Finally starting my 5.3 swap!!

[AGearHead4Life]

That blue looks great!

I may be late to joing the show but you should check out the CTSV pan. It give more clearance then the truck. It sits 1" lower then the F-body pan. I'll be using it on my current C10 swap. I ran the truck pan on my last swap and it did hang pretty low. It'll depend on what size tire/wheels you're running and how high off the ground you are. Mine was lowered 4" and didnt have an issue, but I had 275/45/20's on it. Those wheels raised the ride height. I drove it a year like that with not issues before it was stolen. Get good securtiy BTW.

Sometimes your computer software will auto rotate the photo for viewing but the acutal file wont change. So when you upload it, it is still at an angle. You have to go to the actual file, rotate it and save it.

The project looks good man! Congrats on the progress! I like that Rusto paint job to.

[ivorton74]

Thanks for the advice man...i'll look into the cts-v oil pan. the front is dropped 4.5 and the front tires are 215/60/15...the front cross-member sits really low so I could imagine how low the oil pan is. After the swap im gonna start looking into body panels. im looking for a nice rust free box and possibly a front clip.

[ivorton74]

Update...so made a little progress yesterday and today. had to drill new holes for my tranny mount on the crossmember and the tranny is mounted finally. Mocked up the radiator and cold air intake to see how much room there is...its kinda tight but it will work. The 5.3 top radiator hose don't fit on my stock sbc radiator...I read here on a few threads that it works...maybe someone could tell me what to do about this...installed my power steering pulley, fan and belt. Also removed the stock fuel lines and mounted the fuel pump.
Today I just got the starter wires and battery cable on and got the right exhaust manifold back on...had to take it off the access the starter. Looks like my driveshaft is too short so need to get it lengthened....decided to mount the pcm on the inner fender instead of inside the truck. That's about as far as I got.

Heres some pics...got to see what the motor looks like under the hood. EXCITING!!

[dman1982]

I think when I put my rad hose on I shortened it and was tight going on

[ivorton74]

well I need a new radiator anyway...I was using this one for the mock up. hopefully it fits the new one.

[dman1982]

Originally Posted by ivorton74

well I need a new radiator anyway...I was using this one for the mock up. hopefully it fits the new one.

Maybe...going aftermarket or a new stock one?

[ivorton74]

Just a new stock one.

[dman1982]

Makes sense man...no need to go all crazy with a rad if it's another stock engine

[ivorton74]

True dat...i need to get that as soon as possible...all that needs to be done now is finish up the harness...send off the driveshaft to get lengthened and new u joints...run the fuel lines...mount the pcm and fuse blocks...hook up the power steering lines...get a broken header bolt out on the driver side so the manifold could go on...those are the main things.

[dman1982]

All that will only take about a hour lol

[ivorton74]

lol it took me about an hour and a half to figure out that stupid starter wire today. that wiring was really puzzling. Good thing those guys at the shop are helping me or else i'd be totally lost. If I had more time today I probably would have had more done.

[dman1982]

With the wiring I think the hardest thing was remembering how to use a multimeter, luckily the guy that did my harness help through the wiring process

[ivorton74]

So I gotta get my driveshaft lengthened. where do I have to measure from? im kinda nervous about that.

[dman1982]

I've heard of getting it shortened, not made longer...get a longer one and get it shortened maybe?

[ivorton74]

The guys at the shop said we'll have to send to a driveline shop to get it lengthened. The closest driveline shop is over 120 miles away so we have to ship it out. I was just lookin it up and seen some the got lengthened. I don't know where to measure it from though. It looks like its at least 5 inches too short. Its a one-piece driveshaft btw. Man I thought I wouldn't have to mess with it since I have adjustable mounts(not dirty dingo though). The motor's sitting all the way back.

[ls1nova71]

Generally when measuring for a driveshaft, you measure from the center of the rear u joint cup to the end of the tailshaft on the transmission. BUT, I would call what ever drive line shop you plan to use and ask them what measurement they want, since some shops do things differently. Also, you're going to basically be building a new shaft since you cant lengthen the tube, you'll need to re-tube it, and since that will require them to cut the ends off on a lathe, it may be more cost effective to just have one made, especially if you're planning on shipping your driveshaft to them.

Also, probably should have removed the broken exhaust manifold bolt before putting the engine in the truck, seems like it will be harder to get to now?

[BR3W CITY]

I agree with LS1Nova

I think every guy on earth wishes he could get that "extra 5 inches" with a simple trip to to clinic, but its major surgery lol. Chances are, you'll be paying 180-300 to have it lengthened for you, and when you consider shipping, you probably exceed the cost of a new one.

I had a new thickwall shaft made for my swap. Its 100% brand new, rated to about 800hp, and has HD u-joints (no grease zerg). I payed like $186 for it.


And ya, the broken bolts a heck of a lot easier to get off when its not all installed into the engine bay hehe.

[83 Silverado]

Are you able to set back the motor with the mounts your running?

[ivorton74]

Well the guys at the shop said they'll call the driveline place and see what the options are and they'll let me know. If I end up just have a new driveshaft made so be it. Don't want to be doing anything half a**ed. As for the broken header bolt the cab is not on the truck so there's no problem accessing it lol... in the pics the cab was just sitting on the frame. They put the cab back on to roll it out the shop when they need to use the lift. I ordered new cab mounts so the cabs not going back on yet....plus we still have the fuel system n stuff to complete and we're doing those with the cab off.
@83 Silverado...I have the motor set all the way back. ..these adapter plates are not the greatest...I should have gone with dirty dingo ones but oh well...

[dman1982]

I just picked one up from a 95 or so camaro...I'll let you know how it goes

[ivorton74]

Originally Posted by dman1982

I just picked one up from a 95 or so camaro...I'll let you know how it goes

ok

[AGearHead4Life]

Originally Posted by ivorton74

So I gotta get my driveshaft lengthened. where do I have to measure from? im kinda nervous about that.

You should be able to swap out your motor mount adapter plates to fix this. At least thats what i'd do. One because I dont like having to get a driveshaft made. I also like being able to just pull one from another truck if I ever needed to in the future.

My buddy recently had this problem. His adapter plates were a "central" style location. You need the ones titled "one inch set back" plates. They place the engine in place so that you can reuse the stock driveshaft. I was able to swap out the plates without pulling the motor. Just pick one side up at a time. I've had to do this for two of my buddy's swaps now.

Here's a link to the plates:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331145143731...84.m1423.l2649

[AGearHead4Life]

Well I just looked back at your plates. They should work. But also realized that you truck probably didnt come with an over drive tans. In that case I'd think that you needed a shorter DS. Is the driveshaft that you're using out of this truck? You should be able to use a driveshaft out of a C10 that came with a OD trans.

[AGearHead4Life]

I know that the plates that I posted a link to have a notch in them to clear the block. Not sure if yours will hit the block when set in the same position. If they do then you have to trim the boss that it hits on the block.

[ivorton74]

Truck had a th350 trans... The plates are 3 position ones that supposed to set 1 inch forward and back and stock position. The ds is the one from the truck.