Pulling motor question

[REDROCKER652002]

I personally like the idea of removing the front of the truck. If not the whole thing, at least the bumper, radiator and all that stuff. Then you have a clean path to where you need to be without having to deal with fender alignment after you are done. Just my .02. Gonna try that when my son decides and get's his motor all worked out.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by REDROCKER652002

I personally like the idea of removing the front of the truck. If not the whole thing, at least the bumper, radiator and all that stuff. Then you have a clean path to where you need to be without having to deal with fender alignment after you are done. Just my .02. Gonna try that when my son decides and get's his motor all worked out.

I did remove the radiator and bumper, just not sure if I want to go to the trouble of removing the front body parts.

[The Rocknrod]

It's up to you really. I just didnt want to fight it. And I could crawl in to do the wiring etc. since it's all custom. The only bolt on the front that just a little out of the way are the top fronts that attach the core support to the fender. But once you do them one time it's all good.

[Desert dog]

Not sure if its applicable here, but when I install an engine tranny combo in an MGB I raise the rear of the car on jack stands to help with the angle needed to clear everything.

[cwcarpenter98]

Nice! One of my favorite engine colors right there

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

Nice! One of my favorite engine colors right there

Thanks! That color is so cool!

[The Rocknrod]

That's awesome, looks great too.

[Steeveedee]

Looks nice! How deep did you go? A complete rebuild, or?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Looks nice! How deep did you go? A complete rebuild, or?

Just rings, honing. We will see how it turns out, hopefully it will run well.

[Asshat]

The transmission rolled off the jack under the truck. Now I gotta figure out how to get the trans back on the jack. Damn, that thing is heavy.
How do I do this by myself?
Wouldn’t be so bad if I could do it out from the truck, but then I can’t get the truck high enough to roll it under.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Asshat

The transmission rolled off the jack under the truck. Now I gotta figure out how to get the trans back on the jack. Damn, that thing is heavy.
How do I do this by myself?
Wouldn’t be so bad if I could do it out from the truck, but then I can’t get the truck high enough to roll it under.

Yike! I've done it solo, but that was 50 YA, when dinosaurs roamed the earth. They also didn't have the park brake drum. That makes it extra special in terms of effort. Try tipping it onto the jack panel, and then rotating it around all the way on, if that makes sense. This won't work if you have swivel casters on the jack.

[cwcarpenter98]

Could you strap the trans to the jack outside of the truck, then jack up one side of the truck high enough to get the transmission under? Once the trans is under, you can let the truck back down. That might work if you have a floor jack and trans jack

[Desert dog]

What about pulling the tranny tunnel cover and dropping it in using your hoist and sling?

[Asshat]

Does this bearing look right? Pretty sure it goes this way.

And, it looks like you have to install the fork and yoke before the transmission is moved into place. Does that make sense? Or can you install the bearing on the trans shaft, slide the transmission into place and then slide the yoke lever into the bearing?

[Desert dog]

It appears to be oriented correctly, but the one I just did did not have the sleeve on the front side of it. Also, is that a new throw out bearing? No use in reusing an old one as it may fail prematurely as did one for me recently. It wasn't fun pulling the tranny again for a 20 dollar part!

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Desert dog

It appears to be oriented correctly, but the one I just did did not have the sleeve on the front side of it. Also, is that a new throw out bearing? No use in reusing an old one as it may fail prematurely as did one for me recently. It wasn't fun pulling the tranny again for a 20 dollar part!

I did order a bearing kit, however, the one I received was taller than the original in the picture above.
1.85 new vs 1.26 old throw out bearing

I am not sure if that new thicker bearing will fit. Have not been able to find a different one.
Any pics of yours?

[Desert dog]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I did order a bearing kit, however, the one I received was taller than the original in the picture above.
1.85 new vs 1.26 old throw out bearing

I am not sure if that new thicker bearing will fit. Have not been able to find a different one.
Any pics of yours?

Sorry no pictures. But I'm pretty sure it was the 1.85" one though. Also in regards to the clutch fork, I typically install the bearing on the installed fork first and then install the input shaft through the bearing.
A couple of things to note. The clutch fork should have a clip in place that snaps over the ball stud in the bell housing. Don't forget a dab of grease there. A lot of them are missing. And the throw out bearing needs to be installed on the forks correctly. The forks go behind the metal tabs. I hope this helps.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Desert dog

Sorry no pictures. But I'm pretty sure it was the 1.85" one though. Also in regards to the clutch fork, I typically install the bearing on the installed fork first and then install the input shaft through the bearing.
A couple of things to note. The clutch fork should have a clip in place that snaps over the ball stud in the bell housing. Don't forget a dab of grease there. A lot of them are missing. And the throw out bearing needs to be installed on the forks correctly. The forks go behind the metal tabs. I hope this helps.

I do have the clip in place. And good on the grease.
What do you mean the forks go behind the metal tabs? You mean in the slot of the bearing?

[Desert dog]

Originally Posted by Asshat

I do have the clip in place. And good on the grease.
What do you mean the forks go behind the metal tabs? You mean in the slot of the bearing?

Yes the metal tabs go in the slot not behind the forks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4e8P0fFltk

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Desert dog

It appears to be oriented correctly, but the one I just did did not have the sleeve on the front side of it. Also, is that a new throw out bearing? No use in reusing an old one as it may fail prematurely as did one for me recently. It wasn't fun pulling the tranny again for a 20 dollar part!

That’s not a sleeve, it’s part of the transmission shaft.

[cwcarpenter98]

In the picture you posted, you do have the bearing oriented correctly. The clutch fork has two tines that ride in the grooved area on the throw out bearing. When installed correctly, you should have one tine on top and one on the bottom, and they should be about center on the bearing.

The height difference is for the different clutch fingers. I ran into this 2 years ago when I did my engine swap and also put in a different clutch. I used the many finger style clutch, but for the life of me, I can't remember which bearing I ended up using. Anyways, if you didn't change the clutch, and you get a new bearing, just match it up with the one you pulled out

[Asshat]

Started getting the rest of it together and tried spinning the starter. It just clicks. Sounds like the solenoid is kicking out the gear, but it is not spinning the motor. So, either my battery doesn't have enough power or there's something wrong with the way I installed it.
Geez, so close.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Started getting the rest of it together and tried spinning the starter. It just clicks. Sounds like the solenoid is kicking out the gear, but it is not spinning the motor. So, either my battery doesn't have enough power or there's something wrong with the way I installed it.
Geez, so close.

Now that I’m getting ready for bed, I’m wondering if I need to have the key switch in the “on” position. I connected a remote switch from the battery + to the “S” terminal on the starter. I remember doing this before, with compression checks. I don’t think I had the key switch on. I don’t think that is necessary.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

In the picture you posted, you do have the bearing oriented correctly. The clutch fork has two tines that ride in the grooved area on the throw out bearing. When installed correctly, you should have one tine on top and one on the bottom, and they should be about center on the bearing.

The height difference is for the different clutch fingers. I ran into this 2 years ago when I did my engine swap and also put in a different clutch. I used the many finger style clutch, but for the life of me, I can't remember which bearing I ended up using. Anyways, if you didn't change the clutch, and you get a new bearing, just match it up with the one you pulled out

There are two diaphragm type pressure plates.
The flat finger which uses a long tob and the raised finger which uses a short tob.
The raised finger style was developed because the flat finger type would tend to overcentre and the fingers would stick in the opposite direction. High rpm did that. When the rpm dropped again the fingers would violently snap back to normal.
The early 64-66 Chevelle and gto’s had the problem. Clutch pedal would stick to the floor, you’d lift the gas pedal, rpm dropped and bang. Back to normal. If you were lucky it didn’t destroy a few parts.
It was a holy crap movement when it happened to me.
IIRC Borg and beck took a mid length tob as did the long style.
Borg and beck used mostly by mopar. Long style used by ford.

[cwcarpenter98]

If the starter is clicking, start with making sure your battery has enough juice. You want to see at least 12.3 ish volts at your battery to start with