1977 Chevy C10 known as SharkBite

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

Well who wants some good news and bad news???

Sad that's they way things go most of the time.

Bad news is money just isn't there right now to fork out for everything to get the truck look whole again, I'm still going to try and get bumper brackets at least get some chrome on it. So got to set aside a little cash from the next few checks to get all the goodies. I also have to work a full day but it means I get paid OT so that's good.

Good news is now I'm really that much closer to get the carb and intake all buttoned up. All that's left to really be done is to be the fuel line so I'll probably get that plugged up either Friday after I get off or Saturday so hopefully with my fingers crossed the truck will be running by this weekend.

Hey man... i had to drive my truck with no bed bolts on it, only thing holding it on was its weight alone so dont feel bad. its still on the truck and is solid as ever.. just needs some TLC.

[Claytona08]

Haha that's right. At the paint shop yesterday I seen a sign that read "Do you want it right or do you want it right now?" I laughed when I read it.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by Claytona08

Haha that's right. At the paint shop yesterday I seen a sign that read "Do you want it right or do you want it right now?" I laughed when I read it.

I saw that, I want one in my house!

[77ChevySharkBite]

I do have even better news but I think I'll wait to tell you guys that this coming weekend just to make it anticipate it, but it's not truck related so you've been warned

[77ChevySharkBite]

Alright fellas great news everything is ready and good to go just have 2 things to button up those being some clamps, and then have to finish the set up of the electric choke then it'll be crank up time set timing and then test and then tune hopefully 67 c10 guy can come over and help me finish it up but this weekend it will be running!!!

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

Alright fellas great news everything is ready and good to go just have 2 things to button up those being some clamps, and then have to finish the set up of the electric choke then it'll be crank up time set timing and then test and then tune hopefully 67 c10 guy can come over and help me finish it up but this weekend it will be running!!!

hey video tape some of your tuning guy!! theres alot you could teach others while doing that.. i already know but some newbies could learn by watching others and you tune the engine.. also its intresting to watch tuning. make sure you run your vacuum advance off the intake, instead of the carb.. lol..
thats some good news. i hope your done with the carb. also look up the port vacuum advance vs manifold vacuum advance

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by chevybuilder18

hey video tape some of your tuning guy!! theres alot you could teach others while doing that.. i already know but some newbies could learn by watching others and you tune the engine.. also its intresting to watch tuning. make sure you run your vacuum advance off the intake, instead of the carb.. lol..
thats some good news. i hope your done with the carb. also look up the port vacuum advance vs manifold vacuum advance

I'll try to remember and if I don't I'll do a write up on it no doubt. From what I've watched in the video says doesn't need much tuning but of course you can always do fine tuning which is probably what I'll do

[77ChevySharkBite]

Alright fellas have your fingers crossed for me!! I finished up everything this morning before the air show and I'm about to head home and crank the beast up so let's say a prayer everything is good and this baby runs!! will report back shortly guys!!

[77ChevySharkBite]

I can't say thank you enough fellas you have been so helpful the truck is alive and it's nasty power, I scared myself a little but it's up and running just have to fine tune it now!!

Also I thought I had a bad temp gauge, well sure enough it was just a bad thermostat and my temp gauge works so I have a full working dash gauges!! Now all that's left is fine tuning!!

[knomadd]

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

the truck is alive and it's nasty power, I scared myself a little but it's up and running just have to fine tune it now!!

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by knomadd

now it's time for

[Sodell]

Great news....

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by Sodell

Great news....

Thanks Scott sorry for the late response yesterday was jammed packed for me.

[77ChevySharkBite]

I got a question for you guys anyone good with tuning a carburetor?

I need some help for sure. alright so I know I'm going from manual choke to electric so a few things are different but I know I don't have to pump the gas anymore or most of the time.

When it cranks up the idle shoots up to about 1,500rpm I usually let it sit there a couple of seconds and then tap the gas and it will idle down to around 500-750rpm, and I guess sometimes because it hasn't warmed up fully sometimes it'll die. Also if I let it just idle there for a little while say 5-7 minutes then I kill it, try to crank it back over it's like it doesn't fire right away but when it starts it's on all 8, is that just a way the electric choke works or do I need to do some tweaking? It runs and performs waaaay better just trying to start understanding it a little better.

[knomadd]

I'm by no means an expert, or even "very knowledgeable" about carburetors, but I believe that you have to press the accelerator about a quarter to half way down, once, to allow the choke flap to close on it's own. Maybe not, but mine won't engage the choke if I don't press down on the accelerator before cranking. Once it fires, the electricity will heat up a spring inside the choke cup that will allow the choke flap to open fully when the accelerator is applied again (usually a quick tap is all it takes).

Mine will fire to about 2,000 RPM, I'll tap the accelerator lightly to bring it down some (usually about 1,000-1,500 RPM) until I'm ready to go. If you're idling at 500 RPM in Park or Neutral, you're too low. Adjust your idle screw so you're at 700-900 in Park. This should put you between 500 and 700 RPM in gear. I don't like to see idle anywhere below 500 RPM as I think it starts to work too hard to keep running.

As for it dying... I'll have to think about that a little more. Not sure exactly, but if you can give me a little more info, it might help. I know you've got an edelbrock. Is it a 650cfm straight out of the box, or did you modify it at all? Was the electric choke on it or did you add it? Where are you running the red and black choke wires? How does it run/drive in other scenarios... meaning if you drive it a while, park somewhere then come out and fire it within about 10 minutes, does it fire right away or crank for a while?

When you say idle for 5-7 minutes, is the choke activated or not?

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by knomadd

I'm by no means an expert, or even "very knowledgeable" about carburetors, but I believe that you have to press the accelerator about a quarter to half way down, once, to allow the choke flap to close on it's own. Maybe not, but mine won't engage the choke if I don't press down on the accelerator before cranking. Once it fires, the electricity will heat up a spring inside the choke cup that will allow the choke flap to open fully when the accelerator is applied again (usually a quick tap is all it takes).

Mine will fire to about 2,000 RPM, I'll tap the accelerator lightly to bring it down some (usually about 1,000-1,500 RPM) until I'm ready to go. If you're idling at 500 RPM in Park or Neutral, you're too low. Adjust your idle screw so you're at 700-900 in Park. This should put you between 500 and 700 RPM in gear. I don't like to see idle anywhere below 500 RPM as I think it starts to work too hard to keep running.

As for it dying... I'll have to think about that a little more. Not sure exactly, but if you can give me a little more info, it might help. I know you've got an edelbrock. Is it a 650cfm straight out of the box, or did you modify it at all? Was the electric choke on it or did you add it? Where are you running the red and black choke wires? How does it run/drive in other scenarios... meaning if you drive it a while, park somewhere then come out and fire it within about 10 minutes, does it fire right away or crank for a while?

When you say idle for 5-7 minutes, is the choke activated or not?

Cool thanks Duane.

Usually when I crank it I'll just turn the key until it cranks, but yesterday when it wouldn't crank I pushed down a little on the gas and cranked right up so I'm thinking that's what I'll continue to do.

Yeah when it cranks it'll go to about 1500-2000 max and once I give it a press it'll idle down and keep running. Okay well I'll adjust that tonight if I get the chance to crank it up.

It's a 600cfm out of the box no adjustments to it at all. Only thing I've messed with is my idle screw. It's an electric choke so it came that way, my choke wires black the black wire is connected on the little housing the little black housing that's on there did that advised by the Edelbrock DVD I got with the carb, the red wire is actually connected into the heater box, as that's only on when the truck is on. Driving it runs fine no skips runs on a dime. After I ran it for a little while last night it cranked pretty much on the turn of a key. As far as running it for a little bit then let it sit about 10 minutes only done that once and when I went to crank it, it cranked for a couple seconds then fired up.

The fuel pump is working fine, I was going to start messing with the air/fuel mixture screws but I think until I have a better understanding of what's going on I'll hold off on that.

[knomadd]

I should probably mention that the idle RPM I suggested is for when the engine is warm. The choke might hold slightly closed until it reaches a warmer temp, like say 150 degrees (I'm guessing here) so it's best to make sure the engine is at operating temp (whatever your thermostat is set for...185 degrees?) before you make your final idle speed adjustment.

Check your timing to make sure it's where it should be. I bet you did that already, but it can't hurt to verify that it's still good. If the timing is off and you adjust it, you may need to adjust your idle rpm again. Pull back on the accelerator lever a couple times and let it settle before you check your RPM to be sure everything is sitting where it would normally. Just turning the screw and checking RPM isn't very accurate, it'll get you close, but sometimes it will change when you're driving because the accelerator linkage wasn't sitting normally after an adjustment.

OH, and if you have A/C (sorry, I can't remember) you'll want to bump your idle speed up to about 1,000 RPM in park. In gear you should be about 700-900 RPM so when the compressor kicks in, the idle will drop about 150-300 RPM

[77ChevySharkBite]

The thermostat I have is a 190-195.

Yeah I messed with that a little yesterday and where I have it sounds like it's exactly where it should be, but I know that can throw things off too cause I noticed when you turned it so much the idle would go higher. The accelerator lever is on the top right hand corner of the carb correct?

Yeah I had a/c but was told it didn't work so I pulled it off.

[knomadd]

The "accelerator lever" as I called it is the thing the linkage you just replaced connects to. Drivers side, looks brass. Not sure the exact name, so I apologize if my terminology is confusing.

If you don't have the A/C compressor installed, then don't worry about adjusting your idle speed for it.

Are you adjusting timing by sound or with a timing gun (a.k.a. timing light) and a manual that tells you what it should be?

[77ChevySharkBite]

I'm trying to post a picture of what I'm thinking is the accelerator lever can you tell me if I'm thinking of the same thing or if not could you circle it for me please sir. What i'm thinking your talking about is in red. So it's not working anyway possible I could have your e-mail address or something and e-mail the picture to you?

Okay cool

I'm just adjusting it by sound and also where it sat before I started taking it apart.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Hey Duane I was thinking you called it the accelerator lever could you be thinking of the accelerator pump?


Also I think I may have figured out my issue, I'll have to check it out when I get home tonight or tomorrow. My distributor vacuum isn't in the right port I think, I think I have a manifold port and a timed port mixed up! so I'm going to swap those around maybe tonight and never know might solve all the issues I'm having.

[knomadd]

This is what I was calling the accelerator lever.

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by knomadd

This is what I was calling the accelerator lever.

lol the little holes edelbrock leaves ya is what i call stirrups. seriously, they should have the throttle dowels to go with and control the dang thing

[knomadd]

Holley calls this the "throttle lever"... guess I was close.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Yeah I would say it's close enough for me too.

I think I have my vacuums mixed up and that's what is causing my problems minus probably having it timed exactly right. So I'm going to try and hook up the vacuums correctly and heck for all I know might solve all my issues.