Shawno72's long overdue 68 daily driver build thread

[Hardesty454]

You can come try on my 20's... They're 6 lug!
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[shawno72]

Originally Posted by Hardesty454

You can come try on my 20's... They're 6 lug!
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With the disc brake install and new rest axles I'm 5 lug now. Got any 5 luggers?
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[Hardesty454]

Originally Posted by shawno72

With the disc brake install and new rest axles I'm 5 lug now. Got any 5 luggers?
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Not here, I'm going to be swapping over to 5 lug eventually. Not yet though.
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[HotRod C/10]

Originally Posted by shawno72

With the disc brake install and new rest axles I'm 5 lug now. Got any 5 luggers?
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I do, and you can get some real Mexican food while your here!

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by HotRod C/10

I do, and you can get some real Mexican food while your here!

Hey I'm in California. The Mexican food is just as authentic here
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[HotRod C/10]

ehh........I have had some descent stuff in San Diego, LODI is in the US?

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by HotRod C/10

ehh........I have had some descent stuff in San Diego, LODI is in the US?

Yes Lodi is filled with good Mexican food places, some you have to be able to order in spanish.

[shawno72]

Ok so the shrader set up for the rear bags is gonna be temporary and I didn't want to mount the fill valves anywhere with permanent holes. I thought about zip ties but then I said wait I know where they would be almost undetectable. I'm sure this has been done before but it works for me

[Ol Blue K20]

Hey Shawn, Better get to DMV your tags about to expire

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Hey Shawn, Better get to DMV your tags about to expire

Haha yeah I got till the 30th
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[Bennett68C10]

Nice Shawn, I like how you mounted the schrader valves.
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[knomadd]

Hey Shawno, did you ever figure out what's up with your brakes? I had a similar issue when I swapped my drum brakes in my GTO over to discs. I installed an SSBC front disc conversion kit and it wouldn't stop as well as my stock drums.

I wound up calling SSBC to get some tech support and they sent me a new booster thinking it was bad. When that didn't work, they thought my MC bore was too big/small. (Sorry, I can't remember which one since it was over 8 years ago. I don't want to guess and make your situation worse, so I'll leave that to someone else, but see if you can get some info from brake people on what a different bore size will do.) Even put in an electric vacuum pump because they thought I didn't have enough vacuum to run the power booster (sent that $#!+ back to them 'cause it didn't do anything but shake the car and made a lot of noise).

Eventually I went with a Hydratech hydro booster. I loved it so much, I ordered one for the C/10 too. Haven't installed it on the C/10 yet but I still think my factory discs don't stop as well as the drums on the Goat did. It might be that I only have about 10" of vacuum (5 at idle) and "you need 20+ for discs to work properly" according to SSBC.

Good luck!

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by knomadd

Hey Shawno, did you ever figure out what's up with your brakes? I had a similar issue when I swapped my drum brakes in my GTO over to discs. I installed an SSBC front disc conversion kit and it wouldn't stop as well as my stock drums.

I wound up calling SSBC to get some tech support and they sent me a new booster thinking it was bad. When that didn't work, they thought my MC bore was too big/small. (Sorry, I can't remember which one since it was over 8 years ago. I don't want to guess and make your situation worse, so I'll leave that to someone else, but see if you can get some info from brake people on what a different bore size will do.) Even put in an electric vacuum pump because they thought I didn't have enough vacuum to run the power booster (sent that $#!+ back to them 'cause it didn't do anything but shake the car and made a lot of noise).

Eventually I went with a Hydratech hydro booster. I loved it so much, I ordered one for the C/10 too. Haven't installed it on the C/10 yet but I still think my factory discs don't stop as well as the drums on the Goat did. It might be that I only have about 10" of vacuum (5 at idle) and "you need 20+ for discs to work properly" according to SSBC.

Good luck!

Thanks for asking Duane, I just came in from changing the master to the 1 1/8" bore and the brake pedal is worse. I am going to just ride it for a bit cause it feels like the brake pads aren't stopping the truck. When I mash the pedal down as hard as I can the truck stops but just felt so much better with the stock drums. I kinda at the point where I don't want to over think it so I'm just gonna roll it for a bit and see what happens

[shawno72]

Ok I bit the bullet and ordered a new aluminum master and new aluminum prop valve. The booster has a lifetime warranty on it through Oreillys so I will warranty it out at the same time I swap these parts in. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

[fastcam1]

Originally Posted by shawno72

Ok so the shrader set up for the rear bags is gonna be temporary and I didn't want to mount the fill valves anywhere with permanent holes. I thought about zip ties but then I said wait I know where they would be almost undetectable. I'm sure this has been done before but it works for me

Attachment 1086537

Nice shrader location! Looks clean keep it up
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[shawno72]

Originally Posted by fastcam1

Nice shrader location! Looks clean keep it up
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Thanks man. I plan to install the bags in 2 more days!!

[big_al_71]

Love the idea of where the shrader valves are mounted....

[Low Elco]

Might check the location of where your rod is hooked to the brake pedal. One gives more leverage. There are 2 holes on some trucks, switch it and try.

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by big_al_71

Love the idea of where the shrader valves are mounted....

Thanks Al, will serve the purpose and look clean.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Might check the location of where your rod is hooked to the brake pedal. One gives more leverage. There are 2 holes on some trucks, switch it and try.

Oh man I hope its that simple

[lolife99]

Here's some internet instructions on seating brake pads and rotors.
It's worth a shot,...

Caution: When you've just installed new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in almost no braking power. Gently apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.

When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.

From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.

Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.

If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. "

[shawno72]

Thanks Keith, I'll give that a try.

[shawno72]

Well I came in early to work this morining to install the rear air bags. Very easy install and with it aired out the pumpkin does bottom out on the bed floor. First pic of the truck is before, second is aired out and third is set a ride height which is identical to the before measurement.

[Zoomin]

Nice start to the day!

[shawno72]

Originally Posted by Zoomin

Nice start to the day!

Agreed!! Now if I only had a tank and compressor.........

[Zoomin]

Yup!

And then you're going to want some valves. Then controls...

Always something!