The Vandal. 1957 "Big glass" 3100 restomod.

[BIGglaSS]

Four years ago, I started this restomod project. I had a build thread on another forum, which was destroyed by photo bucket, so I quit updating it. I just resumed working on this truck after a 9 month break. I'm excited to be working on it again, and posting updates. It will take me a while to upload pictures and piece together this build thread. Some of it may be out of order.

The details: 5.3/4L60e. Nova sub-frame. C4 IRS. C5 brakes. C6 wheels.

When I brought this truck home, I found a parking ticket dated 1978 from the University of Idaho aka the "Vandals". And the name stuck...
The day I drug it home:


It had a Nova sub-frame tack welded under the original frame. I cut that mess off, and spliced the sub-frame into the truck frame.




Then I had to finish out the front frame horns to mount the bumper and radiator support:





-continued-

[BIGglaSS]

When I bought it, there was a poorly welded, twisted step notch and S10 rear end.


Out with the old:


Building a new rear sub frame for C4 IRS:








Laying out geometry and mounting the "dog bones":








Media blast and paint the frame with SPI epoxy:








-continued-

[mongocanfly]

Looks like another sweet build....more,more,more....

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Looks like another sweet build....more,more,more....

That's just the first year, I have 3 more years to post!

When I bought it, I thought it was a Gen2 camaro sub frame. The first set of coil over shocks I bought didn't fit. After a little investigating, I discovered it was a Nova, and not a Camaro. Nova frames have less suspension travel. Then, I bought RideTech coil overs. They were still too tall. Long story short... I ended up raising the upper shock mounts to fit a taller shock.




Next, Kore3 billet hubs w/C5 calipers. These things are a work of art!



I Powder coated the spindles silver, and calipers gloss black.





Speedtech control arms, and Ridetech coil overs to finish the front end.





-more to come, later-

[BIGglaSS]

Made a dolly to move the cab and flip it.


Floor pan repair




Modify the firewall for brake booster:






Home built bracket for the brake pedal.



Mounting the dbw gas pedal:

[joedoh]

outstanding fab work, I like the work to graft the old frame to the clip especially

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by joedoh

outstanding fab work, I like the work to graft the old frame to the clip especially

Thanks! In hindsight, I should have mounted the front clip stepped, 1" higher.

Next up, sheet metal repair. Cutting off the door skin.


Starting with a flat piece of 18g, let's make new door bottoms.












I made a new door skin on the english wheel. Welding in place with my dad's TIG welder.



Repeat on the other side:


Tired of borrowing my dad's welders, I bought this bad a$$ little machine:

[BIGglaSS]

Fender repair. I bent up some patch panels from the door skins of another car that I parted out. TIG welded in place with the new MM215.


The upper fender mounts on both fenders were rotted out. Shaped up some new pieces and welded in place.






And finally, some assembled shots for those still following!

[oldman3]

You've done some great work, looking forward for you to catch us up to date...Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Wonderful fab work. You must spend every waking second in the shop! The way you did the flat spot for the PB Booster is a particularly nice touch.

QUESTION: What did you do to address the rust inside the doors you repaired?

[BIGglaSS]

Thanks, guys. Dan, all the bad rust was cut out and replaced with new metal. While the door skin was off, I blasted the surface rust off the inside of the doors, where I could get to. I followed up with a wire wheel in the drill, and sanding with a die grinder. Then I brushed on Oshpo, and covered it with a butyl sound damper.

[BIGglaSS]

I milled a steering column mount on my dad's bridgeport.





Welded in a new fender cap.




I replaced the cab steps. The rocker panels did not meet my standards.


I bent up a sample of what the rocker shape should be per the assembly manual. (compared to the reproduction piece)


So... I cut them off and made my own. That was WAY too much work without a sheet metal brake.



Next, I made the fenders fit the radius of the door. Before:


Open up the flange, and stretch out the area in the red triangle:


After:


After gapping the doors/hood/fender:


Repeat everything on the other side:

[BIGglaSS]

Then I made a column mount for a shift cable.


Here's a shot of slicing the door jamb to fit the bear claw latch.


And we're off to the blaster!

Back from media blast:




A little acupuncture therapy with the stud gun:

[BIGglaSS]

After returning from the blaster, the underside and cowls got 2 coats of SPI epoxy.


Followed by welding in the cab corners:



Then the underside got coated with SPI bedliner (now discontinued)



After painting the inside with 2 coats of SPI white epoxy, the Restomod A/C unit was fitted.


Kick panel rust repair:


Cut out for speaker:


I made a steel plate and tapped it for mounting Image Dynamics 5x7 speakers.




And then welded the cowl panels back on

[mongocanfly]

very nice work...

[Dan in Pasadena]

Everything looks really good. Nice detail on dealing with the rust inside the door. Wouldn’t some kind of paint inside the door after blasting have been easier than applying some kind of butyl material?

PS: Do you plan to leave the dash stock? I ask because I did and I now wish I’d smoothed the entire thing, possibly with the exception of leaving the stock radio holes. The glove box is unusable for anything once AC is installed. The Vintage Air controller could be put anywhere. No need for the ashtray, etc. Just an idea. I WAS going to put a ‘55 Belair dash in it but didn’t end up doing it due to cost - I was not doing the work myself. It’s an expensive wall hanger in my garage now...but they say you’re never done. I may install it one day!

[BIGglaSS]

Wouldn’t some kind of paint inside the door after blasting have been easier than applying some kind of butyl material?

The only "right answer" is to completely remove the door skin, and blast/epoxy the inside. Though, this is not practical. The best solution is to keep the truck dry, and the surface rust still in the door will not grow.. Yes, where I was able to blast the rust completely clean, got coated with epoxy.

Paint Over Rust products will fail over time due to adhesion issues on rust. Because you can't get into every nook and cranny to completely clean out surface rust, epoxy will also fail. Once these coatings start to lift, moisture can wick under neath and rust will continue to grow at an accelerated rate.

My solution may not be the right way, but I think it will be adequate, and better than most restoration practices. It is nearly impossible to access all areas of the inside of the door. What you see, is only surface rust. This is before Oshpo.

Ospho is a phosphoric acid treatment. Acid treatments are a no-no for use under epoxy, unless it is properly rinsed and removed. Again, this is too hard to do inside a door, so the best solution is not use any kind of paint coating.

For sound damping, I'm using full membrane sheets, which according to the manufacture, are a moisture barrier.
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.co...cts/cld-sheets
I have used butyl tape products before on other projects, and over time, the heat slightly melts them onto the surface. Though, I have never used this exact product before, I assume it will work the same.

The door bottoms were not welded in, until I was done working inside the doors. Here is a shot with the CLD sheet installed inside the door skin.


And the last line of defense to coat the edge seams that didn't get opened, is Cavity Wax. The cavity wax flows into the seams, to protect rust from growing. Also, all new metal that was welded in, got the back side and seam coated with epoxy. It will never rust.
https://www.tat-co.com/Products/Repa...r-Rustproofing



I'm leaving the dash somewhat stock look. I deleted the heater controls, and made a cover plate from another ash tray. The A/C controls will be placed where the throttle/choke/lighter used to be. https://www.restomodair.com/shopprod...-a-c-controls/ . I might change the knobs with the stock knobs to give it an original look.

The ash tray will hold a usb port plugged into the Retrosound radio.

You're right about the glove box. I haven't solved that problem yet. I bought a shorty glove box from Restomod / Classic Air. With the glove box in place, I can't hook up the the ducts to the A/C unit. With the A/C unit in place, I cant get the glove box in. I will have to custom make my own glove box. That can wait until I get the truck running! (Because they're never done)

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for the link to the Restomod site. I had never seen that before.

I am wondering if their controls can be made to work with my already-installed Vintage Air system? If so I’d install them as you suggested in the locations of the factory top three knobs. Then I’d have to get a closure plate for the factory heater control location and have it color matched to my paint OR bite the more expensive bullet and weld that shut along with the ashtray and respray the dash. You’re right, they’re NEVER done! Oh well, that’s the fun (and the agony) of them!

[BIGglaSS]

Dan, I think your best option would be using the Vintage air controls.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Dan, I think your best option would be using the Vintage air controls.

Yeah, and they’re already installed. But the controls on this site are very cool. Especially the controls that are IN the vents. Waay cool!

[Nut Case]

Dude you're clipping right along. Strong work. Back in the dark web of my mind I seem to recall that you have an additional big window cab on hand. If so would you part with it?

Thanks

Nut Case

[joedoh]

staggering work. those 6x9s in the cowl are gonna booma boom boom with all that room, and an equal part of the sound is going to come out of the wiper cowl, so the whole neighborhood can jam too.

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by Nut Case

Dude you're clipping right along. Strong work. Back in the dark web of my mind I seem to recall that you have an additional big window cab on hand. If so would you part with it?

Thanks. It wasn't me with another cab. Though I have a big window squarebody I'd happily sell.

staggering work. those 6x9s in the cowl are gonna booma boom boom with all that room, and an equal part of the sound is going to come out of the wiper cowl, so the whole neighborhood can jam too.

Thanks... Wiper cowl is going to be sealed. Keeping the audio simple. Those 5x7's will hide behind vent grills from a 63 Belair. Also adding tweets, and a 8" sub behind the seat. All powered by a Zapco 5 ch amp.

[BIGglaSS]

Next order of business was to fill the gas hole


Finish weld the steps, and seam seal.

Epoxy time!






Installed a battery box before mounting the cab FOR THE LAST TIME!


Cab mounted for THE LAST TIME!

[BIGglaSS]

Seat belts. For the lap belts, I made anchors out of 1/4" plate. Welded grade 8 nuts.


Plug welded from the inside:


From the under side:


For the shoulder belts, I made similar anchor plates:


I attached a piece of welding wire and fished them up into the B pillars:


Plug welded in place. You can see I had to drill a hole to run the fish wire:





Inner fenders... They were hacked by previous owner with acetylene torch. I went through the trouble of patching in multiple pieces. I guess I like to TIG weld... Should have bought new one.


Installed:



Patched the fender badge holes with the TIG welder. I love welding with this setup. Miller 215, w/ CK #9 flex torch, SSC pedal, 040" tungsten.


A little bit of file and metal finish.

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Here's a shot from last week! You're now up to date, minus the door latch mods.