An expensive lesson learned

[oldgold70c10]

Originally Posted by rustyrodknocker

my next point is the vast majority of these old rigs [meaning millions] are running off the shelf motor oil. If it was devastating to flat tappet motors, these trucks would be stacking up in the ditch.

Thank you. Based on what a lot are saying in this thread, all of my rides should have had wiped cams 5 or 6 years ago. For several years, before I rebuilt my truck's engine, I used the cheap Q-state oil, and it was lucky if I changed that oil every 10,000 miles! It had 212,000 miles on it and still ran down the road when I pulled it. I don't use Q-state any more and change oil every 3,000 miles, but I don't worry about ZDDP, and they still work. I don't have any non-stock, aggressive cams either.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by oldgold70c10

Thank you. Based on what a lot are saying in this thread, all of my rides should have had wiped cams 5 or 6 years ago. For several years, before I rebuilt my truck's engine, I used the cheap Q-state oil, and it was lucky if I changed that oil every 10,000 miles! It had 212,000 miles on it and still ran down the road when I pulled it. I don't use Q-state any more and change oil every 3,000 miles, but I don't worry about ZDDP, and they still work. I don't have any non-stock, aggressive cams either.

Don't ever under estimate "cheap" Quaker State. I have documented over 325K on one car and another with over 200K. Quaker is good stuff. For the record I have never believed in the 3000 oil change. Unless you live on 5 miles of dirt road.

[y5mgisi]

Subscribed for the good info.

[rustyrodknocker]

Originally Posted by oldgold70c10

Thank you. Based on what a lot are saying in this thread, all of my rides should have had wiped cams 5 or 6 years ago. For several years, before I rebuilt my truck's engine, I used the cheap Q-state oil, and it was lucky if I changed that oil every 10,000 miles! It had 212,000 miles on it and still ran down the road when I pulled it. I don't use Q-state any more and change oil every 3,000 miles, but I don't worry about ZDDP, and they still work. I don't have any non-stock, aggressive cams either.

yea, I just don't think the sky is falling as fast as some people. Not that I don't think its falling but you have to take the big numbers into consideration. thousands of home bulders and crate buyers are putting these motors into service without epedemic level failures. but the zinc content was there for a reason and its removal is not a plus. I have followed the oil science off and on for ten years. If there is any Harley guys on here they might know what I mean. When manufacturers refused to disclose what was or was not in there oil major publications began to have them analyzed and published the results for all to see. Speaking of Q state I did some work in a Q state / pennsoil plant when they changed from one product to another nothing changed except the color of the bottle. It was fun to watch. since this thread has bee hyjacked . [I apologise for my part] I would love to know why the viscocity of some same weight oils are so different at room temperature. ever notice that?

[treveiger]

Originally Posted by stich626

because of emmission controls, ALL on road oils lost it's zinc, (government mandated) heavy deisel oil lost it next..
your amsoil and r/p are no different..
unless you buy the off road only.. racing oil..

the r/p rep. flat out said there oil for street use isn't a good idea with flat tappets.. guess he has no clue

This isn't off road or racing oil specific? I use this in my truck...

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx
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[stich626]

Originally Posted by treveiger

This isn't off road or racing oil specific? I use this in my truck...

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx
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good luck with it.. try for sh ts and giggles pulling a spring and testing it's pressure, ya a weak(dead)spring on a .3 lift lobe might slide by..
again good luck.. the need for the zinc isn't some ole wifes tail..
and some of this bad info, like say'n amsol is fine, is why new engines are failing within 5-10k after break in..

my engines have to much money in them to "chance it" anything under 1200ppm is not enough
and it's not just the cams and lifters it's the valve stems and rocker tips and balls. (non roller) any part that slides.
new engines don't have these issues, as most are ohc and the hold out ls is roller

[watahyahknow]

oops just figured out it isnt a connectingrod but a pushrod , did you check the clearance on the springwindings at full lift , it could allso be if you have hydraulic lifters that the one with the bend pushrod pumps up a but under stress check the return oilhole inside the lifterbore and if theres a hole in a different place compared to the other lifters or holes you can allso check the oilseal on top of the valveguide to see if by any chance the thingy holding the spring to the valvestem hit it ..... that should be eaziest to check first right after checking the windings at full lift allso check if the rocker is hitting the valve straight on , basicly anything that can cause binding

[slikside]

Originally Posted by slikside

Thanks for posting/starting this thread.....really sorry to hear about your motor.

Got me thinking about the oil I've been using...Castrol GTX High Milage, it's a blend.

Just called Castrol today and found out that oil is NOT recommended for my original/stock '72 c10 350. I figured "high milage"...that's me! Wrong!

Castrol Edge Syntec is a full synthetic with a higher zinc/zddp formulation specifically for older vehicles.

So is the Valvolene VR1, but it comes as a coventional oil as well.

While I've been using the GTX HM for over a year, I think I've only put about 3-400 miles on it....and it was running strong when I last drove it....
But I'm not even going to start the engine again until I change the oil to one better suited for my engine. Be it synthetic or conventional.

Castrol Edge Syntec comes in multiple weights, but ONLY the 5W-50 weight has the specific formulation for older vehicles/flat tappet cams. I just wanted to clarify.

[treveiger]

Originally Posted by stich626

good luck with it.. try for sh ts and giggles pulling a spring and testing it's pressure, ya a weak(dead)spring on a .3 lift lobe might slide by..
again good luck.. the need for the zinc isn't some ole wifes tail..
and some of this bad info, like say'n amsol is fine, is why new engines are failing within 5-10k after break in..

my engines have to much money in them to "chance it" anything under 1200ppm is not enough
and it's not just the cams and lifters it's the valve stems and rocker tips and balls. (non roller) any part that slides.
new engines don't have these issues, as most are ohc and the hold out ls is roller

my motors rebuilt not so long ago and this oil runs great in it(did you read what its ment for? Flat tappet cams an older engines...) and I'm not easy on my motors at all an ams oil has never let me down.
To say that its ams oils fault that cars blow up is a sad remark. My bro in law runs it in his corolla since brand new an has the oil tested regularly an NO PROBLEMS of wear what so ever. It won't protect driver stupidity, no oil can. I've seen proof that ams oil works an others don't compare... Sorry truth hurts sometimes.
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[stich626]

Originally Posted by treveiger

my motors rebuilt not so long ago and this oil runs great in it(did you read what its ment for? Flat tappet cams an older engines...) and I'm not easy on my motors at all an ams oil has never let me down.
To say that its ams oils fault that cars blow up is a sad remark. My bro in law runs it in his corolla since brand new an has the oil tested regularly an NO PROBLEMS of wear what so ever. It won't protect driver stupidity, no oil can. I've seen proof that ams oil works an others don't compare... Sorry truth hurts sometimes.
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whatever you say.

[k5hart]

Originally Posted by treveiger

corolla ... Sorry truth hurts sometimes.
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Big difference between a Corolla and our trucks.

[leddzepp]

I think this thread has now just about run it's course...