Rattle can paint job

[MrMFFB]

double post sorry

[MrMFFB]

light sanding pep Paint
other colors
http://www.rustoleumibg.com/product....&snv=1&pid=103

more on how to
How to paint your car with Rustoleum. The right way.

I believe Rustoleum has a tintable base that allows you to mix any colour you wantTINT BASE
you can mix your on like Maroon . Add 4 parts red, 2 parts blue and a 1/2 part black.

SLOWLY add the secondary color and stir until you get just slightly lighter than you want.
Paint almost always dries darker than the paint in the can

[cayoterun]

Our local Ace store can mix any color you want. You can take a paint color no bigger than your finger nail. It can be paper, paint chip, or about anything smooth. They have a machine that will read it, then print out the formula. They can then mix it for you.
I've had them do it several times with good results. I really like it on about anything, except a nice shiny car paint job. I have used it on dashs and interior metal on some of the nicer cars we've fixed up in the past. Sanded the paint with fine sandpaper, then clear coated it. Came out nice.
Cayoterun

[motornut]

Good idea
I 'd want it cleared my red went real chalky
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[DetroitDan]

I don't know how much I like the clear coat idea. First, it makes it so you can't easily tough up a scratch, secondly, I have trouble trusting anything that comes out of a rattle can. It just has no adhesion, in my experience anything I've ever rattle canned has worn or washed off. It did look like a good result in the video though. I wish he'd spent a little less time walking around showing the fender, and a little more time showing technique. I'd like to have seen how long he's spending on each area and what finish he's looking for after each coat and after each sanding.

I tend to disagree with using a sanding block for wetsanding. I always use one for dry sanding, but it's a little too easy to screw things up with fine grit wetsanding. I wrap the wetsand paper around a rag, then when I dunk it in water it holds a bunch, and I can squeeze it as needed for a little extra water. I generally keep a spray bottle of water right handy too. The rag keeps you from rubbing finger marks into the paint through the sand paper, but theres no edges like on a rigid block.

I think the hair dryer is a good idea in theory, but it's certainly not necessary and looks like it would get tiring. If you have a big bubble problem, you can either check and adjust your mix, let the paint settle longer after stirring, even lay a paper towel on top of the paint to kill the frothy bubbles in the tray if you have any. Use a blue shop towel, not a household paper towel, they are too linty. Like I said before, bubbles can be easily helped along by lightly coasting the roller across it a minute after applying. I always make it part of my procedure anyway, it gets the bubbles and flattens out the lines from the edge of the roller. They say you can blow on the bubbles too, but I never had to. What I've found is if you're getting too many (some is normal) bubbles, and your mix is ok, then it is because you are going too fast. The guy in the video looked to me like he was rolling very fast, and using little short jerky motions. I go a lot slower and do like an arms length stroke.

The procedure I know suggests waxing twice a year, I would expect that would keep it from getting faded and chalky. Red is the first color to fade because of it's pigmentation, but I don't think it would fade and turn to dust if it was applied right and waxed. Not sure how being under a layer of clear coat would affect that, I suspect it might fade any way, but you couldn't take a layer of chalky dead paint off by waxing because the clearcoat was in the way. Probably wouldn't fade quite as fast though..

I am psyched to get back working on mine now. My new cheapy Harbor Freight buffer came today, I had been borrowing buffers but had to give them back a while ago. Thanks for giving me some motivation!

[bigwheel15]

Ive had my eye on this technique for the last few years, I think I just may pick up a can and practice on a spare hood and fender.

[motornut]

I did this car in fire red rust paint in 90's
i painted it every two /three years cause of the fading
inbetween paints i used a interior polish F21 (look at hood in pic with chairs)
doing this on the paint gave it a fresh paint wet look and feel when touched
i was at a friends wedding and they were dancing on the hood outside a hotel
the next morning all hungover i walked out to a pink hood WTF
the red and the white with the polish had smeared the white to pink around the leaf
a quick repaint and i drove it for years
but the frame went and the car more or less folded
i have to find some of the paint faded, quite a diff

[motornut]

this is how it faded
so this can be avoided? by clear coating over it?
I'm thinkin i might have a red truck later this week!
30+ C it would dry quick

[cayoterun]

Keep sharing the experiences you've had with "rust-stop" and "rustoleum". I've use a good bit of it on farm stuff, both with rattle can and gun. Really like the results I've had, especially in how it adhered, and lasted along time parked out in the weather. For that use, slick and shiny wasn't an issue.
I'm learning stuff about this, keep going.
Our son-in-laws family has a big ace here, and I asked last night at home if for sure they had a clear coat formula for it. He couldn't remember for sure, but I'll check the shelves next time in town. I'm almost sure the clear coat I used on car interior metal was a compatible clear coat I get there. Maybe not.
Cayoterun

[motornut]

I was wondering use it un thinned first ,sand ,and then thin it some and paint again , Ive just wiped with thinner and painted when still wet , full strenght
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[motornut]

went shopping seen this
i'm gona try this before roll on

[muthstryker]

If your going to try that metal specks, I would do one panel at a time and over lap each pass 50%. Do not stop spraying in the middle of the panel and then start again thats how you will get tiger stripping. Basically you have to use the spray paint the same way painters in a paint booth use an actual paint gun.

[motornut]

thats about the plan
figure one can a piece/section
it kinda seemed the same metal flake look cept red
finish cleaning off the "disco" stripes this weekend
dam forecast is rain now so prob next week till paint

[muthstryker]

Keep us posted on how it goes, I bought a 67 Olds Cutlass drag car that im in the middle of doing the sanding/body work on getting ready to paint with budget in mind. Would be nice to see your progress and how it turns out so it opens my options up a little bit.

[motornut]

sure just lookeded it up online
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalSpecks/

[muthstryker]

Ya Ive seen there stuff at the parts store, curious on how it turns out. Might go grab a can and do a test on some peices of sheet metal I have.

[DetroitDan]

I remember when those disco stripes were cool!

Somewhere in the 200 page oddysey that was the rustoleum moparts thread, a guy roller-painted a Dodge two-tone and laid down coats of a metallic silver in between coats, trying for a metallic paint finish. Looked sort of semi-ok I guess. Not great IMO. Thing with the rustoeum is you cant add and roll out metallic, so you're limited to base colors.
I've also noticed the black isn't as black as black auto paint. It looks black enough by itself but I scratched thru it to black paint underneath and the color difference was noticeable. The scratch was jet black and it made the rusto look like a brown or charcoal by comparison. Oh well, it's going to have to do, it's all I can afford, plus I want to prove to some people that it works. I just started working on it again last night, wetsanded about 1/3 of the truck. Got a lot to do, the hood and roof only have one coat, and the sides have two. If I could just work steady on it for a week I'd be done, but it ends up getting back-burnered for weeks or months at a time.

And it's such a gigantic truck, it's really a big undertaking. I really want to do a two tone Silverado paint scheme on it, black with a dark red or maroon stripe, but idk if I'll try to paint the stripe or have something metallic sprayed on. Only rustoleum maroon is a special order color called burgundy, I got a spray can and tested it on an old door, and I can't decide if it's what I want or not. So I'll do the truck all black first and then give it some more thought.

[DetroitDan]

Motornut, are you going to try to do the whole truck that way, or in conjunction with the roller painting? If you're spraybombing the whole truck it's going to take a lot of coverage. I'd spraybomb prime it with red oxide first to cover up the blue. If you're doing it together with roller paint, just lay a couple coats of color down as a base and that should cover up the blue so you're not wasting the metal flake.

[motornut]

I went to buy a gallon of (armour coat rust paint $26.00)saw this ($14.00)figured I'd try it before
was gona try without a primer(looked at primer but the paint label didn't say to primer,most others did)
and the blue is very faded light
one fender to start
if it looks ok i'll do the truck,and maybe needs a clear coat too,if not it's a roll on tremclad

[motornut]

Yup primer needed
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[1tonchevy]

How much of the roll on stuff would be needed for a CC long box dually?

[motornut]

I think one gallon wouldn't be enough,even with thinning
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[1tonchevy]

Originally Posted by motornut

I think one gallon wouldn't be enough,even with thinning
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oh i don't mind if i need 2

[motornut]

in trying to keep the mix the same i was wondering how much to remove from a gallon (if too full,with adding thinner)or add (thinner)to one gallon to get a good flow

[1tonchevy]

So i'm going to try this roll on paint job here maby next weekend. if i can find the paint in safty orange and the mineral spirits.

where can i find this stuff and what all do i need? like a complete list sand paper (whats grits) etc and help would be great and in turn i will document the whole thing from start to finish