Got some new wheels: Boss 338's in 20x10 and 20x8.5

[SCOTI]

BossHogg, that is freakin' sweet!

[BossHogg69]

thank you sir, I've been hanging out in the suspension forum trying to get my 'Pro Tour' on with this truck!

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by scoti

bosshogg, that is freakin' sweet!

x2^^^

[piecesparts]

Unless I am blind, this does not apply to the model of trucks, such as my son's 86 Silverado. The 18 X 8" wheel appeared to seat directly onto the front disc brake hub without issue, except the center cap clearance. The 20 X 10" wide rear wheel seats well up against the drum and the backspacing looks good to align with the springs and the inner fenderwells on this year of truck. We seated the front wheel with a 3/16" thin spacer, just to make sure the cap would seat right. I am going to look again, but I thought we covered every angle the first day.

Originally Posted by brossow

The Rev 3 version of this wheel (currently only available in 20") uses a completely different style of center cap that should eliminate this problem. The real issue is that the hub bore is too tight in critical places to allow the wheel to seat against the hub without a spacer (on the front).

In the rear, it depends on which width you get as to whether it will fit (disregarding "looking right") without a spacer. The 10" rim requires 1 1/2" to 1" spacer, depending on application. The 8" rim may fit fine without a spacer; I have no experience with this width and its accompanying backspacing.

[bcutt]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

Gonna start with a 4.5/6 for now (I have CPP 2.5" spindles and 2" springs, with 6" springs and a c-notch out back, but I imagine I'll end up adjusting it a bit to get the fenders right above the tops of the tires. The back tires are about a half inch taller than the fronts, as I like a little bit of 'rubber rake' on my dropped trucks. I may go an additional .5" f/r to make it 5/6.5, but I'll only know for sure after I get the engine back in and the body on it. I do know that those 335's will be screaming for mercy when I unleash my aluminum headed solid roller 468" BBC and the TKO 5 spd on them! Here's another pick of it out in the light.

Thanks for all the details. I hear ya about the 468, I'm thinking of spending the $$$ where it counts and going with something like this

YouTube - 850 HP 632 BBC Warrior Chevy...

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

Unless I am blind, this does not apply to the model of trucks, such as my son's 86 Silverado. The 18 X 8" wheel appeared to seat directly onto the front disc brake hub without issue, except the center cap clearance. The 20 X 10" wide rear wheel seats well up against the drum and the backspacing looks good to align with the springs and the inner fenderwells on this year of truck. We seated the front wheel with a 3/16" thin spacer, just to make sure the cap would seat right. I am going to look again, but I thought we covered every angle the first day.

You may have the 1" wide front rotors up front. This would allow your wheels to fit flush with the rotor without having to machine them. As for the 10" backspacing I don't know.

[spazzyfry123]

So a quick recap... Looking at these wheels in 20x8.5 and 20x10 for my '68 SWB Fleetside with a 12 bolt rear with drums/'87 front with discs with a 5 on 5" bolt pattern.

I am unsure if the set up is with a 1" or 1.25" thick rotor, but if it is 1" everything should work just fine up front? It is dropped ~5" with spindles and springs up front as seen here...



But if they are the 1.25" thick rotors, then I will need to change out rotors, calipers, spindles, balljoints, etc. just to get the wheels to fit up front...? Or shave down the "dust cap" area on the rotor every time?




Sorry if it has been mentioned before, it's just after reading through a billion pages about "new style" 338s, 1" this, 1.25" that... My brain just got a little fried.

Thanks,
-Tyler

[brossow]

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

So a quick recap... Looking at these wheels in 20x8.5 and 20x10 for my '68 SWB Fleetside with a 12 bolt rear with drums/'87 front with discs with a 5 on 5" bolt pattern.

I am unsure if the set up is with a 1" or 1.25" thick rotor, but if it is 1" everything should work just fine up front?

But if they are the 1.25" thick rotors, then I will need to change out rotors, calipers, spindles, balljoints, etc. just to get the wheels to fit up front...? Or shave down the "dust cap" area on the rotor every time?

Sorry if it has been mentioned before, it's just after reading through a billion pages about "new style" 338s, 1" this, 1.25" that... My brain just got a little fried.

Thanks,
-Tyler

Out back, your offset will be way wrong and you'll need spacers (adapters) in the neighborhood of 1" to 1.5". The '68 rearend is considerably narrower than the '88-up these were designed for.

Up front, you can (1) use 1/4" spacers (which will push the wheels too far out to look "right"), (2) machine down the hubs (exact dimensions are provided with a mechanical drawing elsewhere in this thread, probably somewhere in the last 10 pages or so), or (3) swap in light-duty (1") rotors, which will also require different spindles, calipers and anything else associated with that downgrade.

You sure you don't want to consider something else that's designed to fit? Would probably be less expensive when you add it all up and would definitely be a lot easier.

[ARTISTIC]

I really like the style of these wheels, they look great on what rides have managed to accomodate them and Ive read through all 37 pages of posts but curious what the big difference between the Boss 338 and AR Torq Thrust II's or the AR Torq Thrust C100's?
Is cost the biggest deciding factor since they look very similar?

[brossow]

Originally Posted by ARTISTIC

I really like the style of these wheels, they look great on what rides have managed to accomodate them and Ive read through all 37 pages of posts but curious what the big difference between the Boss 338 and AR Torq Thrust II's or the AR Torq Thrust C100's?
Is cost the biggest deciding factor since they look very similar?

Cost is one factor. Being different is another -- there are a bajillion TT2's on the road.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by ARTISTIC

I really like the style of these wheels, they look great on what rides have managed to accomodate them and Ive read through all 37 pages of posts but curious what the big difference between the Boss 338 and AR Torq Thrust II's or the AR Torq Thrust C100's?
Is cost the biggest deciding factor since they look very similar?

Cost is why most want these wheels.
I bought all 4 of my 20" 338's for a little less than $700.
20" Torque Thrust IIs' are between $450-$500 each.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by brossow

Out back, your offset will be way wrong and you'll need spacers (adapters) in the neighborhood of 1" to 1.5". The '68 rearend is considerably narrower than the '88-up these were designed for.

Up front, you can (1) use 1/4" spacers (which will push the wheels too far out to look "right"), (2) machine down the hubs (exact dimensions are provided with a mechanical drawing elsewhere in this thread, probably somewhere in the last 10 pages or so), or (3) swap in light-duty (1") rotors, which will also require different spindles, calipers and anything else associated with that downgrade.

You sure you don't want to consider something else that's designed to fit? Would probably be less expensive when you add it all up and would definitely be a lot easier.

In case you want to go the route I have gone HERE is a link to the pdf files of the mods I did to the 1.25" rotors. You can tell by the pic the rear is set in about 1"-1.5 too far. The wheels look great though and they were cheap (i have access to machines) compared to Coys and TT2s. Good luck!

[brossow]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

In case you want to go the route I have gone HERE is a link to the pdf files of the mods I did to the 1.25" rotors. You can tell by the pic the rear is set in about 1"-1.5 too far. The wheels look great though and they were cheap (i have access to machines) compared to Coys and TT2s. Good luck!

Bingo! Thanks, Mike -- that's the one I was talking about. Forgot who had posted it and when.

[spazzyfry123]

Originally Posted by brossow

Out back, your offset will be way wrong and you'll need spacers (adapters) in the neighborhood of 1" to 1.5". The '68 rearend is considerably narrower than the '88-up these were designed for.

Up front, you can (1) use 1/4" spacers (which will push the wheels too far out to look "right"), (2) machine down the hubs (exact dimensions are provided with a mechanical drawing elsewhere in this thread, probably somewhere in the last 10 pages or so), or (3) swap in light-duty (1") rotors, which will also require different spindles, calipers and anything else associated with that downgrade.

You sure you don't want to consider something else that's designed to fit? Would probably be less expensive when you add it all up and would definitely be a lot easier.

Thanks for the help! The big reason I was drawn to these wheels is that it is more of a modern take on the classic design.

Now if there's something out there that's similar but actually fits, speak to me! I really like the grey-centers... Not big into either chrome or glossy centers. Also if it makes any difference, the truck is tubbed in the rear.



Thanks,
-Tyler
Posted via Mobile Device

[69C-owner]

Here is my question, my truck is going to be a resto-mod, nowhere near fully stock, I plan to put big drilled and slotted rotors and six piston calipers on my truck, I havnt decided on a paticular set yet but I really like these 338's and I want to know if anyone knows a good brake setup to use without modifying anything, I'm also thinking about using airbag suspension, so with aftermarket brakes air bag suspension and maybe spacers what is my cheapest and easiest way to use these wheels, im not like hellbent on these so if it comes right down to it i might just get some really nice TT's and save money on brakes and suspension, any advice?

[mrhino]

just machine down the hubs on the 1.25 rotors like mike said, and glue the dust cap on and your good to go. its not that hard. no spacers either. I converted mine to rear disc maybe thats why didn't need spacers.

[69C-owner]

Ok well the question now is machine it how how and does taking away that material weaken the hub?

[mrhino]

I had a local machine shop do it. Is it weaker than it was? sure, but theres still plenty of material there. if it ever fails, it wont be because of that.

[69C-owner]

Thanks for the info, Do you remember the measurements on how much they took off and how far they went in toward the hub? Im wondering if anyone makes a rotor that is thin enough, I wont be buying the wheels or brakes for a long while so if I can buy a certain brand of brakes I'll save the money up and have my eye on what I need, if I'm wrong correct me but it looks like you've done your conversion with stock replacement parts, I plan on puttin 5 years of work into my truck at least so if i drive around on stock steel wheels for the next 7 years thats no big deal to me lol

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by 69C-owner

Ok well the question now is machine it how how and does taking away that material weaken the hub?

I turned them back on the manual lathe. I have a fixture I made I could send you if you need it. Just send it back to me when your done.

Weaken the hub? I don't think so. I can have my mechanical engineer friends do some calculations but I be the answer is going to be no, not enough to matter. Take a look at your rotor, it's pretty beefy.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by 69C-owner

Thanks for the info, Do you remember the measurements on how much they took off and how far they went in toward the hub?

I made a drawing of the mods I made. There is a link above about five posts. pdf format.

[piecesparts]

We do not have the 1" front hubs. They are the 1.25 brakes and believe me, the wheel fits right onto the hub and seats up against the flat surface that the bolts are mounted. The deal that we noted was the dust cap on the center hob pushed the center cap on the wheel out about 3/16". We did not have to force it, in any way shape or form. This whole discussion kind of confuses me, so far. Been turning wrenches for a few years, too. Need to go look some more.

Originally Posted by mcbassin

You may have the 1" wide front rotors up front. This would allow your wheels to fit flush with the rotor without having to machine them. As for the 10" backspacing I don't know.

[69C-owner]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

I turned them back on the manual lathe. I have a fixture I made I could send you if you need it. Just send it back to me when your done.

Weaken the hub? I don't think so. I can have my mechanical engineer friends do some calculations but I be the answer is going to be no, not enough to matter. Take a look at your rotor, it's pretty beefy.

Thank you for the offer Mike, I just might need that fixture but no time soon, i'll deffinatly let you know later on if i need it.

[spazzyfry123]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

We do not have the 1" front hubs. They are the 1.25 brakes and believe me, the wheel fits right onto the hub and seats up against the flat surface that the bolts are mounted. The deal that we noted was the dust cap on the center hob pushed the center cap on the wheel out about 3/16". We did not have to force it, in any way shape or form. This whole discussion kind of confuses me, so far. Been turning wrenches for a few years, too. Need to go look some more.

I would be interested in hearing more about this!
Posted via Mobile Device

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

We do not have the 1" front hubs. They are the 1.25 brakes and believe me, the wheel fits right onto the hub and seats up against the flat surface that the bolts are mounted. The deal that we noted was the dust cap on the center hob pushed the center cap on the wheel out about 3/16". We did not have to force it, in any way shape or form. This whole discussion kind of confuses me, so far. Been turning wrenches for a few years, too. Need to go look some more.

Frank,
I trust you know what rotors you have. I wonder which revision of wheels you have? Mine were made early last year, I think around Jan.-Feb.? I would like to know what is different about yours? I'm thinking about getting another set, the gray center this time. It would be cool if they would just bolt on.