The Vandal. 1957 "Big glass" 3100 restomod.

[BIGglaSS]

that thing just looks mean as a mad bull sitting there

[oldman3]

Sweet...Jim

[BIGglaSS]

I have too small of a space to manage a project this big. So, I determined I have to break it down to pieces and do a few panels at a time. After over a 2 week break, I sprayed out some fresh SPI epoxy before filler. I'm beginning to realize body work is not my specialty. Filler, sand, filler, sand, filler, sand.... Hope ya'll have stock in Evercoat filler products.

[mongocanfly]

seen my share of it...looks good though

[dsraven]

I find using a wide flexible steel putty knife works well. I have one from doing some drywall work that us quite worn out so really flexible from the handle towards the knife end. Less ridges if worked longer to smooth out and with a steel blade the surface is flatter because less bend across the blade of the knife compared to a plastic applicator. When done scrape the knife off well before the roller dries then sand it clean after it dries. This also wears the knife out a bit more so it becomes more flexible from the handle to the tip of the knife blade which I find helps lay the filler on smooth.

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I find using a wide flexible steel putty knife works well. I have one from doing some drywall work that us quite worn out so really flexible from the handle towards the knife end.

Thanks for the tip. I suck at drywall, but I tried the 12" knife on the passenger door. Much better. The passenger door belt line was mangled pretty good, and I couldn't get it back out all the way. It is hard to get in these doors with a dolly to planish them out. I won't show y'all a picture of the "polyester sins" on the other door. If I ever get this to a car show, stop and say "hi". And, I promise, the door will wave back at you...

[tintbox]

Very cool build!

[BIGglaSS]

Overnight temps have dropped to freezing. It is too hard for me to keep the garage warm enough to continue painting. Another year went by and I couldn't get it done. See you all next spring...

[joedoh]

keep picking at it!

[BIGglaSS]

I'm back...

Spent the last couple weeks powder coating the Holley A/C brackets, and install. Then I worked on the radiator / condenser / fan.

I didn't take any pictures of the drama to mount the radiator and the condenser. It took about 4 attempts to get it all to fit without hitting the grill or the hood latch.

But, pictures of making the fan shroud. Fan a 16" two-speed Volvo fan.

Started with layout on 18g sheet metal:

After a few passes through the bead roller:


Bending it over the workbench:






Now we have a box:


Assembled:

[BIGglaSS]

Painted the radiator support, shroud and inner fenders.


I spent the last week powder coating some of the under hood parts and installed the intake manifold.

Rear brakes powder coated and installed.

[Jason 56]

Looking great! Lots of good ideas... I’ll be following to see this one in the end.

[Kevin_C]

I always look forward to your post. trucks looking great. I was just getting ready to start prepping my wheel wells for paint but your picture got me thinking maybe I should cut another inch of clearance?

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Painted the radiator support, shroud and inner fenders.


I spent the last week powder coating some of the under hood parts and installed the intake manifold.

Rear brakes powder coated and installed.

Looking good bud, did you go with the spi single stage black?

[dsraven]

like the way you did the inner fenders, not just cut off raw edge, actually bent over on the new cut. looks good. whenI did mine I made sure to bring the suspension to full jounce, like bottomed out on the snubbers, then cut the inner fenders to clear the control arms etc. my cut way is waaaay bigger than yours though.
something I have found to work well for filler is the worn out, thin, flexible but still holding a good flat edge, steel putty knife. I have several in different widths. I usually try them "dry" to see which will give the best contour for the area where the filler needs to be applied. then mix a small amount of filler and apply it. I use USC featherite. don't add too much hardener and then you have more work time. apply it, leave a small amount somewhere you can check the cure, smooth it, keep checking your "test cure" spot, let it sit till it is nearing the no return stage. smooth and come back later. if sticky, wipe with laquer thinner, wax & grease remover or reducer, let dry, then sand and spray high build. downhill from there.

[BIGglaSS]

Thanks, dsraven.

Kevin, it really depends on what suspension setup you are using. I had one inner that the previous owner took WAY too much out. I did what dsraven did, cycle the suspension to full travel, then filled in the gaps with cardboard to make a template. Then I cut out the original fender. But for the previously hacked fender, I welded it back together like a patchwork quilt.

Meanwhile, I have analysis paralysis on what fuel line to buy. Rubber, nylon, PTFE. Aagghh, too many choices. And, I can't make a decision on where to mount the brake hose tabs.

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by slammed57

Looking good bud, did you go with the spi single stage black?

That is just epoxy! But, yes, I will be using SS black. I will also be doing SS black on my dad's Cadillac. We're still at least a couple months away from spraying, though.

[dsraven]

if you're plumbing from the tank use steel as far as you can, like large diameter brake lines and fittings, then go to a neoprene fuel line with reinforced braid or better yet, fuel injection hose because it is reinforced more than a standard rubber fuel line would be. they have better clamps for that hose as well. if you wanna spend cash to make it look good drop by a hydraulic hose shop and have them make up the stainless steel flex hose. know what fittings you need before you go though.

[BIGglaSS]

I was thinking about steel. In the end it may be easier to go with one hose the whole way, than buy extra fittings to adapt to -AN at each end of a steel hose. I have to run a return hose, which doubles the price.

[dsraven]

Go steel. Hose has friction loss for flow. Maybe cheaper and stronger to go steel anyway. Price pre make brake lines compared to rubber and a bunch of clamps to keep from dropping. Steel is safer too. My opinion. Your truck.

[slammed57]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

That is just epoxy! But, yes, I will be using SS black. I will also be doing SS black on my dad's Cadillac. We're still at least a couple months away from spraying, though.

Ok, let me know how you like the single stage if you can... Iam be putting epoxy down next month hopefuly

[BIGglaSS]

I still haven't decided on how to run fuel lines. So instead, I worked on the brakes.

I started by making a bracket for the prop valve, and powder-coated it.


My dad is a retired machinist and tool/die maker. So, I have access to some cool home built tools. I used his home made bender to make some connecting lines from the master cylinder to the prop valve.


Here is a home made tube clamp for the flaring tool.


Assembled.


On the firewall

[BIGglaSS]

Figuring out where to mount the front brake hoses was a challenge. Since I have drop spindles, and weird offset wheels, the stock location didn't work. After two days of moving the suspension up/ down, left/right, I decided the best place to mount them was in front of the shock towers. Not my best artistic work. I made some simple tabs and welded them on. Since I only removed enough paint to make small welds, had trouble with contamination and bubbling. Oh well. Next one, I will sort this out before painting the frame. Bending the long line from the front right to the master cylinder was not easy. But, I nailed it on the first attempt. Still needs some clamps to hold in place.

[mongocanfly]

Looking good bigglass..

[Jason 56]

That copper alloy brake line is awesome stuff. Easy to work with n very rust resistant. Great choice... Lookin good