Project: Shiro

[Number98]

The firewall looks really good!

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Nice work Buck!

Originally Posted by cericd

Highlander plaid interior?!?

Sweet!!!

Originally Posted by Number98

The firewall looks really good!

Thanks guys! I am learning a lot, discovering mistakes I've made in the past. The main one being, In my mind I see the finished product being a perfectly metal finished firewall waiting for a some high build primer, a quick sand and shiny white paint. The truth is, it's going to be a jagged, bumpy, wavy firewall that some poor body man is going to have to straighten out for me. The take away for me is to stop grinding when it gets close and let the experienced guy take it from there. I want to "cap" the wire well next so I will be looking for a place to buy some good 18 gauge steel and researching how others have done it in the past... should be interesting! Thanks for following along!

[jmedero]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=378084&page=8

I actually cut the lip off and stich welded it.

[lolife99]

I never have understood what you do "inside" the "boxed" gutter rail to prevent rust.
Weldable primer?
Is that never going to rust?
Just trying to understand.

I see tons of threads where they grind to bare metal and then cap off and box an area,... then complete the bodywork and paint process.
What keeps it from rusting and bubbling thru later?
Same for any area of the truck that is welded shut.
How do you rust proof the backside?

[jmedero]

Main reason I just cut my lip rail off.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by jmedero

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=378084&page=8

I actually cut the lip off and stich welded it.

Originally Posted by lolife99

I never have understood what you do "inside" the "boxed" gutter rail to prevent rust.
Weldable primer?
Is that never going to rust?
Just trying to understand.

I see tons of threads where they grind to bare metal and then cap off and box an area,... then complete the bodywork and paint process.
What keeps it from rusting and bubbling thru later?
Same for any area of the truck that is welded shut.
How do you rust proof the backside?

Originally Posted by jmedero

Main reason I just cut my lip rail off.

I have been pondering that for the last few days. The first thought was weld through primer, but I don't know how it would help with the rust I can't sand/grind off. I have also considered ospho which would convert the existing rust but not necessarily seal it. Then there is POR15, which will convert the rust and seal it, but what will it do when you weld near it? That's where I am now... It would be cool if Nate Porter or Keith Stephens could weigh in as they might have some insight.

[C10_ustacould]

Replacement dash for Shiro??

[nlped]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

Replacement dash for Shiro??

Attachment 1361973

Why not an A/C dash?

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by nlped

Why not an A/C dash?

I don't like the factory side vents, I'll use smaller vintage air vents similar the ones I used on the green stepper.

[cericd]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

I don't like the factory side vents, I'll use smaller vintage air vents similar the ones I used on the green stepper.

Why don't you like the factory side vents? Too bulky?

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by cericd

Why don't you like the factory side vents? Too bulky?

Exactly, the Vintage Air and Billet Specialties vents are smaller and blend very well with the factory styling in my opinion.

[C10_ustacould]

OKay... silly question time. I have the cab back on the frame and torqued down and I want to make sure I have a handle on this sheet metal repair process. I'm going to leave the doors on for the moment and start by drilling out the spot rivets in the outer rocker. Once they are out of the way I will remove the inner rocker and however much of the floor I want to replace as well as the lower portion of the kick panels. Once I am to this point I just fit my panels to what I have cut out and work it in reverse order. I know this is a simplistic view, but it will help bring out any special advice any of you may have. So what do you think, am I on the right track. I hope I can muster the testicular fortitude to knock this out myself, if not maybe I give the guys at Nsane Hot Rodz a call!

[sduckworth13]

Buck here are some pictures from my first cab I did. Measure, measure, measure

[sduckworth13]

Sorry about the individual pictures, I'm on my phone.

[sduckworth13]

Welded in.

[sduckworth13]

Make sure you measure from the floor to the lip of the inner rocker where the outer rocker sits in. Then weld your inner rocker in, then your kick panel, then the lower door pillar then your outer rocker. Buck, I probably test fit my door 50x before I got the gap of the outer rocker where I wanted it before I finally welded it in.

[sduckworth13]

Here is the final pic.

[C10_ustacould]

Thanks for the visuals Scott!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

Thanks for the visuals Scott!

So there you go, I expect one side to be done by the weekend.....

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

So there you go, I expect one side to be done by the weekend.....

Sure, that means we should count you in for dinner the rest of the week. The least I could do is feed you if you are going to be here every night.

The one thing I just though about was the cab corner, where does that fit in the timeline? It looks like it tucks under the aft end of the outer rocker so I'm guessing it can be laid out and cut anytime after the outer rocker and go back in after the inner rocker is installed?

[sduckworth13]

Good luck Buck, your welds looked great on the firewall panel so I think your way ahead of the curve and won't have any issues. Just measure a lot and you'll be good. I'm about to start tearing into my new cab and will probably be doing similar repairs again. I won't know anything till I get the outer rocker off, its pretty cold here so I'm going to put it off until it warms up enough to open the garage doors.

[GAc10boy]

Been going back through and reading your build, Buck. You're making killer progress! I am a bit confused on one thing: did you decide to switch to bags or keep the coilovers? I'm sure I missed it but thought I'd just ask.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by GAc10boy

Been going back through and reading your build, Buck. You're making killer progress! I am a bit confused on one thing: did you decide to switch to bags or keep the coilovers? I'm sure I missed it but thought I'd just ask.

Keeping the coilovers.

Ordered ebfabman's sheet metal repair videos to aid in the rust repair effort. Hopefully the rust repair goes well and I can get it blown apart for paint and powdercoat soon.

[C10_ustacould]

Fooled around in the shop this afternoon...

Actually started the other day, I wanted to see what was lurking behind the cab corners so I cut a hole in the driver's side and pulled out a bunch of what I guess is seam sealer and a hairball. Yuk!


Then I wanted to see how the spot weld bit worked... Worked too well on the top one!


Then I figured I would cut a hole in the rocker and take a look and see how much of the inner rocker was corroded...


The area where the outer laps over the inner rocker was pretty corroded and the seal retailer lip was rotted away, so why not remove that too, right? A lot of light coming through there.


After drilling out a bunch of spot welds the outer rocker is off! Not sure at this point if I am going to change the inner rocker or just patch it. We'll have to wait and see.

[C10_ustacould]

One spot that has me freaking out is the lower pillar, its pretty hammered.

This thing is swiss cheese...


... more cheese


I was trying to abracadabra this thing on there but none of the spells I knew worked , I guess I'll have to do it with actual work.