1952 1 Ton Rebuild

[coralhead]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Ha ha thanks,
Yeah, I had my suspicions a couple weeks ago, but I didn't want to mention it, because I didn't want to be misleading.
My first clue was the straight frame, second was the foot e brake as opposed to the hand brake, and the 8 lug wheels/full floating axle
Plus it looks like it holds a 9ft bed.

But when its all said and done, who can tell the difference?

3600's have the 8 lug free floating rear axle and foot operated e-brake as well. Not sure about the brakes being different from 3/4 to 1 ton but will assume they are different.

Looking at your existing runningboards, if the look like they were cut off after they left the factory you mave have had a box on the back. If they appear to have short running boards, I would say that the truck left the assembly line bare and then a flat bed may have been installed.

If you run the ident tag number you will be able to tell what you have.

[mechanixman]

They're short running boards.
I read somewhere that either 51 or 52 1 ton and up trucks started having foot brakes. 3/4 ton the next year joined in.

Can you tell me anything about the bumper mounts? When I look through parts catalouges and such, I never see, to find the same style bracket.

[coralhead]

I know this is going against what I feel but with all the changes that you are possibly looking at doing you may be better off doing an s10 swap. It may be a bit more work but finding parts for a 1 ton may be more expensive than finding a junked donor s-10. More people on this site have a lot more info on this type of path.

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

Can you tell me anything about the bumper mounts? When I look through parts catalouges and such, I never see, to find the same style bracket.

Are you asking about front bumper mounts? If so, they're much different than the 1/2 ton ones. Those cast pieces on the frame horns bolt to a 3/8" thick bar that then mounts to the bumper. I believe 3800's didn't have a rear bumper, the farmers who bought them put a bumper specific to their needs on them.

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by coralhead

I know this is going against what I feel but with all the changes that you are possibly looking at doing you may be better off doing an s10 swap. It may be a bit more work but finding parts for a 1 ton may be more expensive than finding a junked donor s-10. More people on this site have a lot more info on this type of path.

What parts would you be talking about?
I like the idea of staying with the same frame, because
1 it's massive. I think it'll be a lot stronger than an s10 frame. especially when I box it.

2 it's a straight frame. So I don't need to worry about about where the rear axle correlates to the frame. If I need to move it forward an inch or two,I can do that without any real consequences. And it makes it easier to install a bed. (at least I think, correct me if I'm wrong) I believe the bed mounts will be all the same. Again, not needing to worry about the "humps" in the frame to clear the axle.

Why would it be more expensive?
As far as I can tell, almost everything is interchangeable with 3/4 ton parts, which don't seem to be too pricey.

I don't want to sound rude, I just don't understand the cons of the 1 ton frame.
Thanks

[ChevyBrad]

I just bought a '52 3800 with a nine foot bed and my truck has a hand emergency brake. I personally think it is just cooler to stay with the original frame but, just my opinion.

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by ChevyBrad

I just bought a '52 3800 with a nine foot bed and my truck has a hand emergency brake. I personally think it is just cooler to stay with the original frame but, just my opinion.

And so far, I'm likin that opinion.
I was looking at the running boards, and at first glance, they seem to be factory, but I was looking at the end, and it seems like they cut the running board. I'll post pics tomorrow

[coralhead]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

And so far, I'm likin that opinion.
I was looking at the running boards, and at first glance, they seem to be factory, but I was looking at the end, and it seems like they cut the running board. I'll post pics tomorrow

I am an advocate of keeping the frame stock but I am not sure what your plans are for the truck. If it is going to be an everyday driver you will probably going to be switching out the rear end since it is most likely a 4:57 and quite possibly a lower ratio than that since it is a 3800. You will be probably going to have to get a 6lug or find an 8lug that will fit your width needs. 6 lugs are easier to find. With that being said you will then have 6 lugs on the rear and 8 lugs on the front. If that is fine then OK. If not you will need to change out the front hubs for a 6 bolt patten that matches your rears. I am not sure if there is a direct hub swap out for a 3800 that works on a 1 ton axle. (Is the 3/4 and 1 ton axle the same?, I don't know). Will you be going with power discs in the front? Power brakes at all? I'm just asking questions that maybe you have already answered yourself. Will this be a longbed truck or will you be shortening to a Short? Springs will need to be moved forward and the frame shortened. Not sure what you budget is to get it back on the road or how quickly. I would not like to see you get into this truck so deep that you get in over your head financially. (It can and will happen, ask anyone on this site)

I recall somewhere on the internet a site that can give you the old frame dimensions for these old trucks. (Stovebolt is a good source for 1 tonners)

I myself thought about putting in a different rear in my '50 3600 but after you go there changes start to snowball.

[mechanixman]

For now, I just want to get her running and driving, and slowly accumulate parts.
Eventually, my goal is to drop in a 327, a t-56 trans, and a 3.73 posi rear end. Ladder bar suspension. Replace the single master cylinder with a dual, and Disc brakes on all four corners. I believe everything else is aesthetic.

Right now, my goals are to just replace the master cylinder,
make sure the lines aren't rusted out/safe enough to use.
Service the brakes
get the original drivetrain working

Once I have those goals completed, I'll drive it for a few months (probably closer to a year), while saving the money for the expensive components like the new trans. Then when I have the all the parts minus the driveshaft, I'll install it all in the truck

[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by coralhead

I recall somewhere on the internet a site that can give you the old frame dimensions for these old trucks. (Stovebolt is a good source for 1 tonners).

Here is some of that info

[mechanixman]

I thought it was time for some pictures.
- The rusted through panels may seem bad, but it's the only serious rust on the whole truck. The next wort piece is about a 1/4 the size of a dime on one of the cab corners.

- I thought it was kind of funny that someone earlier on put on some bed protector stuff. I peeled it away, and you can see the original color right next to the rusted area that didn't have any.(I thought it was kinda cool)

- Is this the way the shortened running boards came from the factory? Or did someone chop it down to length, and fold over to make an even corner

[mechanixman]

And I pulled all the dash pieces out.

[SCHRUMGMC]

On my '59 how do I cut out Rusty metal ?

[mechanixman]

Well there are several ways to do it, and you can use anything from a jigsaw, to a grinder, to a plasma cutter.

To take those out, I'll be using a nibbler. It's kind of like a hole punch for paper, except it's made to cut out sheet metal.
Something like that
http://www.harborfreight.com/16-gaug...ler-96661.html

[SCHRUMGMC]

Oh alright thanks for the Advice man

[mechanixman]

No problem!

[SCHRUMGMC]

TO cut out rust you use tht tool and then put the sheet metal over and weld and grind it down right ?

[mechanixman]

Yeah, I'm thinking about getting a patch panel and just using that instead of plain sheet metal, but yeah that's the idea

[SCHRUMGMC]

Oh alright looks like im going to have a fun time

[ChevyBrad]

Are your plans to shorten the frame too? That was my original intent but the more I am researching I am finding that a 3800 with a 9' bed in good shape is very rare and valuable so I don't think I want to do that any more. Do you know how rare these trucks are?

[coralhead]

To me therunning boards look short from the factory. A nice folded over end. That rust bring back memories of not long ago.

Before



After



Go with the patch panels on the floor, kickpanels and the outside cowels. Buy a spotweld cutter while you are at it.

[SCHRUMGMC]

awesome before and after

[ChevyBrad]

Agreed, great work!

[SCHRUMGMC]

Love the welding job, but only thing I'd worry about is, what if the Weld breaks ?

[mechanixman]

I doubt it would break, especially if he welded both sides of the panel.
But probably nothing too bad would happen immediately. The cab would sag forward, and probably warp the fenders. You'd still be able to safely stop at the side of the road, and get help.