Saddle up 66 c10

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by BFoley

A great truck to start with from the looks of it. Subbed!

Thank you, I sure had to work hard for it!

[chevy.c10]

Have been working pretty hard lately, and have been sharpening up my welding skills, never really welded anything until now so it might look a little sloppy now but I have to learn somehow, plus dad bought me a new grinder so I can make it look nice either way. Here is the progress I have made so far, one side almost ready for rockers and the other I still have to start on.

[62stepside longbox]

Nice work on the rust repair. Using patch panels looks like it saved you lots of time.

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

Nice work on the rust repair. Using patch panels looks like it saved you lots of time.

Thanks, although i'm sure it did save me a ton of time I originally though they would fit a bit better but it is what it is, some of my patch panels came with the truck when I bought it which was a plus.

[62jimmy]

Repairs are looking good! I am considering going with KBS Coatings on my frame etc also. Did you just use the Rustseal Product? Did you use their etching solution before applying it?
Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming!

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by 62jimmy

Repairs are looking good! I am considering going with KBS Coatings on my frame etc also. Did you just use the Rustseal Product? Did you use their etching solution before applying it?
Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming!

Yep, I bought the large frame coater kit which includes three products to be used in 3 differents stages first you use the KBS Klean (Cleaner/Degreaser) apply to the surface generously and keep it wet for approximately 10 minutes and be sure to rinse it off with water, second stage is called Rustblast which is a phosphoric acid I believe which is similar to many other products that eat rust and leave a zinc coating over the substrate, you apply this anywhere from 10 minutes to 2 hours I believe depending on how bad the rust is, also DO NOT let this stuff dry on there and don't forget to rinse it off when your done, then you should be able to apply the rustseal anytime you have time within a certain time period, about 30 days if I remember correctly. Make sure to be in appropriate temperature conditions and follow the directions to a "T" for best results. Any more questions just ask, I would recommend KBS to anyone.

[62jimmy]

cool, thanks for the info on their product! One other thing I was wondering about was there are parts of my frame that still have good paint on them, do I have to strip it to bare steel or will the rust blast prep that too?
Thanks again
Jeremy

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by 62jimmy

cool, thanks for the info on their product! One other thing I was wondering about was there are parts of my frame that still have good paint on them, do I have to strip it to bare steel or will the rust blast prep that too?
Thanks again
Jeremy

That I am not 100% sure on. But I did run into the same thing what I did was took some aggressive sand paper like 36 grit and scuff the good paint down maybe so a bit of steel is peaking out and repeat the same process you would with rusty metal, this way at least the surface is prepped right and instead of just chemical adhesion you get mechanical adhesion as well. Hope that helps

[62jimmy]

Originally Posted by chevy.c10

That I am not 100% sure on. But I did run into the same thing what I did was took some aggressive sand paper like 36 grit and scuff the good paint down maybe so a bit of steel is peaking out and repeat the same process you would with rusty metal, this way at least the surface is prepped right and instead of just chemical adhesion you get mechanical adhesion as well. Hope that helps

Yes that seems like a good way to deal with it, thanks again for your insight

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by 62jimmy

Yes that seems like a good way to deal with it, thanks again for your insight

No problem!

[chevy.c10]

Got the trailing arms painted along with new poly-urethane bushing installed. Installing the bushing was more of a pain than I would have thought but got them in none the less also put my 4 inch drop springs in it, now I just need to pick up some shocks. Now a question for anyone who knows, since I lowered my truck will I need shorter shocks?

[Palf70Step]

Yes. You may also want to look at relocating the shock mounts. I am not sure at what drop, but I think you will also need to go with an adjustable panhard bar.

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Yes. You may also want to look at relocating the shock mounts. I am not sure at what drop, but I think you will also need to go with an adjustable panhard bar.

Everything looks like its gonna line up fine as of where the shocks mount, and my panhard bar bolted up just fine so i'm not sure why I would need an adjustable one?

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by chevy.c10

Everything looks like its gonna line up fine as of where the shocks mount, and my panhard bar bolted up just fine so i'm not sure why I would need an adjustable one?

Shocks will bolt up fine, but the loose alot of their damping ability since they will be at a sharper angle (rear especially).

The adjustable track bar is to keep the axle centered side to side with the frame during the movement process. With lower trucks it tends to move it toward the passenger side more, than staying centered.

I think with 4" drop you are OK, but anymore most places recommended the adjustable track bar.

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Shocks will bolt up fine, but the loose alot of their damping ability since they will be at a sharper angle (rear especially).

The adjustable track bar is to keep the axle centered side to side with the frame during the movement process. With lower trucks it tends to move it toward the passenger side more, than staying centered.

I think with 4" drop you are OK, but anymore most places recommended the adjustable track bar.

Good info, I appreciate your input, so what would I have to do? Your saying I would have to relocate shock mounts more towards the cab to decrease the angle to increase the damping ability?

[Palf70Step]

Basically, it is my understanding to get them more upright. It also allows you to use a more stock length shock, which gives you a longer range the shock can run thru. The shock absorbs/compresses better when it is more vertical. I am not an engineer, so hopefully that makes sense.

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Basically, it is my understanding to get them more upright. It also allows you to use a more stock length shock, which gives you a longer range the shock can run thru. The shock absorbs/compresses better when it is more vertical. I am not an engineer, so hopefully that makes sense.

That makes sense, thanks for your input!!

[chevy.c10]

Well got the passenger side rocker tacked into place still have some massaging to do but its coming along, also picked up a t5 transmission and another 5 speed from an s-10 was thrown in the deal.

[62stepside longbox]

Nice work on the metal. That trans from the s10 is a nv3500. Both the t5 and nv3500 will work. The mods you will have to do are put in a different clutch or a different input shaft so the splines match and most likely have to trim the pilot tip. If you have a low hump you will have to change it to high hump and will have to cut a new hole for the shifter. Your driveshaft will have to be shortened and it's a good idea to add a trans mount/crossmember.

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

Nice work on the metal. That trans from the s10 is a nv3500. Both the t5 and nv3500 will work. The mods you will have to do are put in a different clutch or a different input shaft so the splines match and most likely have to trim the pilot tip. If you have a low hump you will have to change it to high hump and will have to cut a new hole for the shifter. Your driveshaft will have to be shortened and it's a good idea to add a trans mount/crossmember.

I knew most of that except how did you know that it's and nv3500? And would that be the way to go if it were a real nv3500?

[62stepside longbox]

Originally Posted by chevy.c10

I knew most of that except how did you know that it's and nv3500? And would that be the way to go if it were a real nv3500?

The t5 and nv3500 were what allmost all manual transmission s10's came with and the nv3500 has the integrated bellhousing and the casing is aluminum. but taking a closer look I don't think it is a nv3500. Is the bellhousing attached or is there just one bolted on in the picture? To know for sure you should be able to search up the numbers online. I did lots of research when getting a t5 for my truck. The t5 could have a lots of different gear ratios, if it came from a 4 cyl truck it will have a granny-like first gear and the od gear won't be great for highways with the 3.73 you have in the rear. But if it's from a 4.3 s10 then the gears will work great with your drivetrain. Another good thing about the t5 is that since it bolts right up to your bellhousing you won't even have to touch your clutch (unless it is worn). Maybe take some better pictures of the unknown trans and maybe it will be more clear

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

The t5 and nv3500 were what allmost all manual transmission s10's came with and the nv3500 has the integrated bellhousing and the casing is aluminum. but taking a closer look I don't think it is a nv3500. Is the bellhousing attached or is there just one bolted on in the picture? To know for sure you should be able to search up the numbers online. I did lots of research when getting a t5 for my truck. The t5 could have a lots of different gear ratios, if it came from a 4 cyl truck it will have a granny-like first gear and the od gear won't be great for highways with the 3.73 you have in the rear. But if it's from a 4.3 s10 then the gears will work great with your drivetrain. Another good thing about the t5 is that since it bolts right up to your bellhousing you won't even have to touch your clutch (unless it is worn). Maybe take some better pictures of the unknown trans and maybe it will be more clear

I plan on cleaning them up and finding the numbers on them, then maybe I can post more detailed images to show you what I have.

[chevy.c10]

Sorry no updates lately, I've decided to play baseball and run track and field so truck time has been cut down but not gone but my online time has been down. Ive been stripping everything down trying to get my cab in epoxy primer so I can start doing body work (in my eyes the best part). Did all my grinding outside and primed it.

[62stepside longbox]

Good to see you making progress! I know how it can be tough to Get anything done With school, sports and other stuff but keep on chipping away at it and you'll be done in no time

[chevy.c10]

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

Good to see you making progress! I know how it can be tough to Get anything done With school, sports and other stuff but keep on chipping away at it and you'll be done in no time

I get a chance to look at builds during school a bit but no time to post and I have been following yours, nice job on the cab corners and the fender mod!