68 project

[Oregon 1967 GMC]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Those look great

I hear you, I like that look.

[flashed]

Wait ,when did the K20 happen ? Where have I been to miss that one ?

[cknfrmr]

I'm still digin that bumper. Guess I'm a fan of the small subtle things that set em apart. We get much more rain its gonna come in your doors on that thing.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

I totally agree with you on all you stated, I think it is more of a heart issue I just thought I had something I didn't have, it is still going in the 68. It is a real good and clean block and has new pistons and does not have to be bored. So it is a money saver right from the git go. I have had a 400 sb in a 73 Nova I once built a 327 in a 1980 Monza Spyder I built and a 283 in a 79 Z28 that was built with no issues so I do not for see any issues here neither.

I know exactly how you feel Larry. Having a four bolt block still feels like being a celebrity at cruise night for us old guys- you walk with your head a little higher. When i got my first one i was even telling the little old ladies at church.....

That LS i see in the k-truck is a 6-bolt so just take the two and average them.

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by flashed

Wait ,when did the K20 happen ? Where have I been to miss that one ?

It is my bosses ride I help him on it on occasion.

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by NC_John

I know exactly how you feel Larry. Having a four bolt block still feels like being a celebrity at cruise night for us old guys- you walk with your head a little higher. When i got my first one i was even telling the little old ladies at church.....

That LS i see in the k-truck is a 6-bolt so just take the two and average them.

Exactly !!! it just seems that it gives you bragging rights, and just to inform on the direction I am going was a 383 stroker kit, everything I have been reading says it recommends a 4 bolt block to do the stroker motor. What is your guys feelings on that ? I just do not want that oh crap moment later down the road while I am trying to enjoy a cruise with my wife.

I may go with a set of splayed caps, just seems to be cheap insurance for something you are pouring your life savings into.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331724313895

[MMcMasters]

Larry,

Here is my opinion man. You will be fine with your 2 bolt block, even with the 3.750 stroke. I would use ARP studs instead of the stock bolts and you will need to line hone the mains. At your power level, it will be plenty strong.

[Theboatandcarman]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Exactly !!! it just seems that it gives you bragging rights, and just to inform on the direction I am going was a 383 stroker kit, everything I have been reading says it recommends a 4 bolt block to do the stroker motor. What is your guys feelings on that ? I just do not want that oh crap moment later down the road while I am trying to enjoy a cruise with my wife.

I may go with a set of splayed caps, just seems to be cheap insurance for something you are pouring your life savings into.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331724313895

i built my 383 on a 2 bolt main with arp studs in everything.... dynoed at 532hp 515torque...... we will see longevity lol
but just remember you can likely find a short block 4 bolt 350 for the price of those caps!

[GR8-68]

Thanks for all the input, a bit of history on this block I have is that it was just recently already built and is freshly bored to 4.030, it still has the crosshatching showing. So by using this I will actually be saving some on machine work.

[zicc1835]

hey Larry, question if your going to run a 700R4 or a 400 tranny i think they are the same length ....can you take a measurement for me from either the forward cab mount rear rivet hole to the first rivet hole for the trans cross member I'm running a cpp trans member...thats the only one I'm not quite sure where it should be positioned or a measurement from the engine cradle back or any position/measurement to get me lined up my plan is to attach all the cross members to one rail then bring the other rail in to attach so I'm not sliding them in on an angle making scratches....if that makes any sense
thanks
Jess

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

hey Larry, question if your going to run a 700R4 or a 400 tranny i think they are the same length ....can you take a measurement for me from either the forward cab mount rear rivet hole to the first rivet hole for the trans cross member I'm running a cpp trans member...thats the only one I'm not quite sure where it should be positioned or a measurement from the engine cradle back or any position/measurement to get me lined up my plan is to attach all the cross members to one rail then bring the other rail in to attach so I'm not sliding them in on an angle making scratches....if that makes any sense
thanks
Jess

That is not a problem Jesse, I will see if I can get by there today and make a measurement for you, I am also using the cpp tranny member.

[zicc1835]

no rush thanks

[GR8-68]

No updates right now, putting my next strategic plan together as I am hitting another expensive hump in the road as I put my motor and tranny package together. Somehow seems to be everything I want is at least 600 or more. I did get a super deal on a low mileage 4L80E though at 300 bills now I just need the 600.00 tailhousing for mechanical speedo and the 600.00 controller

My 600.00 ignition system should be arriving this week.

[kehstr]

couldn't you just go electronic speedo and save about $520?

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by kehstr

couldn't you just go electronic speedo and save about $520?

If I could find one that looked identical to the factory speedo yes, but everything electronic you see for these trucks looks absolutely nothing like factory guages. I am trying to keep mainly factory look on the dashboard. Most of the electronic guages are not to cheap neither.

[GR8-68]

Just seen this in another thread

Dakota speed convertor

[GR8-68]

Off with the old in with the new

[rusty76]

Everything costs money no matter what we do. Oh well. Cost to just spin a wrench. I always thought racing was expensive but sometimes our trucks can be costly. Lol. At least you'll be able to drive your truck more than just on a Saturday.

[NoNeck]

Larry, I just read over your build thread. You have come a long way man. Your truck is really looking great. If you are ever down Tennessee way, drop by and see Chad and me.

Good luck bud.

POP

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Just seen this in another thread

Dakota speed convertor

those boxes have never been very reliable, the motors that run the cable seem to burn up quite often, at least by what I have seen.
I was particularly referring to this thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=512751 I have done the conversion, and it looks perfect!

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by NoNeck

Larry, I just read over your build thread. You have come a long way man. Your truck is really looking great. If you are ever down Tennessee way, drop by and see Chad and me.

Good luck bud.

POP

Thank you for taking the time to read my build, I would definitely like to come by some time. Thanks for the invite, same for here.

[Smittee]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Off with the old in with the new

Man that new engine stuff looks very nice!

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by Smittee

Man that new engine stuff looks very nice!

Thanks Smittee

[GR8-68]

The new Lunati cam and lifters are on the way and the stroker kit should be here next week Almost time to get this motor together and dialed in, not sure I will make my June goal but it is coming somewhere

[GR8-68]

The new rear ride height is perfect! !!