Porterbuilt Dropmember

[ddubbs]

Mine looked the same way. Trans crossmember was at the top portion of the frame. I also have the body drop so I had to rework the trans tunnel and back part of the floor. I still need to get a driveline. I imagine that Dave or Nate will get back in touch with you on Monday. I know they have been extremely slammed with business. Once you get it figured out please post up your outcome to resolve. Thanks

[Woodnears]

I most definitely will post what makes it all works. I'm confident new mounts will do the trick.

[Woodnears]

Ok, I used the mounts sent with the dropmember. After reading the driveline guide from porterbuilt a few times it all started making sense. I'll admit in my mind it wasn't adding up but once I put it to paper it all worked out. After a trip to the metal yard for some odds and ends I started playing around adding different stock here and there. After a few hours working through the proper equation it all worked out and everyone lined up perfectly.

Here's what I have. Please excuse the crude drawing, I went through a stack of paper getting it right.

Basicly I ended up putting a 2" spacer under the cpp transmission cross member.
Added a 2 3/8 spacer under the carrier bearing and set the trailing arms in the second hole from the top. I hope it's right. Right now I'm using square tubing to space the trans and carrier. I'm gonna try to find someone to make me something a little nicer to use.

[rip2174]

just want to post a few pics and get feedback? these pics are when aired out and the upper shock mounts where suggested to place. Against the original upper shock mount bump.

[BigDaddyV]

Not to that part of my project yet, but almost looks like it could move fwd on the frame a little more... Im sure more peeps that have done this already will pipe in. looking good though!

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by rip2174

just want to post a few pics and get feedback? these pics are when aired out and the upper shock mounts where suggested to place. Against the original upper shock mount bump.

Attachment 1285857Attachment 1285858
Attachment 1285859Attachment 1285860
Attachment 1285861

Typically there is less room between the shock and the upper control arm shaft. I want to say it's closer to the 3/8" mark. This yields a much nicer angle.

I sent an email this morning offering this information, however failed to realize that the bump in the frame where the original shock stud is located will stop the bracket. On occasion we find some pretty big tolerance differences from frame to frame on these trucks. This might be what we are running into. Do me a favor and send me a new email at tech@pbfab.com and we will see if we can't figure out a solution that gets the angle more desirable without cutting or redrilling on your freshly painted frame. I would like to see the angle a little better than what you're showing.

Nate

[rip2174]

Originally Posted by Porterbuilt Street Rods

Typically there is less room between the shock and the upper control arm shaft. I want to say it's closer to the 3/8" mark. This yields a much nicer angle.

I sent an email this morning offering this information, however failed to realize that the bump in the frame where the original shock stud is located will stop the bracket. On occasion we find some pretty big tolerance differences from frame to frame on these trucks. This might be what we are running into. Do me a favor and send me a new email at tech@pbfab.com and we will see if we can't figure out a solution that gets the angle more desirable without cutting or redrilling on your freshly painted frame. I would like to see the angle a little better than what you're showing.

Nate

Yes I got your email and like where you want to go with fix. But im ok if I need to move bracket. Don't want to repaint but can if it's needed.
Again thank you for your great customer service.

[nibs]

Ok, Im having trouble, hopefully someone can help!!!

I have an "extreme" DM and installing an LS/4L60E combo. I am installing it with the cab on, front clip off. Im having interference issues with both the cylinder heads hitting the firewall, and the trans hitting the pinch welds in the tunnel.

Anyone have some insight into what might be my problem???

[Rusbuilt]

Do you have any pictures? Are you running a high hump trans tunnel?

[nibs]

Originally Posted by Rusbuilt

Do you have any pictures? Are you running a high hump trans tunnel?

I dont, but I can get them... Im running just the standard trans tunnel. Am I going to need the high hump??

[Rusbuilt]

Yes. The high hump is a must with a dropmember/Ls combo. As far as your heads hitting the firewall we will need to see pics. I have a 6.0 in my dually with the extreme dropmember and I ordered engine mounts from Nate that were shorter. You may need those too.

[nibs]

Here are the pics of what im running into...

Trans to pinch welds


LH side. I got 1 bolt in, this is how the rest line up



LH rear head to firewall


RH rear head to firewall


Engine mount height


I dont think that a high hump would really resolve this issue, but then again, I wasnt expecting this bad of fitment

[nibs]

Originally Posted by Rusbuilt

Yes. The high hump is a must with a dropmember/Ls combo. As far as your heads hitting the firewall we will need to see pics. I have a 6.0 in my dually with the extreme dropmember and I ordered engine mounts from Nate that were shorter. You may need those too.

This would have been a HUGE benefit to know when I ordered this from Nate... Along with the fact that the e-brake cable mounts weren't on the rear trailing arms. Only to find out after powdercoating, that they are an extra $100 and they require to be welded on.

Overall, Im pretty much regretting this purchase :/

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by nibs

This would have been a HUGE benefit to know when I ordered this from Nate... Along with the fact that the e-brake cable mounts weren't on the rear trailing arms. Only to find out after powdercoating, that they are an extra $100 and they require to be welded on.

Overall, Im pretty much regretting this purchase :/

Jrod-

Shoot me an email tech@pbfab.com and we can discuss an easy solution to take care of the motor to firewall clearance.

In regards to the large hump, I apologize if you feel that it wasn't properly communicated to you. It's all over our instructions, website, and every build thread on the forum.

Nate

[aggie91]

From looking at your pictures, NIBS, it looks like if you get the high hump trans tunnel, your firewall issues should go away. It looks to me if you get the trans to move up higher, the cylinder heads will move AWAY from the firewall.

[nibs]

Originally Posted by aggie91

From looking at your pictures, NIBS, it looks like if you get the high hump trans tunnel, your firewall issues should go away. It looks to me if you get the trans to move up higher, the cylinder heads will move AWAY from the firewall.

Yea, I contacted Nate, and I got the revised mounts coming(1" shorter, plus I will have to change to a high hump tunnel...

Thanks for the help again Nate! You are a stand-up business owner, you will continue to receive my business

[allons]

I wanted a PB front end in the worst way, and I ordered the parts, but after 8+ weeks and no parts, I gotta go elsewhere.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by allons

I wanted a PB front end in the worst way, and I ordered the parts, but after 8+ weeks and no parts, I gotta go elsewhere.

Yep, it does take a while for your kit to be built, but the quality and performance are worth it. No worries though, if you must step out of line another guy will get his kit sooner. No harm no foul. If I were in your shoes... Oh wait I have been (mild front and rear w/coilovers)... I'd talk with the folks at PBFab moving up the chain until you get a satisfactory outcome. Just my 2¢. No matter how you proceed, good luck with your build.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by allons

I wanted a PB front end in the worst way, and I ordered the parts, but after 8+ weeks and no parts, I gotta go elsewhere.

I've waited 12 weeks for front shocks and mounts.
Well worth the wait.
I'm sure there are other things you can be doing on your build.
Its all in the planning when you order Porterbuilt products.
They are SUPER busy for a reason.
QUALITY products.

[jtp67-72]

Nibs ,can u tell me what pan that is ......looks deeper in the front than the f-body pan...and unless Nate has changed his format u will need that xtra clearance over the rack....It looks way high now and that's what has me puzzled.....maybe because you've got the tailshaft way low because of hump...anyway when u get rear up and lower brackets pay close attention to the area above rack.......been there........jim

[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by allons

I wanted a PB front end in the worst way, and I ordered the parts, but after 8+ weeks and no parts, I gotta go elsewhere.

What about one of the vendors on the forum that sell Porterbuit .... They might have what you need in stock. I believe Laidback Recreations and Pro Performance are Porterbuilt Dealers .

If for some reason you dont get something figured out give me a call at 918-845-1935 .

[Ghostwhite]

Picked up my PB stuff today, haven't even had time to un-box anything but definitely worth the wait. Waited just over 10 weeks but I had C30 parts with extras.

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I've waited 12 weeks for front shocks and mounts.
Well worth the wait.
I'm sure there are other things you can be doing on your build.
Its all in the planning when you order Porterbuilt products.
They are SUPER busy for a reason.
QUALITY products.

Keith nailed it on the head. I knew going in I was going to have to wait but wasn't a big deal because I had plenty of other stuff to work on with my truck. Porterbuilt is worth the wait as the products are super nice and high quality.

[Rochlow]

In 25 years of ordering parts by mail order, PBFAB and Nate are by far hands down the best company I've ever dealt with.

I think every person building a Porterbuilt truck has run into a problem or two, given the different variables in the process, (different motors, trans, brakes, wheels). However, Nate is the only person I can send a text to at 8pm on a Sunday night regarding a problem I was encountering and get a response to address the issue.

[bodydropped68]

Every piece of my PBFAB extreme dropmember suspenision with inner frame stiffener is top notch quality I waited about 12 weeks and Nates customer service is second to none. Will definitely be ordering again for my next project.