69 c10 starting problems

[ilovetara]

Oh okay, my rotor is pointing at the number one on the engine. I will try to change that and see what happens

[FarmTruk]

Good luck with it. I've been following this post, and can't wait for ya to git her running.

[ilovetara]

Ok got the rotor pointing at the number 1. Poured a little bit of gas into the carb and it fired! but then died 2 seconds later. I am going to take out the little fuel filter in the carb to see if that is blocking the fuel from coming in. Other than that, maybe just lots of adjustments to the carb.

I'll keep ya'll posted!

[chopper103in]

run a wire from the pos side of your battery to the pos side of coil and then cross your wires for spinning the starter

[lytemup454]

i had the same problem in my 72. i pulled the float and pick up out of my tank used air compressor to blow out all of the sludge build up that had plugged it. picked up new rubber lines from parts store( they have fuel line by the rolls there) replaced it from there to the new pump i put on . i also blew out the metal line from the pump to the carb, and rebuilt the carb. by then the fuel situation was covederd i set the points and got it to run, but not very good. i then replaced the points with the kit from lmc (think i paid $70)that converts to hei. it ran like a top after that. i could even scrach second!!!! good luck

[FarmTruk]

Originally Posted by ilovetara

Ok got the rotor pointing at the number 1. Poured a little bit of gas into the carb and it fired! but then died 2 seconds later. I am going to take out the little fuel filter in the carb to see if that is blocking the fuel from coming in. Other than that, maybe just lots of adjustments to the carb.

I'll keep ya'll posted!

If you just rebuilt the carb, did you put a new filter in? If so, that shouldn't be the problem. Have you blown air
back thru your fuel lines to clear any possible obstructions? If you do, be sure to loosen the gas cap, or the fuel tank will become pressurized, and gas will absolutely GUSH out. (don't ask me how i know)

[ilovetara]

Okay I will try to blow out the fuel lines or just replace them. I really want to change over to electronic ignition but not exactly sure what year of distributor will work. Lordco, the parts store, wants to charge me $150 with my discount for a new one.

I will look at the truck tomorrow and post my findings.


Thanks all!

[FarmTruk]

Originally Posted by ilovetara

I really want to change over to electronic ignition but not exactly sure what year of distributor will work. Lordco, the parts store, wants to charge me $150 with my discount for a new one.

There's been a couple threads on the board about different HEI dizzys. I especially remember an eBay seller who had a great price and everyone seems to love em. Around $55 delivered, iirc. They look alot like MSD units.

Link http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...light=hei+ebay

[truckdude239]

to tell u the truth sounds like the carb need to be rebuilt or replaced here you go http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...ype=26&ptset=A

85 buxs for a new carb 30 dollar core charge if the carb has been sitting more then likely the gas in the carb went bad and is sludged in the carb and will not let gas flow thought it

[ilovetara]

Yeah i just rebuilt the carb though. All new gaskets, seals etc...

I will look on ebay for that HEI, thanks for that.

As far as running a wire from the pos side of your battery to the pos side of coil and then cross your wires for spinning the starter, what will this do? and what do you mean by crossing your wires??

[ilovetara]

Hey all, not posted on this thread in a while. I have been ripping my truck apart and not looking at the motor at all. So.... My truck still won't start. I think I am missing something small. Can anyone shed some light here on what I might be missing?

Thanks!

[sea chief]

I picked up a 292 K-20 for 200 bucks a couple of years ago and got it running with 8 year old gas in about 30 minutes. with new points, plugs ect you are almost there. Try this: disconnect the neg wire to the coil, run a wire from battery positve to the positive side of coil. hold coil "Spark plug" wire over the coil bracket while using a screwdriver to ground out the negitive side of the coil. Each time you ground the coil and let off you should get spark. If not coil is bad. You also need to check the wire that goes from dist to coil. They are easy to pinch on these distributors.

[1lowdiesel]

when yousay rebuilt carb. what did you do just put new gaskets on it? where are you running for a tank? are you running it off a bottle?

do you have a digital camera that you could take video of it cranking?

[ilovetara]

Okay, have the original gas tank in there. I have replaced coil, points, condenser, plugs, wires blah blah blah. I could forsure take a video clip of the engine cranking over.

[1lowdiesel]

how does the gas look if you pump it into a cup?

[Kager67]

I think this was asked earlier, but what is your gas supply? Are you using the original in cab tank or what? What I would do first is run a rubber gas line from the intake side of your fuel pump to a one gallon gas can. Then take off the line at the carb. Put a see-through bottle or jug of some sort on that, then turn it over(I would recommend disabling your ignition first). If you are getting gas to that point you know your gas problem is in your carb. I've had brand new pumps not pump gas. If its in your carb, make sure you double check your float and needle/seat. When you went through your carb, did you take it completely apart? For a carb that has sat that long you need to, at a minimum, spray carb cleaner through every little hole and port on it (soaking it would be better). I had to do this twice to my Q-jet on my blazer to get it running. Good luck.

kage

[ilovetara]

Yes I have an in-cab tank. New gas, I took the carb completely apart and soaked it then clean the crap out of it. I think my new fuel pump is not working correctly though. When I take the fuel line off the pump, then have someone crank the engine... fuel comes out then stops.

There is spark. I don't think the fuel is getting to the carb. Have tried using starting fluid.. tries to fire then no go.

I am only going to give it a couple more tries then I am going to pull the engine and tranny.

[Kager67]

I would try using the gas can trick. This way you will know if the problem is between the pump and carb, or between the tank and the pump. Old rubber fuel line can get rotten and with suction, actually close off fuel flow. Also, the pickup in the tank can plug up as well as the sock on the end of it. By eliminating these things, you will have a better idea what needs to be fixed during reassembly. Good luck.

kage

[ilovetara]

Ok I will try that and see what results I get.

THanks

[ilovetara]

Tried a few things today. One thing that I know, my new fuel pump is not pumping the fuel. So..... Poured a little bit of gas down the carb, had someone start the truck, Engine cranks...backfiring out of the carb, see fire spark out of the carb, sounds like its sputtering or backfiring. After the fuel is gone from the carb, the engine just cranks over and doesn't start. I repositioned my distributor again, set my rotor to #1 on the cap, checked plug wires for spark... all good. Coil is good, took out all plugs, checked gap, all good.

I feel like I am missing something small, but don't know what it is.

[ilovetara]

Does anyone know how to set the dwell properly?


Thanks

[raiden7800]

It almost sounds to me like you may be 180 degrees out on your timing. I spent a whole weekend trying to get my 292 running correctly. If you havent already pulled the engine and tranny, try the gas can trick. If there is no gas, put the old fuel pump back in and try again. If that is a no go, take the new one back for a replacement. If you finally come across one that will pump fuel, then make sure that the lines going to your in cab tank are clear. With the cap off, blow through it with an air compessor nozzle electrical taped to the fuel line (to prevent leaks at the entry site) and listen to see if you can hear the air coming through into the fuel tank. If you can, then the lines are probably ok.

Put some more fuel in the tank (at least 5 gallons), and then leave the fuel line coming out of the pump unhooked, crank and see if the magical starting fluid comes out. The longer you crank, the more gas will come out, it should not stop if the engine is cranking. If all is well there, hook it up to the carb. Try a regular rubber hose first, since that way there is no chance of a clogged filter. Crank 'er over and pump the throttle a few times, get out, and see if there is fuel on the butterfly plates. If so, then give 'er a little sip from a gas can, and see if she lights. If it starts backfiring massively, move the distributor a bit in advance, until either the backfiring stops, or there is no more adjustment to be made. If you go all the way and it still backfires, you are either 180 degrees off on timing, or you have the sparkplugs miswired. The firing order should 1-5-3-6-2-4. If you get fuel, have this Firing order, and have the real TDC on number 1, then it should at least sputter for longer than 2 seconds.

[retodd7711]

did you ever do a compression test? You may have a hole in a piston or broken rings. Backfiring may come from miswired spark plug wires. Did you try moving distributor while cranking?