48 Burb, bagged, 5.3, 20 year wait

[99 to Life]

I'm liking the progress. nice job on the hinges. those things are noooot cheap if you buy repros, so fixing them is def worth it.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by blake's first

Just a quick question On the AD trucks are the cabs the same on a pickup as a one tone truck

Blake, yes the cabs are the same.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

I'm liking the progress. nice job on the hinges. those things are noooot cheap if you buy repros, so fixing them is def worth it.

Thanks 99. Didn't need the bushings amazingly enough. The pins were siezed up though and I guess the doors didn't get much use. They were probably never lubed.

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Hey Jim, Happy New Year to you guys too! Did you notice I am using your flanged nut idea? LOL!

Doug, I always just used regular nut, Mark came up with the flanged nut, more area to weld.

The bag of 100 are called Tee Nuts, used in wood alot. I used them in many builds, also more to weld too. I've used them up to 3/8", not sure if they make them in larger sizes...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Doug, I always just used regular nut, Mark came up with the flanged nut, more area to weld.

The bag of 100 are called Tee Nuts, used in wood alot. I used them in many builds, also more to weld too. I've used them up to 3/8", not sure if they make them in larger sizes...Jim

Thank you Jim. I was drawing a blank on the name for tee nuts. Fastenal has them up to 3/8". Those would be handy in a number of applications.

Sorry Mark, I was giving Jim credit for the flanged nut idea. Works really well!

One of the benefits of spending time here is learning from each other.

Here is a link to tee nuts.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...ee%20Nuts%22|~

[reaper71]

No worries my friend!!
Things like this get passed down from generation to generation AKA Hot Rodding

Mark...

[lower50's]

Nice work AD. I like your tank and compressor location. What kind of lines are you running?

[Advanced Design]

Thanks Lower, nothing trick on the lines. Just using the dot stuff that came from Ridetech is my plan. Except for the final run to the front bags, where I have a steel braided set up to make use of. And I am always open for suggestions.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by reaper71

No worries my friend!!
Things like this get passed down from generation to generation AKA Hot Rodding

Mark...

For sure Mark. I have certainly picked up a lot of good ideas on here!

Hey Marc, here is the crossmember I mentioned in the PM. I took it out for fuel tank clearance.

[Advanced Design]

Then I threw the body back on the frame to measure for a fuel tank. This one was a custom piece that was in the 56 Chevy when it had the irs and is 4 inches shorter. I think the unit from Tanks will work really well, if it will fit. There is room between the frame and body for the fill to go through the lower body behind the left tire, then turn up and exit through the fender. A friend has one for his current 52 Buick build so I will probably borrow it for test fitting before buying one.

I was also pretty happy with the fit of the tanks and pumps, not so happy with the battery box location. It clears the body well, though with the running boards on I don't know that I can service the battery. Ha on me....restoration guys are pointing and laughing.

[Advanced Design]

Moving to the other end of the vehicle in figuring out what fits, a friend found this ac compressor mount at Vintage Air. Looks like it will provide clearance to the right inner fender and works with the truck accessory drive. It might interfere with a thermostat housing that points straight forward.

http://www.vintageair.com/2015%20Cat...talog%2068.pdf

[Advanced Design]

And if the 56 tank won't work....it might be too long front to back....the 53 / 54 tank from Tanks is a possibility. Especially if the filler neck connection unbolts like it shows in the picture.

Wouldn't it be great to have all these parts on a shelf so you could just grab one and test fit, instead of guessing based on measurements and pictures?

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

For sure Mark. I have certainly picked up a lot of good ideas on here!

Hey Marc, here is the crossmember I mentioned in the PM. I took it out for fuel tank clearance.

So did you confirm that that brace you removed was not used as for the rear body mounts? Again, I could be wrong.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

So did you confirm that that brace you removed was not used as for the rear body mounts? Again, I could be wrong.

Marc

I don't think it was on this Burb Marc. I didn't remember removing any body bolts in this area. To confirm, I checked out the original floor and crossmember. There are no witness marks showing a mount.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

I don't think it was on this Burb Marc. I didn't remember removing any body bolts in this area. To confirm, I checked out the original floor and crossmember. There are no witness marks showing a mount.

Thanks Doug. Sorry to put you through the trouble. You beat me to it. I was going to go out to the garage and look at my stock floor to confirm.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

No problem Marc. I looked yesterday before I took the crossmember out. Glad you mentioned it just in case I needed it.

Another option for the fuel tank is this one for a 65 Burb a friend is building. Going to test fit it in addition to a couple of others. And will evaluate the 69 Mustang with this type of fill too.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Moving to the other end of the vehicle in figuring out what fits, a friend found this ac compressor mount at Vintage Air. Looks like it will provide clearance to the right inner fender and works with the truck accessory drive. It might interfere with a thermostat housing that points straight forward.

http://www.vintageair.com/2015%20Cat...talog%2068.pdf

I have this one! The compressor clears, but the tensioner *just* hits the inner fender - I am planning to make a vertical cut in the inner fender and bow it outward ~3/8" to make a pocket and gain the clearance I need.

I suspect, since your engine is about 1" further back than mine, you should be good to go without modifications

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

I have this one! The compressor clears, but the tensioner *just* hits the inner fender - I am planning to make a vertical cut in the inner fender and bow it outward ~3/8" to make a pocket and gain the clearance I need.

I suspect, since your engine is about 1" further back than mine, you should be good to go without modifications

Thanks JJ! Good to know.

I just came across another fuel tank option dwcsr linked us to on one of his builds. Didn't remember this one. 68 Camaro tank. Looks like a good option.

[65sub]

Hi A.D. I 've been searching for a tank for my truck too. Lots of options available but I couldn't find any that worked for me so I decided to build my own. I bought a sheet of stainless steel and then all the hardware from Tanks Inc. Probably a more expensive route but it will fit. If you find a tank that fits you could move the fill location with parts from Tanks Inc.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by 65sub

Hi A.D. I 've been searching for a tank for my truck too. Lots of options available but I couldn't find any that worked for me so I decided to build my own. I bought a sheet of stainless steel and then all the hardware from Tanks Inc. Probably a more expensive route but it will fit. If you find a tank that fits you could move the fill location with parts from Tanks Inc.

Thanks 65sub. I was just over on Tanks website tonight looking at dimensions and parts needed. The 68 Camaro fuel injection tank is a good possible solution, if it doesn't hang down too low to do the side fill I have in mind.

Hope you post up your tank build as I would like to follow that!

[Advanced Design]

Well, after lots of measuring, thinking and research I am 99% sure of going with the 68 Camaro fuel injection Tank from Tanks.

Next I wanted to make sure the rear fenders and running boards would fit again with this new chassis. Before I mounted the rear fender I still had 6 or 7 Reaper71 inspired flanged nuts to locate, drill for and install.

Another thing I learned on here was to turn the wire speed up on overhead welding from a comment one of the guys mentioned somewhere. I did and what a difference in the weld quality.

Anyway, the wheel centers nicely.... yeah, ugly shop rollers.

[Advanced Design]

Install the running boards....I learned there was a difference on my brackets and the left front one was at an angle pointing forward that didn't want to match up with the running board. Hmmm...right front is the same so I swapped them side to side. That worked.

Anyway, mounting the running boards to see if the truck really needs the rear bracket. The 4 link arms mount to the outside of the frame right where the bracket went.

And before I mount the left board I rediscovered the center mount on the left board was trashed.

[Advanced Design]

The swag press brake was really handy for this. Using 16 gauge steel I ended up fabricating one from 3 pieces, left side, top and right side. The piece was too narrow for the press brake to make it from one piece.

Old saw horses and 2x boards sure make a handy cutting bench.

[Advanced Design]

Drilled holes and slotted to use the square shank mounting bolts. Of course I did a lot of in place fitting before drilling and plug welding in place.

This took most of two Saturdays as we've been spending a lot of time with the Grandsons coming over. Prayers answered and God is good!

[FarmerSid]

Nice fab work Doug! I will have to do the same with a couple running board mounts too.