Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[Richard2112]

Excellent detail, nice work. I like the Hurst shifter (funny, sometimes it's the little things that catch the eye), a real classic touch

[88Stanger]

Now its onto brake lines, air lines and fuel lines, routing and securing to frame or ....
I have the fuel line - PTFE with all -6an fittings, all air lines which i can only do so much with until the cab is mounted because the lines go into the cab to the gauges. The air tank and pump will be mounted in the bed. My issue is where to get brake lines.

[Paul Y]

Looking good Jeff!

Appreciate your time on Thursday, will keep you updated.

P.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Looking good Jeff!

Appreciate your time on Thursday, will keep you updated.

P.

Sounds good Paul, thank you

[88Stanger]

Ok, so interesting thing happened. I was looking at where to position the pan hard bar to center the truck, making sure to set it close to "Ride Height" and i noticed a few things. The axle will move from one side to the other side by a good amount. From approx. 1/2 of travel with rear the axle will move 1 to 1.5" to one side when all the way down and then when fully extended 1 to 1.5" the the other way from a neutral position. I found that very interesting. I knew it moved, just never really seen it but with no air in bags the travel is easy and noticeable. With all that said, i have good shocks that allow for alot of travel, enough that i am concerned with the load it puts on the bags when frame is lifted and the rear is allowed to be free floating. It puts what i would call too much "Pull" on them. So, i am looking at installing some kind of rearend travel limiting straps. My big issue is i do not want to weld tabs onto the frame of the axle as they are all powder coated. So i am looking for ideas. Anyone?
Thanks for the time.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Ok, so interesting thing happened. I was looking at where to position the pan hard bar to center the truck, making sure to set it close to "Ride Height" and i noticed a few things. The axle will move from one side to the other side by a good amount. From approx. 1/2 of travel with rear the axle will move 1 to 1.5" to one side when all the way down and then when fully extended 1 to 1.5" the the other way from a neutral position. I found that very interesting. I knew it moved, just never really seen it but with no air in bags the travel is easy and noticeable. With all that said, i have good shocks that allow for alot of travel, enough that i am concerned with the load it puts on the bags when frame is lifted and the rear is allowed to be free floating. It puts what i would call too much "Pull" on them. So, i am looking at installing some kind of rearend travel limiting straps. My big issue is i do not want to weld tabs onto the frame of the axle as they are all powder coated. So i am looking for ideas. Anyone?
Thanks for the time.

A bolt-on anchor/tab somewhere where there are already holes in the frame is what I would look @ using. That being said, once the PHB is set @ ride height, it shouldn't be an issue. It's not like you'd be driving with it all the way down & then suddenly all the way up.

You'll get a feel for your ride height pressures & will be able to adjust height w/fairly 'obvious' adjustment limits.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

A bolt-on anchor/tab somewhere where there are already holes in the frame is what I would look @ using. That being said, once the PHB is set @ ride height, it shouldn't be an issue. It's not like you'd be driving with it all the way down & then suddenly all the way up.

You'll get a feel for your ride height pressures & will be able to adjust height w/fairly 'obvious' adjustment limits.

I appreciate the comment and idea. As you said i will not have it up in the air much ever, but just in case i do need to check tires, rearend, and so on i want to be careful with the bags. So i got 11" axle straps and bolt on axle brackets from Speedway Motors that are made for leaf spring mounting, so they have a flat surface to mount one side of the Limiting straps and then i will make a plate to mount to the brace that the upper shock mounts bolt to to hold the other end of the strap. Seems like it is just one thing after another... lol

[88Stanger]

Ok, now i have a question for the exhaust. I am looking at doing a kit myself. There are several to pick from, 2.5" or 3", mild steel or stainless steel. I am wondering what everyone else has done? A Shop will be about $600.00 to build and install.
I have long tube headers, I want the exhaust to exit just before the rear tires on each side with flat type exhaust tips (kinda like NASCAR), i do own a miller Tig machine, now it has been a while since i used a tig welder, but i am not scared to go again at it.
Costs for mild to Stainless is crazy! So, with all that said, suggestions? Size, type...
Thanks.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Ok, now i have a question for the exhaust. I am looking at doing a kit myself. There are several to pick from, 2.5" or 3", mild steel or stainless steel. I am wondering what everyone else has done? A Shop will be about $600.00 to build and install.
I have long tube headers, I want the exhaust to exit just before the rear tires on each side with flat type exhaust tips (kinda like NASCAR), i do own a miller Tig machine, now it has been a while since i used a tig welder, but i am not scared to go again at it.
Costs for mild to Stainless is crazy! So, with all that said, suggestions? Size, type...
Thanks.

What size are the headers (primary & collector)?

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What size are the headers (primary & collector)?

Very good question. i apologize, i should know this. So i have a set of Stans Tri-
Y headers that were for my 69 C10. Not sure they will fit, but also i am not concerned about having to use them or buy a different set, shorties, ceramic coated, ..... I should look into this first.
Suggestions?

[88Stanger]

Ok, so i believe i found a set of long tubes that are ceramic coated. They have 1.5" primary's and 3" Collector.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Ok, so i believe i found a set of long tubes that are ceramic coated. They have 1.5" primary's and 3" Collector.

You want the most out of the motor? You need the headers sized accordingly (within reason). A 383 w/any decent cam & heads can move some air. 1.5" primary tubes will work but a 1 5/8 primary is better suited.

Beyond that, 2.5" true duals w/a H-pipe or X- crossover would be a decent set-up. Summit has a aluminized universal kit as well as a SS version.

[Captainfab]

This comes to mind

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-89027

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

This comes to mind

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-89027

Thanks Captainfab, it is in the wishlist for summit. I have no knowledge of what thrush exhaust sounds like honestly. I am a big fan of good ole Flowmasters. but sometimes change is good.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You want the most out of the motor? You need the headers sized accordingly (within reason). A 383 w/any decent cam & heads can move some air. 1.5" primary tubes will work but a 1 5/8 primary is better suited.

Beyond that, 2.5" true duals w/a H-pipe or X- crossover would be a decent set-up. Summit has a aluminized universal kit as well as a SS version.

Thank you sir. It funny you post this and i have been doing some research into how to pick header size and length, x vs h pipe and full size of exhaust. I came to the conclusion you show also. The negative with the larger headers are the issues with plugs and burning wires, that is basically the only neg. that i found. I am going with the 2.5" exhaust, even looking at kit Captainfab posted.
Thanks again Scoti.

[88Stanger]

So i have not done much to the "66 recently. I have a complete rebuilt "69 C10 with an LS and i have had some issues with the damn ebay bought hydroboost system i bought. By the way, DO NOT DO THIS unless its from a good company!! Mine was from some joe blow and that is exactly what happened to to it, it just blows. LOL I was also dumb and did not get Captainfab's mount, that was also stupid of me!! So, today is install the complete new hydroboost kit bought from POL.
With that said, i did get the axle limiting strap and mount in yesterday. I think the idea I have will work great. Simple but effective. I will get that one once i have the "69 done, hopefully today.
Note: i bought two sets of the harbor freight 1000lb car dollies. Amazingly they work rather good.

[88Stanger]

Well i got a new shop buddy or should i say girl buddy....
Just had to post ... sorry...
Boston Terrier - 6 weeks and 2 days old.... Zoey

[0ldSoul]

Build is looking better and better Jeff

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by 0ldSoul

Build is looking better and better Jeff

Thank you sir!! i appreciate it!

[Metaldoc]

Nice job on the whole project so far, keep it up. Love the tri-Y headers, you don't see the effort it takes to build these trucks after you open the worm can.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

Nice job on the whole project so far, keep it up. Love the tri-Y headers, you don't see the effort it takes to build these trucks after you open the worm can.

Thank you, i appreciate that.
It is sort of funny. So I built my 69 C10 from the ground up also, but no where near this in-depth, or costly. lol I tell people that you can do these trucks for a very moderate amount of $$ or you can really go nuts and spend $$$$$ on them and I feel as I am somewhere in the middle. But the work involved also depends on as you said, how much you open the worm can.... lol

[88Stanger]

Ok, need some help here. I have a rebuilt 383 stoker with brand new 11" flywheel, im trying to install a hydraulic throw out bearing with a bran new McLeod 11" Street/pro clutch. I have installed the flywheel - no issue. Get the clutch disc in with alignment tool and install the actual clutch, tighten all the bolts down 1/4 turn until tight, then to 35lbs as directed in 3 equal torque settings. Then i install the brand new bell housing, no issue. After all this i go to measure the distance from several of the clutch teeth to the front top surface of the bell housing and i am getting some differences, up to .030. I plan to measure all of them tomorrow and see what all differences area. They say to have .100 to .150 total difference for the throwout bearing, but to what measurement? Average of all the fingers or ?? Is there possible differences to be expected in the teeth? Anyone have any experience with this?!?!
Thanks so much for all the help.

[88Stanger]

UPDATE:
So, its been a bit since i last got to update on here, so here is what i have been up to on this project.
As i stated in my previous post, i have been trying to install the brand new Mcleod Clutch onto the brand new flywheel. With that said i then try to set it up for the new Hydraulic Throw out bearing and well found some interesting things with the Fingers on the clutch, they are not uniform. Even out of the box they are not. Difference from highest to lowest = .043" So with this said, where do i set the bearing clearance to? Recommended to have .100 to .150, so do i set it at the lowest so that it fits in between the .100 to .150?
I have done a bunch of research and it seems that many say if this is the case that the fingers are not even, do not install, it is defective.
Pics attached:

[88Stanger]

So, now after i install it, following every example of how to install a clutch correctly, by going in a star pattern, slowing tightening 1/4 turn at a time to finally 35lbs torqued and re-measure the heights and now the difference is .083 and you can see the difference.
I have unbolted and re-bolted it up several times, even just bolted up to where the clutch housing is just touching the flywheel and the bolts are tight, still off. Pics att

[88Stanger]

more pics: