very tight, I use an impact to get them out.

That is not much sludge in the valley, I usually vacuum it out with a shop vac, it does ruin the vac hose but I have one dedicated for that purpose, after that you can clean the valley with solvent and rags. Then a final vacuum. Drain the oil right away and leave the plug out so the solvent you use will drain out.

[rharris]

Originally Posted by randy500

To avoid antifreeze in the valley you should drain the block using the 3/8 pipe plug and the bottom of each side of the block, they are usually 9/16 head and very tight, I use an impact to get them out.

That is not much sludge in the valley, I usually vacuum it out with a shop vac, it does ruin the vac hose but I have one dedicated for that purpose, after that you can clean the valley with solvent and rags. Then a final vacuum. Drain the oil right away and leave the plug out so the solvent you use will drain out.

Suppose I should have asked prior to getting the tools out........Thanks a lot.

[rharris]

any preferred solvent?

[randy500]

Originally Posted by rharris

Suppose I should have asked prior to getting the tools out........Thanks a lot.

Your welcome and to answer your question about the choke wiring, if you still have 12 volts at that throttle solenoid you can use that wire for the choke. It goes to a relay above and to the left of the horn relay, its key on switched 12 volt power. Just leave the transmission controlled spark solenoid off and tape he wire end up and set to the side.

[randy500]

WD-40 cuts grease a little bit and is safe. I use carb cleaner though, some people might not like that idea though, I have used gas too but that is too dangerous, diesel fuel would work and be safe too.

[rharris]

Appreciate it

[randy500]

Try not to get too much grit down in the pol pan, try to collect it in the valley. It can get hung up on the oil pump, the pickup and the block etc. so try to control it.

[rharris]

When the job is complete, anything special on getting the coolant back where it should be - besides just filling and refilling as it sets in? I assume it will vent all the air out over time.

[randy500]

Don't use those intake end seals either, use a 3/8 inch tall bead of silicone, works much better, buy the black so it's not so darn ugly.

[rharris]

Originally Posted by randy500

Don't use those intake end seals either, use a 3/8 inch tall bead of silicone, works much better, buy the black so it's not so darn ugly.

yeah I agree on the black, have two tubes coming. My K10 had gobs of orange hanging out the rear end cover from PO.

[randy500]

Anytime you drain he block on any type of vehicle there is a huge chance of an air lock behind the thermostat in the block, the engine will overheat if it's air locked well before the thermostat opens and when it opens you will have an immediate boil over and loose a lot of coolant, the boil over is dangerous and overheating the engine is not good at all.

To get the air out remove the heater hose at the intake and fill the radiator until coolant comes out of the hose nipple, or if no nipple on the intake or another engine type, then fill the radiator which will fill the engine with the thermostat cover removed, install the thermostats and cover when he cavity fills with coolant. Doing it either way will ensure the block is full of water and virtually no air stuck in the engine or heads.

[randy500]

More on those block coolant plugs, always use a 6 point high quality socket or 6 point box end wrench otherwise you will strip them, if it's a square head pipe plug then buy the proper 4 point socket, they are tight and rusted in place, one you get it out, no water will flow due to debris build up, poke a thin screwdriver or thick wire in the hole to free it up.

[rharris]

Great, thanks. Where are they located on each side? Near what?

[truckster]

Originally Posted by rharris

Great, thanks. Where are they located on each side? Near what?

Center of the block, just above the oil pan on both sides. You only need to remove one.

[KQQL IT]

Could also drop the pan, I'd bet it's as bad or worse than the valley.

How is the sludge under the valve covers?

[rharris]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Could also drop the pan, I'd bet it's as bad or worse than the valley.

How is the sludge under the valve covers?

worse than the valley

[randy500]

Originally Posted by rharris

Suppose I should have asked prior to getting the tools out........Thanks a lot.

Your welcome and to answer your question about the choke wiring, if you still have 12 volts at that throttle solenoid you can use that wire for the choke. It goes to a relay above and to the left of the horn relay, its key on switched 12 volt power. Just leave the transmission controlled spark solenoid off and tape he wire end up and set to the side.

[Fandango]

Originally Posted by truckster

Center of the block, just above the oil pan on both sides. You only need to remove one.

I'd have to disagree with that. A decent amount of coolant came out of the other side of my block, even after removing the first side.

As a plus, quite a bit of sediment came out of both sides as well.

[randy500]

You have to remove the plugs on both sides, with the water pump on teach side has water up to the top of each head, removing one will still get water in the valley when the intake is removed.

Also usually there is not much sludge in the pan so don't bother with that, it's way too much work.

[rharris]

Anyone know the fuel pump outlet thread size? Ive read a 307 sbc 5/16" inverted flare, and other V8's are 3/8". Am i confusing that for 5/16" line with 1/4" npt?

[randy500]

Tubing line sizes are not the same as pipe fittings. Does that help?

[tdangle]

Don't forget to run full 12V to the HEI distributor.

[rharris]

Originally Posted by randy500

Tubing line sizes are not the same as pipe fittings. Does that help?

Yes, im trying to figure out the NPT thread of the fuel pump outlet.