1967 Chevy 327 Alternator Setup

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I don't know if it applies only to other engines with accessory holes in the head, but I have seen posts here on the forum about the 1972-only upper alternator bracket being longer and different shape that allows for more adjustment room.

Yeah, there certainly seems to be a lot of discussion about several different braces.


Clay

[Steeveedee]

There are sure to be videos online about clocking your alternator. It merely involves removing the 4 screws attaching the two halves together, pulling them slightly apart to allow rotation, and putting the screws back in one the rotation is complete. Careful, because if you go to far apart you'll have to deal with reinstalling the brushes in the holder.

[Accelo]

I am wondering if the valve covers are squared off more than 67 originals? This may account for some differences.

Does your stock set up have the cast iron water pump pulley?
I have only read about this pulley and have never seen one in person.

A better question is you goal to make it OEM stock or to just get what you have functioning?

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

There are sure to be videos online about clocking your alternator. It merely involves removing the 4 screws attaching the two halves together, pulling them slightly apart to allow rotation, and putting the screws back in one the rotation is complete. Careful, because if you go to far apart you'll have to deal with reinstalling the brushes in the holder.

I was able to reclock it. It gave me a little more room, but it still hits the valve cover. I will post up some pictures later.



Clay

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by Accelo

I am wondering if the valve covers are squared off more than 67 originals? This may account for some differences.

Does your stock set up have the cast iron water pump pulley?
I have only read about this pulley and have never seen one in person.

A better question is you goal to make it OEM stock or to just get what you have functioning?

I was wondering about the valve covers too. Unfortunately, I don't have the ones that came on it any more so I can't compare, but that may be one of the issues. My pulleys are GM, but not the cast iron ones. As far as goals, I am going for a stock look, but I am not going for factory. Basically, I want the truck to be a driver in a mostly stock manner.

I was looking at this alternator setup as well and that brace is available in a reproduction.


Clay

[67C10Step]

Your valve covers look to be the same as the stock covers that were on my 283. I went and measured the height from the flat on the top to the flange at approximately 2-3/8".

Also, a few more photos of the alternator position. My engine has a 6-3/4" crank pulley and not knowing what size is on your 327 suggesting a belt would be difficult. Also, I ran a string along the topside of my upper bracket and it measures approximately 14".

Not sure if any of this helps but hope it does some.

[Accelo]

Looks like your w/p and crank pulley line up. Their are several different offset pulley's for the alternator. You may also be able to add a spacer behind the one you have. However you may run out of threads. Some of the factory pulleys are recessed on the end for this very reason.
The valve covers are likely the same height but the corners are rounded more. I was thinking this may be the difference?

Note: The upper alternator brace bolts to the rear of the alternator.

[67C10Step]

Originally Posted by Accelo

Looks like your w/p and crank pulley line up. Their are several different offset pulley's for the alternator. You may also be able to add a spacer behind the one you have. However you may run out of threads. Some of the factory ones are recessed on the end for this very reason.
The valve covers are likely the same height but the corners are rounded more. I was thinking this may be the difference?

Note: The upper alternator brace bolts to the rear of the alternator.

Thanks for that last note. Never noticed it in photos before and this was the way it was set up when I first got the truck. I will correct that issue this evening!

[Steeveedee]

Looking at the picture of Accelo's and 67C10's setups, I see that the adjustment bracket for the alternator bracket mounts to the intake manifold, and it is a lot straighter. Maybe that setup would be better?

[Accelo]

"I see that the adjustment bracket for the alternator bracket mounts to the intake manifold, and it is a lot straighter. Maybe that setup would be better? "

I believe you may be looking at the wrong picture. This is pg 2.
His is on the intake manifold, see picture on pg 1.
My apology if I am wrong on this.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Accelo

"I see that the adjustment bracket for the alternator bracket mounts to the intake manifold, and it is a lot straighter. Maybe that setup would be better? "

I believe you may be looking at the wrong picture. This is pg 2.
His is on the intake manifold, see picture on pg 1.
My apology if I am wrong on this.

You are right. I have a cold, it's making my head fuzzy. Thanks for the clarification.

[Jason Banks]

Clay, did you figure this out? I'm going to get you a picture Saturday of an original 67 327 set up. I might also be able to get you the brackets off a 68 307 if they are the same. But, won't be able to look until Saturday.

[zicc1835]

subd been dealing with this same issue since forever with headers im using a Mr. gasket bracket attaches to the head with the header bolts I have clocked the alternator too still very little adjustment on the belt to the point of having to finagle the pulley on with the belt around next size down is to short and gets the alternator up against the valve cover and on and on and on

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

Clay, did you figure this out? I'm going to get you a picture Saturday of an original 67 327 set up. I might also be able to get you the brackets off a 68 307 if they are the same. But, won't be able to look until Saturday.

Hi Jason, yes I think I have it figured out. I need to make some tweaks to the upper brace. I found another 1967 K20 on the Internet that is original and it also has the brace mounting to the intake. Additionally, with the alternator being clocked correctly now, I seem to have enough travel to get the belt tension correct. Another issue that I have with my existing alternator is that the bottom bolt hole is wallowed out a bit and the steel bushing / sleeve that is in it is pretty worn as well. This makes the alternator deflect quite a bit which is what I believe is causing the pulley to not fully line up. I am going to get a new alternator and do some more tweaking to the upper brace and see if that fixes it.


Clay

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

Good morning everyone!

The challenge that I have is that the alternator pulley doesn't seem to line up with the water pump and crank pulley. It is off by about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. Additionally, the upper brace doesn't have enough travel in it to properly adjust the belt tension.

Those are very common problems with alternators and short water pumps. If heads are aftermarket or Vortec with a raised valve cover "rails", even stock height covers will interfere. I actually extended my upper bracket by a couple inches and used a longer belt. It's tight, but I can remove the belt.

I'm not sure why your alternator pulley doesn't line up with the crank pulley. Here's my setup using a lower cast bracket that mounts to the head. I know your heads don't have bolt holes, but maybe this picture will help someone else.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I don't have a '67 or a 327, but I do have a different type of Alternator bracket on my '71 GMC Jimmy with a 350 and SM465 4-speed...
Also, I upgraded to the 12SI internally-regulated Alternator when the O'Reilly warranty part EVRs kept being dud after dud.
Short water pump.
Semper Fi.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I don't have a '67 or a 327, but I do have a different type of Alternator bracket...
Semper Fi.

Does the alternator move over the top of the valve cover? Do you have a photo of that?

Thanks.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Does the alternator move over the top of the valve cover? Do you have a photo of that?

Thanks.

The Alternator is pulled away from the valve cover.
I usually use a hammer handle to get leverage before tightening the Alternator bolt to the right belt tension.
I think the Alternator body would contact the valve cover without a tensioned fan belt. Also the type 12SI is slightly greater in diameter than the type 10 [w/ external regulator].
I'll try to shoot another picture later.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Here are the pix I promised: