How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 - Page 34 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

gringoloco · 09-10-2012, 07:15 PM

Powder! Dropped off at lunch, picked up after work- how's that for service?!

darkhorse970 · 09-10-2012, 08:08 PM

That's outstanding service! Looks like very high quality coating too.
Posted via Mobile Device

chapster · 09-10-2012, 08:47 PM

Hey Gringoloco,

Nice build,

Quick question,
I thought I had this figured out the last time I talked to Nate in regards to the 1" forward arms. After reading your thread is it only the requirement of lower control arms to benefit the 1" forward? What is the difference on the uppers they sent you vs the uppers for a standard dropmember.

Thanks,
Chapster

gringoloco · 09-10-2012, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkhorse970

That's outstanding service! Looks like very high quality coating too.
Posted via Mobile Device

They generally do great work- I will have to chase some threads and probably clean up the ball joint pockets, which they're normally really good about, but I'm not complaining- I have taken a hammer to their powder before, and it just conforms to the dents- no flaking/chipping at all...

Quote:

Originally Posted by chapster

Hey Gringoloco,

Nice build,

Quick question,
I thought I had this figured out the last time I talked to Nate in regards to the 1" forward arms. After reading your thread is it only the requirement of lower control arms to benefit the 1" forward? What is the difference on the uppers they sent you vs the uppers for a standard dropmember.

Thanks,
Chapster

I will be running lowers only, which will give more caster and less 'centering'. The upper arms were sent to me by accident, and are being returned

My understanding is that there are forward uppers as well as standard uppers depending on what you're looking for. I was looking for cheap

Posted via Mobile Device

chapster · 09-10-2012, 10:25 PM

I will be running lowers only, which will give more caster and less 'centering'. The upper arms were sent to me by accident, and are being returned

My understanding is that there are forward uppers as well as standard uppers depending on what you're looking for. I was looking for cheap

Posted via Mobile Device[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the clarification. That is what I understood from Nate but thought maybe I was missing something.

Cheers

aggie91 · 09-10-2012, 10:36 PM

Who did the powder coating? If you don't mind what did they. Charge for the control arms and brackets?
Posted via Mobile Device

Bennett68C10 · 09-10-2012, 10:06 PM

Powdercoat looks awesome, should have done that to mine but I cheaped out and painted them.
Posted via Mobile Device

gringoloco · 09-10-2012, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

Powdercoat looks awesome, should have done that to mine but I cheaped out and painted them.
Posted via Mobile Device

I thought about putting most of the parts in powder, but to save a few bucks, I only did the larger ones that required the durability.

Here's a dirty-hack p-shop of what I would be happy with for ride height up front to match the current rear. I think I'd be pretty close to the stock inners at this height, but I love the look...

babyblueoval · 09-10-2012, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I thought about putting most of the parts in powder, but to save a few bucks, I only did the larger ones that required the durability.

Here's a dirty-hack p-shop of what I would be happy with for ride height up front to match the current rear. I think I'd be pretty close to the stock inners at this height, but I love the look...

That looks awesome. Hey, you could drive to northwest Arkansas and do about $500 worth of work on Mike's '67. He might trade you some SloshTubz......

SCOTI · 09-11-2012, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babyblueoval

That looks awesome. Hey, you could drive to northwest Arkansas and do about $500 worth of work on Mike's '67. He might trade you some SloshTubz......

The aftermarket inner tub swap opens up a whole 'nother can-o-mods.

gringoloco · 09-11-2012, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chapster

Thanks for the clarification. That is what I understood from Nate but thought maybe I was missing something.

Cheers

Np!

Quote:

Originally Posted by aggie91

Who did the powder coating? If you don't mind what did they. Charge for the control arms and brackets?
Posted via Mobile Device

I used Witt's Powdercoating in Bossier City- been going there for years- great service, decent prices, great color selection, and the owners have some cool projects/toys. Charged me $80 for 8 pieces. They were cheaper 10 years ago, but I guess everything was

Quote:

Originally Posted by babyblueoval

That looks awesome. Hey, you could drive to northwest Arkansas and do about $500 worth of work on Mike's '67. He might trade you some SloshTubz......

Man, I wish I had the time, I would be all over it! He wouldn't even have to pay me. Unfortunately, my schedule is gonna tighten for the next few weeks- wont even have time for my own truck...

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The aftermarket inner tub swap opens up a whole 'nother can-o-mods.

No kidding! For better or worse- it opens up the possibilities, but means more time/money that I wasn't planning on for this round o' mods- trying to keep it simple...
Posted via Mobile Device

**67cheby** · 09-13-2012, 09:48 AM

its....tomorrow, today !

gringoloco · 09-13-2012, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

So the trailing arm flip gave the truck a slight rake then? I bet it looks good just how it sits now.

Yup! I'm pretty happy with the height now- rides much better, too!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

I'm right there with you buddy, I hate those frame rivets too. Can't wait to see some pics.

Laying on your back, sweating, eating hot metal shards, wearing goggles/gloves/hearing protection, and calling it 'fun'. And to think, I chose this as my hobby...

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67cheby

its....tomorrow, today !

I guess I deserve that, after all the pic harassment I've given in your thread, so I went out and snapped a couple during my lunch break, to go with the in progress shots from yesterday

Pretty simple mod--though it took me a few hours, mostly due to those !%dag@^*$^blasted##&%&*flabber#@!*#*@jackin*&^&%#^*% rivets. I used the brackets as a template for the offset holes and drilled them all out to accept 7/16" grade 8 hardware. Pretty happy with the end results, as the rake is now at an acceptable height- just gotta get the Camaro sway bar mounted up, and the rear suspension will be done!

Just for comparison, the rear is now ~3/4" higher than before and with no measureable fore/aft change. Looking at this pic, I really need to get those a-arms in and get the front wheel centered in the wheelwell...

mahanian · 09-13-2012, 03:53 PM

Did you have to add shims between the axle and the trailing arms to correct the pinion angle or is the change in angle minor enough to not be an issue?

mcbassin · 09-13-2012, 04:04 PM

Nice work Chris! Keep the updates coming. With pictures.

gringoloco · 09-13-2012, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mahanian

Did you have to add shims between the axle and the trailing arms to correct the pinion angle or is the change in angle minor enough to not be an issue?

If anything, the angle is now 'more correct' than it was before. Though I have what equates to a 7.5" drop, the rear axle only 'sees' about 2.5" of this--once you subtract the 3.5" raise of the TA mounts and the 1.5" blocks, if that makes sense. That 2.5", I would think, is well within the normal operating range of the stock suspension.

Bottom line: no, I did not add shims, either before or after the mount flip and have no issues--even at up to 80mph on the (crappy LA) interstate this morn

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Nice work Chris! Keep the updates coming. With pictures.

Thanks! More to come- can't have an update without pics

69gmcc10 · 09-13-2012, 05:13 PM

I know it's a small difference, but I like the stance more now you have done the flip to the brackets. I didnt like the look of your a$$ dragin on the ground, it looked lazy, not very sport.

XxCHEVYMANxX · 09-13-2012, 06:17 PM

Looks Good ! Nice subtle rake, adding the rear sway bar you'll have almost nobody roll. very cool.

gringoloco · 09-13-2012, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69gmcc10

I know it's a small difference, but I like the stance more now you have done the flip to the brackets. I didnt like the look of your a$$ dragin on the ground, it looked lazy, not very sport.

I agree! MUCH better now--no more Cali-lean...

Quote:

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

Looks Good ! Nice subtle rake, adding the rear sway bar you'll have almost nobody roll. very cool.

Thanks! I sure hope so. It feels a lot better already, just with the few mods I've done so far. I'm really looking forward to the change with the A-arms and sway bar. Then, the brakes

Here's a side-by-side of before/after the mount flip. Amazing, to me, how much difference less than an inch can make (that's what she said!

). Also notice how the arms are no longer hanging down beneath the bed. All said, good mod

thor · 09-13-2012, 08:35 PM

You nailed the stance perfectly!

Bennett68C10 · 09-13-2012, 09:26 PM

The stance looks really good, matches the front perfectly. Great job on a well thought out mod I would have never thought of.
Posted via Mobile Device

68GMCCustom · 09-13-2012, 11:04 PM

Looks good..interesting about the pinion angle. My truck got worse with the TA mount flip...my trucks pinion angle is like (yes shims are on the way) 8*? After working to set a better angle from the eng/trans my d-shaft was too short...then he put on the wrong u-joint....my d-shaft is getting it re-redone

gringoloco · 09-14-2012, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thor

You nailed the stance perfectly!

Thanks! I think it will work

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

The stance looks really good, matches the front perfectly. Great job on a well thought out mod I would have never thought of.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks man. Hope it stays that way with the arm swap...

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

Looks good..interesting about the pinion angle. My truck got worse with the TA mount flip...my trucks pinion angle is like (yes shims are on the way) 8*? After working to set a better angle from the eng/trans my d-shaft was too short...then he put on the wrong u-joint....my d-shaft is getting it re-redone

Sounds like a pain- makes me glad mine seems to have worked out well...
Posted via Mobile Device

aggie91 · 09-14-2012, 12:57 PM

Stance is perfect. When do you plan to install the Forward Lower arms?

gringoloco · 09-14-2012, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aggie91

Stance is perfect. When do you plan to install the Forward Lower arms?

Thanks! They will be going on in the next week or two--waiting for the rest of my steering parts and have a packed work schedule for a bit...
Posted via Mobile Device

09-10-2012, 07:15 PM	#1
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,920	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Powder! Dropped off at lunch, picked up after work- how's that for service?! Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

09-10-2012, 08:08 PM	#2
darkhorse970 Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Monroe, LA Posts: 2,103	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 That's outstanding service! Looks like very high quality coating too. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Keith SOLD - 1963 C10 Short Fleet 350/700R4 4/6 drop 1967 GMC Super Custom - Short Fleet COPO concept w/427 BBC T-400 w/Doug Nash overdrive 4/6 Drop, Buddy Buckets, etc... Frame Off (In Progress) I call it "Vulgar Display of Power" 1980 Silverado Original paint 49k Original miles 4/6 drop Check out my build thread here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post6209941

09-10-2012, 08:47 PM	#3
chapster Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: .. Posts: 455	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Hey Gringoloco, Nice build, Quick question, I thought I had this figured out the last time I talked to Nate in regards to the 1" forward arms. After reading your thread is it only the requirement of lower control arms to benefit the 1" forward? What is the difference on the uppers they sent you vs the uppers for a standard dropmember. Thanks, Chapster __________________ 1967 GMC shorty Parts Pile: NoLimit, Accu Air, Kore 3, Matts Classic Bowtie, March Performance, Lokar, ScottsHot Rods, Vintage Air, American Auto Wire, Circle D, Accu Air, Borla, Budnik, Ididit, One Piece Windows, Doug Thorley, Pypes, AutoLoc, Porterbuilt, CPP, Dynamat, Dakota Digital, Fesler 1968 Chevy c10 shorty Stepper (Patina LS project) 1967 gmc custom Long Box (Farm Truck Project)

09-10-2012, 10:25 PM	#5
chapster Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: .. Posts: 455	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 I will be running lowers only, which will give more caster and less 'centering'. The upper arms were sent to me by accident, and are being returned My understanding is that there are forward uppers as well as standard uppers depending on what you're looking for. I was looking for cheap Posted via Mobile Device[/QUOTE] Thanks for the clarification. That is what I understood from Nate but thought maybe I was missing something. Cheers __________________ 1967 GMC shorty Parts Pile: NoLimit, Accu Air, Kore 3, Matts Classic Bowtie, March Performance, Lokar, ScottsHot Rods, Vintage Air, American Auto Wire, Circle D, Accu Air, Borla, Budnik, Ididit, One Piece Windows, Doug Thorley, Pypes, AutoLoc, Porterbuilt, CPP, Dynamat, Dakota Digital, Fesler 1968 Chevy c10 shorty Stepper (Patina LS project) 1967 gmc custom Long Box (Farm Truck Project)

09-10-2012, 10:36 PM	#6
aggie91 I'm just glad to be here! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Longview, TX Posts: 4,788	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Who did the powder coating? If you don't mind what did they. Charge for the control arms and brackets? Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Karl 1965 Chevy Stepside(Grandpa's Old Blue) and (July 2015 Shop Build!)(2020, the Saga Continues) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=372424 The LST Challenge: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7812257 Korbin's 1st Square: "Sunburn" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=418618 1985 GMC Sierra: "White Trash", Korbin's 2nd now... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632305 Henry - 1984 Chevrolet, Owen's 1st Square

09-10-2012, 10:06 PM	#7
Bennett68C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Toms River, NJ Posts: 5,518	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Powdercoat looks awesome, should have done that to mine but I cheaped out and painted them. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Keith 66 Suburban Burb Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=751361 IG: bennett68c10

09-13-2012, 09:48 AM	#12
67cheby 67cheby Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: siloam springs ar 72761 Posts: 17,890	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 its....tomorrow, today ! __________________ Check out Slosh Tubz, bolt-in inner fenders for frame laying C-10's Slosh Tubz Introductory Price $559 67 Cheby's Dropmember Build Thread Slosh Tubz on Facebook http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554172

09-13-2012, 03:53 PM	#14
mahanian C10 addict Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Arizona Posts: 2,432	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Did you have to add shims between the axle and the trailing arms to correct the pinion angle or is the change in angle minor enough to not be an issue? __________________ Jared 67 C10 CST Short Fleet Big Window 65 C10 Custom Short Fleet Big Window 67 Camaro RS

09-13-2012, 04:04 PM	#15
mcbassin Still Learning Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Central Oklahoma Posts: 10,108	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Nice work Chris! Keep the updates coming. With pictures. __________________ Mike "69 Short Wide" My Project 86 Silverado Landen's Project Instagram: @mcbassin My Website C/10 Club Oklahoma Facebook Group

09-13-2012, 05:13 PM	#17
69gmcc10 Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Missoula, MT Posts: 934	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 I know it's a small difference, but I like the stance more now you have done the flip to the brackets. I didnt like the look of your a$$ dragin on the ground, it looked lazy, not very sport. __________________ 69 GMC C10 build thread- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501676 03 Silverado build thread-http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=591582

09-13-2012, 06:17 PM	#18
XxCHEVYMANxX Registered User Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Decatur, IL. Posts: 628	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Looks Good ! Nice subtle rake, adding the rear sway bar you'll have almost nobody roll. very cool. __________________ *John* Mild Custom 68' Work Truck Build Facebook LoL 1977 Trans Am (Project) 1965 Chevelle (Project)

09-13-2012, 08:35 PM	#20
thor Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 679	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 You nailed the stance perfectly! __________________ 1972 Chevy Blazer CST.....Project: Polished Turd

09-13-2012, 09:26 PM	#21
Bennett68C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Toms River, NJ Posts: 5,518	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 The stance looks really good, matches the front perfectly. Great job on a well thought out mod I would have never thought of. Posted via Mobile Device __________________ Keith 66 Suburban Burb Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=751361 IG: bennett68c10

09-13-2012, 11:04 PM	#22
68GMCCustom Truck and auto performance nut Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: McKinney,Texas Posts: 3,848	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Looks good..interesting about the pinion angle. My truck got worse with the TA mount flip...my trucks pinion angle is like (yes shims are on the way) 8*? After working to set a better angle from the eng/trans my d-shaft was too short...then he put on the wrong u-joint....my d-shaft is getting it re-redone __________________ Kurt - '68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy '72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close '06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD '18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver '95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto... my '68's powertrain and chassis build -links broken A surprise phase - carb to efi -links broken

09-14-2012, 12:57 PM	#24
aggie91 I'm just glad to be here! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Longview, TX Posts: 4,788	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Stance is perfect. When do you plan to install the Forward Lower arms? __________________ Karl 1965 Chevy Stepside(Grandpa's Old Blue) and (July 2015 Shop Build!)(2020, the Saga Continues) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=372424 The LST Challenge: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7812257 Korbin's 1st Square: "Sunburn" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=418618 1985 GMC Sierra: "White Trash", Korbin's 2nd now... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632305 Henry - 1984 Chevrolet, Owen's 1st Square



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