Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[88Stanger]

and more

[88Stanger]

some with the CPP 2" Drop Spindles: Before powder coated

[88Stanger]

and after powder coated

[88Stanger]

Moved the battery tray to under the cab

[88Stanger]

Rims and Tires
The rims are gloss black on the lip and then flat black on the inside spokes.
9.5" in rear and 8" up front

[88Stanger]

Rebuilt Rearend with 3:42 Posi gears should be good with muncie 4-speed

[88Stanger]

more to come soon

[Captainfab]

Looking really good!

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Looking really good!

Thank you, from you that means alot!
I know you have heard this a thousand times, but damn sir your stuff is just unreal, works perfect, looks fantastic, thank you.
Oh damn, i need to get a pic of the power steering box mounted with your mount, i will get that done.

[0ldSoul]

I've heard nothing but good things about EZ Airride, pretty sure when I convert mine to air I'll be using his kit. Loving the progress, it looks immaculate. Also, I'm digging the flat black/gloss combo on the wheels!

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by 0ldSoul

I've heard nothing but good things about EZ Airride, pretty sure when I convert mine to air I'll be using his kit. Loving the progress, it looks immaculate. Also, I'm digging the flat black/gloss combo on the wheels!

Thank you sir.
Yea, Steve with EZ Air Ride is awesome. He will honestly tell you what you need, he will not over sell something, and he is always there if you need, questions and such.
The rims, it was interesting because i nor the guy selling them really knew that this was how they are, and now he is looking at a set for this car. They really are a cool look, not cheap but not expensive really either.

[88Stanger]

Ok all, I am stuck and frustrated.

Here is my issue. I have CPP 2.5 drop spindles, CaptainFab's power steering conversion with new power steering box installed, new pitman arm installed and a 1966 C10 non power steering center link.
I have a full front end rebuild kit, i mean everything from new ball joints, to bushings and such for the stock upper and lower arms, and so on. I am not sure what year or years the kit is from and no i cannot find where i bought the kit from, but anyways the parts all put together will not work. The center link is hitting the frame.
So, here is where i am. I will buy a new kit, whatever i need, i just do not know what works. As you can tell i am not good at front ends, i am learning. So, any help here is greatly appreciated!!

Thanks

[88Stanger]

ok, so i went out and took another look and here is what i found. If i move the idler arm forward about 1.5" everything seems to line up. Please correct me if i am wrong, but will this work?

[SCOTI]

Verify you don't have the center link flipped. It's a common mistake.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Verify you don't have the center link flipped. It's a common mistake.

Thank you Scoti, i did. You cannot flip it as the hole in it for the pitman arm is tapered and will only go on one way, from what i can tell. I did try it though and that is what i found.
Otherwise, what do you think?

[SCOTI]

Did you drill the 2nd set of Idler bracket holes or were they already in the frame?

[88Stanger]

One hole exits, other did not, yet.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

One hole exits, other did not, yet.

Ahh.... Your statement confused me but then I looked @ your reference pic again & noticed only 1 bolt securing the Idler bracket.

That is weird. The holes are placed to keep the steering pivot points parallel. I've never looked into Captainfabs power steering adapter set-up to know specifics but I'm assuming it doesn't alter anything so the Idler position shouldn't change.

Something doesn't seem right w/that so keep scrutinizing the parts compatibility. I'm wondering if you need a later center-link? When I did my early drum-to-disc brake swaps in the 90's I swapped to 71-72 center-links to keep the tie-rods consistent. I never investigated if the center-links were physically different beyond that.

[88Stanger]

i am waiting for a response from CaptainFab on what kit or parts he suggest to use.
I did find that POL has a specific Pitarm arm made for the power steering conversion. It may be shorter than the standard 1970 pitarm i have, but that still may cause issues with how and where the idler arm is mounted, this i am not sure of, so i get whatever CaptainFab suggests.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

i am waiting for a response from CaptainFab on what kit or parts he suggest to use.
I did find that POL has a specific Pitarm arm made for the power steering conversion. It may be shorter than the standard 1970 pitarm i have, but that still may cause issues with how and where the idler arm is mounted, this i am not sure of, so i get whatever CaptainFab suggests.

I would verify if there's a difference & then ask POL why their set-up requires a 'specific' (different vs stock manual-to-power replacement p/n) pitman.
Manual to power steering swaps require different pitman arms from the factory. I would find out if their Pitman arm is different beyond that.

[Captainfab]

With the steering box located using the included template, the stock draglink should not be touching the crossmember with the idler arm in it's original location. Do you have the pitman arm on all the way? And the pitman arm is something special from POL?

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

With the steering box located using the included template, the stock draglink should not be touching the crossmember with the idler arm in it's original location. Do you have the pitman arm on all the way? And the pitman arm is something special from POL?

Thank you CaptainFab for your reply.
To be honest, i have not tightened it (Pitman) all the way. I think i know where you are going with the this. If it is all the tight, it will raise the bar height, getting it above the flat part of the crossmember and closer to the notched, angled back part. I will try that immediately today. i will owe you and Scotti a big apology if that is all it is. I also sent you a PM on your question.
The front end CCP lowering kit is from CPP, it is for drop spindle disc conversion for 1963 - 1970 C10. The full front end rebuild kit is for 1965-1966 Chevy C10.
Now my only issue may be the tie rods ends that go into the spindle may not be the right size, but they seem to fit good. Thoughts?

Thanks again to all of you for your help!!!

[88Stanger]

Well damn! I got that damn Pitman arm about 1/2 way, using an air racket even! Arm still Hits! So, with all that said, mu frustration level at a high, I found that POL sells a direct bolt on Rack & Pinion system that works with airbags and lowered trucks. No frame alterations required, so..... i am thinking i will go that route. Also less parts on the front suspension and it costs $886.00, i think i may just order this and call it all good. I will have a bunch of extra parts for sale for sure.

[88Stanger]

Ok, so i pulled the trigger and bought the No Modification Required bolt in Powered Rack & Pinion from POL. its like, if i am going to do this, go all out, to some extent.

Also, i bought an aluminium finned differential cover from Jegs. Well, when i put the rear all the up into the c-notch the track arm hits the cover, bad. So, i am thinking that i will just need to stick with stock. Sucks because i really like it, but oh well. I may see if i could grind off part of the fins, but i just hate doing this kind of thing. If it does not work the way it was maid, maybe that is a sign to just go with stock.

[Captainfab]

Do those CPP tubular control arms move the spindle rearward even just a little? That would cause the interference. Is the pitman arm you got from POL an exact OEM replacement? Those aftermarket aluminum differential covers require a panhard bar with a jog in it. Someone makes one, I just don't remember who.