Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by menace121978

........but its just getting pricey.

, it only gets more expensive as you go! I was well in to the 5 figures on the 68, and it wasn't close to being done!

Originally Posted by menace121978

iduno, this has really got me thinking...

$1200 700r4
$1200 heads
$200 cam
$200 serp set-up
$200 a/c compressor

Are these figures for your current engine, or a 'budget' list for an LSx?

Originally Posted by menace121978

whats your thoughts? i'm going to find out what gen III has a high mount a/c... maybe 6.0's?

Take a look as you Goat, I would think that might be higher.

[glock35ipsc]

I have a link on my puter at work that I will post for you tomorrow. A guy took a pre-Vortec 4.3 V-6 mount and modified very easily to accept the smaller radial type compressor that Fred originally had. It looked like it belonged there, and was installed on a Gen III. It's just not what I want to do.

I'll also post a pic of an TBSS compressor that was mounted on a Gen III block. It didn't look like it mounted directly to the block, which I thought it would, but it looked like the made 4 adapters to go on each bolt hole.

The problem with using one from the other LS setups, which would be from a car, is that they all sit closer to the front of the block. Example, using strictly made up numbers.....where the truck serp belt would sit 4" in front of the head, the car belt would be 2". The pulley alignment would be way off.

BUT, you could certainly use the entire front of another LS setup, LS2-3-6-7. I think I have drawings of the different car setups and where each item lives, I'll post those tomorrow too.


**EDIT:

$400 for the pulley mount + the compressor?...

I just read this part again. The bracket kit is $197, and I found compressors for as low as $145 today. Current Performance sells the compressor and bracket kit together for $397.



For me, spending the $350-$400 is worth it versus messing with the frame in this location, plus having easier access to the compressor for servicing, not having to reroute ($$) the tranny cooler lines, and using a better proven compressor.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

I have a link on my puter at work that I will post for you tomorrow. A guy took a pre-Vortec 4.3 V-6 mount and modified very easily to accept the smaller radial type compressor that Fred originally had. It looked like it belonged there, and was installed on a Gen III. It's just not what I want to do.

http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/vi...p?f=34&t=79059

I'll also post a pic of an TBSS compressor that was mounted on a Gen III block. It didn't look like it mounted directly to the block, which I thought it would, but it looked like the made 4 adapters to go on each bolt hole.

[menace121978]

thank you Bob!

those figures were for the crate 350 i have...

$400 for the entire setup isnt too bad... i'll look at the goat tonight.

[glock35ipsc]

I just read this one a guys blog, so true!

One of my buddies believes there’s a law called, “The $200 Law”. Driveshaft? $200. Radiator? $200. Belts and hoses? $200. AC compressor? $200.

[glock35ipsc]

I just read this one a guys blog, so true!

One of my buddies believes there’s a law called, “The $200 Law”. Driveshaft? $200. Radiator? $200. Belts and hoses? $200. AC compressor? $200.

[menace121978]

thats how it goes... then there is that $1000 law when i want to do something to the goat! i swear everything on that dang car is 1k.

we'll see how it goes... the more i think about it, the top mount kit isnt too expensive... and also going that route i wont need to have a special someone modify the engine mount table or cut the frame. which also saves a few bucks.

SOMETIMES IT JUST SEEMS SO MUCH SIMPLER TO PUT THE OLD 350 BACK IN W/ A PAINLESS WIRE HARNESS

[clinebarger]

That law really takes effect when you get a boat= Break Out Another Thousand.

[mcbassin]

$4500 seems like a bunch of cash....but just the smooth power, fuel ecomony, and reliability may make it worth it, not to mention how cool this rig is going to be.

Originally Posted by clinebarger

That law really takes effect when you get a boat= Break Out Another Thousand.

totally agree with this
Boat=bottomless money pit



This guy claims this engine is 300 hp model
Price seems pretty good but you'll have to add shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-3-V...Q5fAccessories

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

$4500 seems like a bunch of cash....but just the smooth power, fuel ecomony, and reliability may make it worth it, not to mention how cool this rig is going to be.

My feelings exactly!!

[JohnC]

Originally Posted by menace121978

....SOMETIMES IT JUST SEEMS SO MUCH SIMPLER TO PUT THE OLD 350 BACK IN W/ A PAINLESS WIRE HARNESS

There is easier, and doing something different. It's really a matter of opinion. Really from this thread Bob has made the swap look pretty easy. Yes a lot of homework, and $$. However, the end result will look sweet. On the flip side there are a lot of old school 350's in trucks that look sweet as well. My suggestion would be to lay everything out on paper, and really look at both setups. Then decide which is better for you, and the current project you are working on.

[nlped]

^^^ Amen on the boat thing. It's just a hole in the water to throw money. Money I have set aside to throw at my truck...and Mustang...and the shop...and.....you get the point

[glock35ipsc]

^^^ Agree. Just FYI, by the time this swap is done, I will have probably right at $4500 in it. That's counting every last hose clamp, can of paint of degreaser, gauge cluster, AC stuff, gas tanks, harness rework and tune, etc.

[menace121978]

thanks for the heads up on the $...

the goats compressor is mounted really low also. its hard to tell exactly how low because the way the motor mounts but it still looks low when i look at the frame rails of the truck. oh yea, did you already figure a way to mount the '06 radiator in there?

$4500 huh... i'm going to figure exactly how much $ it will be to get 300hp out of this 350 w/ a new 700r4 to see which route is more cost effective. i never plan on dd her... just shows and cruises so mpg is a mute point...

sorry to brain storm right in the middle of your build Bob!

[68 TT]

If you only want 300 hp out of a 350 then you can get away with a pretty inexpensive setup.

It all comes down to how you want it to look and if you want EFI or not.

A stock set of 1.94 valve run of the mill small block heads, a 280 degree hydraulic cam, an RPM intake & 600 to 750 carb with headers and a decent exhaust will get you 285 hp to the rear wheels. That is about 340 hp at the crank. I have run this combination on several vehicles and it sounds nice with just a little bit of a lope, runs great and is tame enough to use as a daily driver. You don't even need a stall converter with it.

You can freshen up a decent condition 350, install the required parts and build a good exhaust system for under $2000.

When you want aluminum heads and/or EFI things get expensive quickly and the LS engine becomes a viable option.

[joe231]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

If you only want 300 hp out of a 350 then you can get away with a pretty inexpensive setup.

It all comes down to how you want it to look and if you want EFI or not.

A stock set of 1.94 valve run of the mill small block heads, a 280 degree hydraulic cam, an RPM intake & 600 to 750 carb with headers and a decent exhaust will get you 285 hp to the rear wheels. That is about 340 hp at the crank. I have run this combination on several vehicles and it sounds nice with just a little bit of a lope, runs great and is tame enough to use as a daily driver. You don't even need a stall converter with it.

You can freshen up a decent condition 350, install the required parts and build a good exhaust system for under $2000.

When you want aluminum heads and/or EFI things get expensive quickly and the LS engine becomes a viable option.

What kinda torque?

that is about the set-up I'm thinking but with a performer intake....285 at the rear wheels ain't bad

[Driveway Dreams]

Bob, I gotta put the rest of my bolts in my truck and hook up the wires and drive out to see Fred again. Coming along really nice. GOOD WORK!

[menace121978]

thanks for those reference pics... the tbss looks like it actually might work. the goats is way different w/ the inlets pointed more downward.

and i agree the ls swap is way cooler than a gen I 350

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by Driveway Dreams

Bob, I gotta put the rest of my bolts in my truck and hook up the wires and drive out to see Fred again. Coming along really nice. GOOD WORK!

Thanks!! I'll be in the shop until 2:30 - 3:00 tomorrow. Come on out!

Originally Posted by menace121978

thanks for those reference pics... the tbss looks like it actually might work. the goats is way different w/ the inlets pointed more downward.

and i agree the ls swap is way cooler than a gen I 350

If I didn't already have everything together as far as I do now I would try a TBSS compressor. It would be really nice to try one on a short block to check for mounting and alignment and stuff like that.

I got a LOT done tonight! My wife took the kids to Colo Springs to pick up a friends son that will be staying with us this weekend, so I had the joint all to myself!

I got the fuel system basically done. I am just waiting on the tanks to get here, and I can get then in. I am a little worried that I didn't get small enough clamps for the 5/16" return hose. I can twist then on the nipple if I really try. I may hook up one tank on the floor just to see if I have any leaks. That way I can have good access to check everything, and if I find no leaks I can get the bed on sooner.

Made a bracket for the trans cooler lines near the front of the engine.

Got the shift linkage hooked up too. Had to do a little tweaking here and there, but it goes into all gears including 1st.

Got almost all the rest of the wires ran to the engine... oil psi, temp, starter. About all I have to wire under the hood is the power wires for the PCM. I still have to do the cluster and the pedal. The pedal will require some modifications to fit right. I think I might try to weld on the original pedal so it looks correct.

I was able to use the battery cables from the 06. The ground worked as-is, the positive needed shortened. I'll pick up a terminal to solder on tomorrow. Also got a wire ran from the alternator over to the battery.

Tomorrow I'll probably work on the exhaust. If that goes well, I may go ahead and get the radiator support on, then I can splice in the front light harness.

The biggest problem so far is the electric fans. They are for the original radiator, which is wider than the 85's. The fans are just as wide as the 06's radiator. So I'll probably hit some yards next weekend to find some fans.

I'm aiming for trying to fire him up by next Sunday or the following Saturday. I REALLY want to drive him in on our Colorado cruise on the 27th!

[menace121978]

Holy crap!!! thats awesome progress for just 1 night alone!!! looks really good buddy... more than 1/2 way home

[JohnC]

Looks awesome man. I think just for the piece of mind I would go ahead and get tighter clamps for the hose. Just because it doesn't leak now, doesn't mean it won't after having some time on the road. It's coming along nicely.

[glock35ipsc]

Yeah John, I think I will order smaller clamps. I have an extra box each of the larger and smaller clamps, so I will return those for credit and get a box of the next size smaller. The only FI clamps anyone sells around here is in an assortment pack, so I'll get one so I can put the right size clamps on the tanks at least, then I can install them Wednesday night when they get here. The others will be easy to get to and replace even with the bed on.

Dennis - It's amazing what I can get done when I don't have my two extra "helpers". That was about 5 hours of peaceful work last night.

[menace121978]

i was just noticing you ended up going w/ just 1 filter/regulator. and how far up the frame rail to the engine is going to be high psi. rubber hose? man that looks a whole lot simpler than i imagined! 1 more question, are you going to use rubber hose to connect to the sending unit and hard line for the passenger side also? okay i lied 1 more, how many 37* flares did you have to make going with mostly high psi hose? i guess you had to make 2 on just the trans cooler lines alone...

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by menace121978

i was just noticing you ended up going w/ just 1 filter/regulator. #1and how far up the frame rail to the engine is going to be high psi. rubber hose? man that looks a whole lot simpler than i imagined! 1 more question, #2are you going to use rubber hose to connect to the sending unit and hard line for the passenger side also? okay i lied 1 more, #3how many 37* flares did you have to make going with mostly high psi hose? i guess you had to make 2 on just the trans cooler lines alone...

#1 High PSI hose all the way to the engine, really isn't that far.

#2 Yes, rubber from the pass side SU to the valve, and I used the OEM hard lines to run across from the drivers side.

#3 Yup, 2 on the cooler lines, and 1 on the output side of the filter.

[glock35ipsc]

Whew, busy day!! Got a TON done again.

I need to get in the shower and head to town, but quick overview:

- Exhaust hooked up
- Driveshaft in
- Rad support on, grill on, radiator in, rad hoses on
- Almost ALL wiring done, cruise hooked up, fuse block and PCM relay installed and wired. I just need to wire the fuel pump relay, and modify then mount the pedal, and crimp a ring terminal to the starter end of the battery cable.

If it wasn't for needing the correct AN fittings for the trans cooler, I could fire it tomorrow!!!!!!!

7 total working days so far!!!!!!