1964 C10 Survivor

[caseyjones]

I started to shorten the bedsides tonight. I was pretty nervous making the first cut but it's working out pretty well so far. I decided to eliminate the stake pockets to minimize the complexity of the cuts. I'll install some different tie down points later, since that's all I ever use the stake pockets for anyway.

[bigmoe]

Nice job! Are you taking 8" out of the back as well?

[caseyjones]

Originally Posted by bigmoe

Nice job! Are you taking 8" out of the back as well?

Thanks!
I will be cutting the rear down by 8” as well. I’m also hoping to install a hidden fuel filler behind the tail light while it’s split apart.

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by caseyjones

Thanks!
I will be cutting the rear down by 8” as well. I’m also hoping to install a hidden fuel filler behind the tail light while it’s split apart.

I went with one like this. Mine got painted body color. Works well but I can't fill on full speed. (not mine in pic)

[LostMy65]

Nice job, casey.
Are you keeping the step bumper?

[LostMy65]

It's funny how tastes are different and they even change over time. Before I would have preferred a shortbed, now I'm liking it as a longbed.

[caseyjones]

Rear cuts were made and tacked back together and then I ran out of wire.



I did cut away some of the structure behind the tail light pocket to prepare for the hidden filler. The gas door mechanism I had on hand was way too big to adapt so I've put that idea on the shelf for now.

[LostMy65]

Have you decided which method you're going to us for shortening the frame?
Here's the method I would use:
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=123624
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And i would use these for extra measure:
https://www.brotherstrucks.com/63-72...tinfo/FRK6372/

.
.

[Captainfab]

I still have some of these for reinforcement when shortening the frame.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=766739

[caseyjones]

I have the CPP plates already. I plan to make the cut under the cab and have a mobile welder come to finish it up since my little 110 machine isn’t gonna cut it. I sent the bearing retainer out to be cut down to fit my bellhousing yesterday. Once that is back, I’ll install the trans, measure for the driveshaft and start cutting...

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by caseyjones

I have the CPP plates already. I plan to make the cut under the cab and have a mobile welder come to finish it up since my little 110 machine isn’t gonna cut it. I sent the bearing retainer out to be cut down to fit my bellhousing yesterday. Once that is back, I’ll install the trans, measure for the driveshaft and start cutting...

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I'll be following your progress.

[caseyjones]

It's all stitched back together. I've borrowed some extra jack stands from my neighbor so I'm ready to go as soon as my parts get here. I have a youtube playlist of truck-shortening videos on heavy rotation while I wait...

[Mack B]

Originally Posted by caseyjones

It's all stitched back together. I've borrowed some extra jack stands from my neighbor so I'm ready to go as soon as my parts get here. I have a youtube playlist of truck-shortening videos on heavy rotation while I wait...

Great job, sir! I recently shortened my long bed and wish I waited till I saw your thread. I made my cuts beyond the stake pockets and condemned myself to having to Paint my whole bedsides. Your method would have been better suited for my plans.

[88Stanger]

Damn Fine Work sir!!
I cheated when i did my "69 and bought new sides, mine were shot, expecially after i tried to shorten them.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Mack B

Great job, sir! I recently shortened my long bed and wish I waited till I saw your thread. I made my cuts beyond the stake pockets and condemned myself to having to Paint my whole bedsides. Your method would have been better suited for my plans.

Yeah, I really like how he can keep the paint original with only a little touching up.

[caseyjones]

Thrashed all weekend to beat the bad weather. I pulled the bed off, got it set up on stands and supported, battled the driveshaft and eventually won, and disconnected fuel/brake/wiring/exhaust. I had marked my cuts on Friday night so I double-checked them and then...


I didn't take many pictures of the process because 1) I'm terrible at stopping to take pictures and 2) the process is very well documented already. I didn't really do anything differently than the Brothers Trucks kit would tell you to do. I used the CPP frame channels and I had to trim about 3" off each to fit between a rivet for the suspension crossmember and the parking brake crossmember.

I spent all morning reattaching the cab mounts, lining up the frame and drilling bolt holes. This afternoon I cut and re-flared the brake line, bled the brakes (and forgot to put in the prop valve stopper so had to reset the valve, doh!) and rolled it back out to install the bed.


Even before this work, the passenger rear corner of the bed sat high. Now with the shorter wheelbase and bed it's really obvious. I'm going to have to take it to a frame shop to get this fixed. The drivers side body lines are aligned. The passenger side bed matches up to to the cab but then takes off toward the sky from there. The cab is the same distance off the frame on both rear corners, so it's gotta be the frame.




I'm waiting on my buddy to modify my new transmission's bearing retainer but I can splice the exhaust pipe back together and get the parking brake system all put back together in the meantime. And I have a set of 2" lowering blocks ready to go in...

[SkinnyG]

I've straightened frames with judicious use of heat, or by strategic placement of weld beads.

My take on it is: "It's messed up. I can make it less messed up."

[caseyjones]

It is tempting to try to fix this myself but in this case I'm going to defer to the guys with experience and equipment

[SkinnyG]

Did you weld the Brother's kit in?

If you didn't, you could try supporting the frame at the cut/splice, loosening all the through bolts, let gravity do its thing, and re-tighten all the bolts.

[caseyjones]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Did you weld the Brother's kit in?

If you didn't, you could try supporting the frame at the cut/splice, loosening all the through bolts, let gravity do its thing, and re-tighten all the bolts.

I didn't technically buy the Brother's Kit...I used the CPP frame stiffening brackets and followed the Brother's process. I haven't welded it in yet, so after I read your question I tried your suggestion and nothing moved. Those C-channel stiffeners are beefy and a tight fit in the frame. I checked the frame rails with a level as a straightedge and both sides are identically straight.

I did notice the same problem with the corner being high before I ever cut the frame. I think it's just more noticeable now that the end of the bed is 20" closer to the cab. I'm pretty confident its a twist in the frame and that the frame shop can straighten it out. The truck also has a pretty good driver's side lean, maybe the frame work will help with that too.

[Sevens]

Nice truck and nice work!

[Lokin4AReason]

Originally Posted by caseyjones

Thanks!
I will be cutting the rear down by 8” as well. I’m also hoping to install a hidden fuel filler behind the tail light while it’s split apart.

I would be interested in seeing this . , . Tney have a few concepts already from what i have noticed

[caseyjones]

So I have to admit that I was wrong and SkinnyG's suggestion was right. I decided to try it again but go further and it straightened out. I lined up the mobile welder - seems like he did a good job, and the truck is pretty dang straight now. I'm still in the middle of the trans swap and I'll have a more detailed post on that when I'm done...but I'm happy the truck is solid and straight again!

[SkinnyG]

Yay!

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by caseyjones

So I have to admit that I was wrong and SkinnyG's suggestion was right. I decided to try it again but go further and it straightened out. I lined up the mobile welder - seems like he did a good job, and the truck is pretty dang straight now. I'm still in the middle of the trans swap and I'll have a more detailed post on that when I'm done...but I'm happy the truck is solid and straight again!

Are you saying you should have used the brothers kit instead of the cpp c-channel stiffners?
I was impressed with how heavy of gauge cpp's were, and they are a really nice tight fit. So tight I would think they would be almost impossible to get back out even before welding.