Donz '65 SWB Stepper Budget Build...

[Alan's Classic]

The hood looks good. Dust some black rattle can over it for a guide coat and block away.

[TJ's Chevy]

nice pictures of the trucks! And cool hood!

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

The hood looks good. Dust some black rattle can over it for a guide coat and block away.

Thanks Alan… Being so new to bodywork has me learning some through trial and error… The primer coat sure highlighted some areas that need more attention… Once I address those areas, then I will do the black rattle can dusting and blocking...

Originally Posted by T.J. MCCAULEY

nice pictures of the trucks! And cool hood!

Thanks TJ and the best part about the hood… it was free!!!

[Ta2Don]

[likaroc13]

Hood is lookin' good. Just keep at it. I sold a dash bezel to a guy a couple weeks ago who mentioned he was going to looking at a double-scoop cowl hood like yours for his '95 C-1500.

I'm a big fan of the OBS ('88-98) body style myself. Had a '93 short/step as my first vehicle, & owned it for a little over 9 years. Just got into a fullsize again ('97 2dr/2wd Tahoe) in January of this year.

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Case in point, one night my wife went out with the girls.
When she came home I was like: "Well that was a short night, the girls poop out on you, or did you poop out on them?"
She replied, "Honey, it's 1 am...."

Sounds like me… jobbin' along and next thing ya know, wife is bringing me a pillow and blanket...

Originally Posted by clemdaddy

like the scooped hood. i would like to see the rear view if you've got a shot. and don't worry about the body work, with your talent, that fillin', sandin' primein' business will soon be easy.

stay after it my friend... looking good.

Thanks Clem! I'll see if I can get a rear view posted for ya this weekend.

Originally Posted by likaroc13

Hood is lookin' good. Just keep at it. I sold a dash bezel to a guy a couple weeks ago who mentioned he was going to looking at a double-scoop cowl hood like yours for his '95 C-1500.

I'm a big fan of the OBS ('88-98) body style myself. Had a '93 short/step as my first vehicle, & owned it for a little over 9 years. Just got into a fullsize again ('97 2dr/2wd Tahoe) in January of this year.

My '90 model came to me via a trade for a '71 Super Beetle that I had a grand total of $50 in… The kid traded me the Silverado straight across, he drove it to my place shifting sans clutch. I pulled the pushrod, had it welded back together and bled the clutch and started driving it!
Apparently he bent and broke the clutch pedal pushrod after replacing the Master & Slave Cylinders… For a year or so I scratched my head as to how the pushrod was broken... Then the "used" master cylinder he put on gave up the ghost.
I replaced the part and during the bleed process the rod, from the slave cyl to the clutch fork, slipped off and locked up against the bell housing. This caused the Clutch pedal to lock up... After diagnosing the problem the proverbial Light Bulb lit up… That's when I realized, when that happened to the PO, he muscled it until the pushrod bent and broke…

[Ta2Don]

I like it, not quite as tasty as the Curly Wurly's... but an easy to work product!

[Ta2Don]

The Mailman brought a package today from Grizz...
GOODIES!


The Dog had to get in on the action since the goodies were from his homeland...

My wife claimed the T-Shirt... and the long Number Plate may end up on the Son's Volvo...

Time for a Curly Wurly bar...

[Ta2Don]

Went to see a friend to arrange for some help on my truck this weekend and, next to his work, I found this gem…



Just thought I'd share...

[Ta2Don]

Small Update today…

For Jeff…


Here's the first patch, Jeff kindy provided for my inner fender repair, alongside the piece I cut off of mine…


Here's my inner fender awaiting the patch…


Here's the patch clamped in place ready for the welder… only to find I need to get a refill on my Argon mix...


Here's the hood I'm using to get acquainted with Body Filler work, 2cd attempt…
Picked up some High fill primer and more sandpaper for next time...


Lastly, This is for CLEM… Here's the rear view of the aforementioned hood…


till next time...

[chad64chevy]

looking good! as far as body filler get some longer sanding blocks, it will help keep it looking straight! you can make some blocks my buddys dad has a few he made for different sanding jobs! Wal-Mart has a bigger sanding block, I think its 2x9 or 3x9 block with a handle on top, it would be in the paint section! I bought one and used it on my rear tubs, works great! im also learner with bodywork and fillers, keep it up, WE'VE got 11 months tops, to get them ready! just a lil motivation for you!!

[clemdaddy]

looking good on the hood. chads right, long blocks are the way to go. check out autobodytoolmart.com, good supplier and good prices.

stay after it man...

[NEWFISHER]

Hood is looking good Don. You can also stand back about 3 feet and rattle can some black across the primer. It will speckle the area you have worked on. Then take your long block and lightly scuff the guide coat. It will quickly reveal high and low spots.

[da_bears_da1]

Loving the Da Bears. Thanks Don! Looks like the patch will fit right in, hoping to see some sparks soon.

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

looking good! as far as body filler get some longer sanding blocks, it will help keep it looking straight! you can make some blocks my buddys dad has a few he made for different sanding jobs! Wal-Mart has a bigger sanding block, I think its 2x9 or 3x9 block with a handle on top, it would be in the paint section! I bought one and used it on my rear tubs, works great! im also learner with bodywork and fillers, keep it up, WE'VE got 11 months tops, to get them ready! just a lil motivation for you!!

Originally Posted by clemdaddy

looking good on the hood. chads right, long blocks are the way to go. check out autobodytoolmart.com, good supplier and good prices.

stay after it man...

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Hood is looking good Don. You can also stand back about 3 feet and rattle can some black across the primer. It will speckle the area you have worked on. Then take your long block and lightly scuff the guide coat. It will quickly reveal high and low spots.

Thanks guys! The encouragement and guidance comments are well received and very much appreciated. I'm learning that patience is a must when doing bodywork… the hood is coming along nicely and I should be ready to prime and paint this next weekend… Here's a shot after spraying some fill primer today…


Getting' Closer!!!

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by da_bears_da1

Loving the Da Bears. Thanks Don! Looks like the patch will fit right in, hoping to see some sparks soon.

Wazzup Jeff!!!!

Here's a bit of an update on the inner fender repair…
Here's a shot of the patch clamped and ready for some sparks!!!


Here's as much as I could do before the Argon mix was completely depleted today...


Aside from the inner fender and the hood for my DD, I removed the original Mechanical Clutch Linkage bracket from the Driver's side frame rail...



Small steps, but progress nonetheless!!!

Bear Down Bears!

[Jmorales3181]

Looking good Don! Upol also makes a glazing putty called dolphin glaze which works really well....we use it everyday at work. I usually always finish my bondo work with 180 and feather around it and then go over the repair area with a skim coat of glazing putty to smooth out the transition from the bondo to the sourrounding area...if that makes any sense...just what works for me anyway. Good luck and keep rockin buddy

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by Jmorales3181

Looking good Don! Upol also makes a glazing putty called dolphin glaze which works really well....we use it everyday at work. I usually always finish my bondo work with 180 and feather around it and then go over the repair area with a skim coat of glazing putty to smooth out the transition from the bondo to the sourrounding area...if that makes any sense...just what works for me anyway. Good luck and keep rockin buddy

Hey Jmo, and any other body guys who care to add input, I have a quick question or 3 about glazing putty… Jmo is this the putty you referred to?


Is it a 2 part mix like Body filler, and what grit paper would be best for smoothing out once the putty is cured? And finally, would I just need regular primer over these spots before paint? Thanks for your input guys!!!
All this is new to me and leaving me a bit

[TJ's Chevy]

Nice progress! Keep it up! Hood is looking good.

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by T.J. MCCAULEY

Nice progress! Keep it up! Hood is looking good.

Thanks TJ...
With JMo's tips, I'm hoping to get this hood finished, painted , and installed in the next 2 weeks...

This weekend I've got to tow the boy's Volvo home to diagnose engine issues...
Monday will be tied up with Dr. Appt for my Beautiful Bride!
and some of the best Pizza in the state...

Laterz for now!!!

[Jmorales3181]

Originally Posted by Ta2Don

Hey Jmo, and any other body guys who care to add input, I have a quick question or 3 about glazing putty… Jmo is this the putty you referred to?


Is it a 2 part mix like Body filler, and what grit paper would be best for smoothing out once the putty is cured? And finally, would I just need regular primer over these spots before paint? Thanks for your input guys!!!
All this is new to me and leaving me a bit

That's the stuff it's. 2 part mix. And I usually start with like 100 grit paper to take down the high spots or not so smooth edges and then block with 180 then feather around with 220 and 300 and then sometimes 400 grit. I'm not a huge fan of the primer will fill it method I like to be able to make my bodywork smooth enough to seal it if I had too. I usually use an etch primer first for any bare metal any larger than the size of a nickel. Then a few coats of high build primer and some guild coat then block with 400 and then 600 and paint....hope this helps

[clemdaddy]

yeah don, jmo does it right... and thats the glaze i use too. he does a little more fine grit sanding steps than me but now i know one of his secrets, mine will turn out better. thanks jmo, and thanks don for making good progress and posting up often.

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by Jmorales3181

That's the stuff it's. 2 part mix. And I usually start with like 100 grit paper to take down the high spots or not so smooth edges and then block with 180 then feather around with 220 and 300 and then sometimes 400 grit. I'm not a huge fan of the primer will fill it method I like to be able to make my bodywork smooth enough to seal it if I had too. I usually use an etch primer first for any bare metal any larger than the size of a nickel. Then a few coats of high build primer and some guild coat then block with 400 and then 600 and paint....hope this helps

Thanx JMo!!! that clarifies and erases some of the I've been experiencing...

Originally Posted by clemdaddy

yeah don, jmo does it right... and thats the glaze i use too. he does a little more fine grit sanding steps than me but now i know one of his secrets, mine will turn out better. thanks jmo, and thanks don for making good progress and posting up often.

Thanx Clem for the encouraging and affirming words!
As for posting often, sometimes it is a bit too often for my wife...
I look up from the screen to see her albeit a bit too late...

[Alan's Classic]

Patience is diffenately a virtue in body work, and it looks like your catching on pretty quick.

[Ta2Don]

Originally Posted by Jmorales3181

Looking good Don! Upol also makes a glazing putty called dolphin glaze which works really well....we use it everyday at work. I usually always finish my bondo work with 180 and feather around it and then go over the repair area with a skim coat of glazing putty to smooth out the transition from the bondo to the sourrounding area...if that makes any sense...just what works for me anyway. Good luck and keep rockin buddy

Thanks for the kind words, and the advice… Sprayed some fill primer (rattle can variety) and got a bit overzealous in a couple of spots that decided to crack as the primer cured... I guess that means more sanding and hunting some dolphin glaze, Thanks JMo!

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Patience is diffenately a virtue in body work, and it looks like your catching on pretty quick.

My faith in God has me practicing much more patience now that He leads me, but this bodywork stuff is one grand exercise in patience… Thanks for the encouraging words Alan…

Thanks to my "Cyber Brothers" (Clem's term) I have found the motivation and much needed assistance to tackle my build on a much deeper level than originally planned...