1971 c-10 teardown & frame up resto

[skyreep1]

Well today was spent on engine stuff... First, new distributor cap, coil, plugs, and wires from o riley. Unfortunately when I got back and put all that on, still no fire to plug #1. So then I went to advance to get rotor button, condenser, and points. Everything was gonna work, I was sure of it, but as I my dad handed me the condenser and the screw for it, the screw dropped down into the grass... UGH. Fortunatly I have a big bar magnet that will hopefully pick it up tommorow.

Now for the good news. At one time, as you may know, I commented that I wanted to be able to outrun my firends 1980 GMC with a 4 bbl 350. At first I wasn't very optimistic since mine only has a 307 2bbl. Today though I bough a chilton repair manual for 1970-79 and as I looked at the HP chart I found this,
apparently after 1971 the engine horse power just dropped out. The chart states that the advertised horsepower on a 1971 2bbl 307 is 200HP @ 4600RPM, After that the 1972 2bbl 207 (note ONE YEAR LATER) the HP on a 307 @ 3600RPM is only 130HP... ??????? by the year 1979 a 305 2bbl still has only 140HP @ 4000RPM . Lets say my friends 4bbl 350 was a 1979, only one year away, A 350 would only have about 145-155 @ 3600-3800 RPM. Also at only 400 more RPMs my truck has almost 100 more ft lbs pf torque than a 79 350..

Tell me something... does this mean my old jalopy can haul more ass than his?? =]

Let's hope =P If nothing else I can throw a hidden nitrous bottle in a toolbox in tha back. That is if I ever get mine runnin.

Lemme know watcha think about the HP guys. Both the truck have 100 on the speedo but that doesnt mean much

[Hottrucks]

trans gears and weight are what you need to worry about..nitriuos thats funny.....

[skyreep1]

Lolz yes, it was a joke =) im flat broke son, forget NOS

I'll be lucky if I can buy new bulbs =P

[skyreep1]

BTW Im pretty sure its the rotor button that was killin her fire. She'll turn over like a champ but the fire just isnt gettin there. Everything that I took off looked brand spankin new though.

The only things I found wrong is that
#1 : There was only one screw in the rotor

#2 : There was slight corrosion on the rotor

Just to be sure I used a voltmeter to check and make sure the distributor was gettin power from the battery and yea, Its drawing 12.4 on the points and it 12.5 sitton straight on the posts.

I also put on new battery and put in brake fluid (fixed my bake problem), and finally I put new battery clamps on her.

Makes me feel slightly accomplished even if she didnt crank today.

[msgross]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

..nitriuos thats funny.....

his dad wants it stock...

BTW, there should only be 6-9 volts at the coil... HEI's take 12volts, but we won't mention that...

engines take gas, air and spark to work...

[skyreep1]

My dad has cancer and probably wont make it till the end of the year. He has always told me that the best way to restore any car was as stock as you can get it. While he's still around I would like to make an impression that I listen to him. Therefore it stays stock. The end on that one, dont beat a dead horse.

And all im sayin is that before it makes the gap at the point (.019) the distributor is takin in 12.5v . In other words on the point unit, without the condenser installed, and with a voltmeter on the points, It still has 12.5v.

If youre sayin its an HEI, its not because I know the difference. For one thing I wouldnt be doin all this s#&@ if it was. This is how dad has always wanted it though and so thats how it stays.

[msgross]

no, what i'm saying is that that main coil wire coming from your fuse box won't be 12V. It is a resistance wire that brings it down to 6 or 9V. I don't know a thing about points, dwell, gaps etc...

[skyreep1]

Okay well, after a true PITA of a day, she lives.

Replaced everything. Rotor, coil, condenser, points, wires, plugs, and she still wouldnt crank.

Finally I pulled my distributor wire out to be able to look it over. There was something strange about it but I wasnt sure what so as they turned the key and I got no spark I started playin with the wire and when I started turning it the points would spark!!! I looked at it some more to find out it was crimped. Couldnt even see a hole or nuthin. I cut it and reused the open faced clip, put the rotor and cap back on, sprayed some starter fluid and she cranked right up! Purrin like a kitten.

Now I do have one question. Right now she has a straight pipe on it with a glass pack cherry bomb that leaks. I wanna do it stock and dad is gonna come through with the money to fix her right with a pro paintjob and everything. So now I'm only wondering, where can I get an OEM or factory spec exhaust sytem. I would prefer duals but since it didnt come that way I think Ill keep it single. Lemme Know! thanks guyz

[msgross]

I think LMC has factory type exhaust, I would just have a local muffler shop do it. It should have a Y pipe, 1 round muffler and a tailpipe.

[skyreep1]

Any other ideas? Didn't v8s have dual exhausts? And where is the stock exit? Also what do you mean by round muffler?

[smn69]

Stock for a 307 was single that ran through a standard round (large diameter and quiet) muffler and out behind the rear drivers side tire. I am not sure what trim packages came with a dual setup.

[msgross]

like this..

[Hottrucks]

you can buy or have a dual system built with a pair of good mufflers and exit it behind the rear wheel......do nott exit it straight out if you ever tow with it what ever is behind you will get covered with exhaust smoke......trust me on that one

[skyreep1]

Thank you soo much guys. You've all been a ton of help and I would just like to thank you. I was gonna drive her home tonight but I put two qrts of trans fluid and its still way low. Plus no tags, insurance, tail lights, headlights. So it'll probably end up waiting until next week.

kinda off topic but unfortunatly my great aunt Dolly is dying tonight up in penns. She is the last of my grandmothers family and she was always like a grandmother to me.

Therefore, I won't be back in NC until next week, and until then the truck will have to sit where she's at.

Again thanks guys. Wish me good luck.

[msgross]

no problem, good luck with the family.

[skyreep1]

Okay back,
She's ookay for now =]

Anyways, got my bondo, and self etching duplicolor primer (all they had was a dark tan color), Oh and a gallon of PB blaster

So now I'm wondering, am I choosing the right primer to go over the bare metal/bondo ??? It'll prolly stay on for a few months as I slowly take one panel at a time down to bare metal. Is this what I should start with? I have experience with bondo, just not so much with priming/painting.

Oh and I found a HUGE 250 Gal. diesal engine sandblaster for $100.00 =]

This baby blows

Anyway, more Q's to come!
thank guys

[skyreep1]

BUMP

Do i just do sanding down to bare metal and then bondo where there was surface rust then what next? self etch primer? or epoxy primer?

Also what exactly is soda blasting? and what is it good for? is there a way I can just sand/soda blast my body panels down to bare metal?

[smn69]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

BUMP

Do i just do sanding down to bare metal and then bondo where there was surface rust then what next? self etch primer? or epoxy primer?

Also what exactly is soda blasting? and what is it good for? is there a way I can just sand/soda blast my body panels down to bare metal?

Be real careful "sand" blasting you panels. Sand creates a lot of heat and you can warp them pretty bad. Soda does not work real well on rust and leaves a residue that if not cleaned real good can cause problems down the road. There are other types of media that work for car panels, maybe someone else will chime in on what is best to use.

[msgross]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

BUMP

Do i just do sanding down to bare metal and then bondo where there was surface rust then what next? self etch primer? or epoxy primer?

Also what exactly is soda blasting? and what is it good for? is there a way I can just sand/soda blast my body panels down to bare metal?

RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH young Jedi...


start looking at painting websites, our paint section, google etc...

using sand is dangerous to your health without proper equipment, soda leaves residue that can haunt you later, I used black beauty coal slag on my frame, I WILL NEVER DO IT AGAIN! messy, time consuming, and not worth my time.

[cedorris]

Originally Posted by skyreep1

BUMP

Do i just do sanding down to bare metal and then bondo where there was surface rust then what next? self etch primer? or epoxy primer?

Also what exactly is soda blasting? and what is it good for? is there a way I can just sand/soda blast my body panels down to bare metal?

I just had my entire cab blasted, inside and out, with a glass based media. It is supposed to prevent many of the issues caused by plain sand.

There was no warping and it did a great job on the rust. The cost was $160.

[Wilson_]

if your dad wants it stock why use bondo, I don't believe they used bondo at the factory. you said you had all of the patch panels, so why are you using the bondo?

good luck with the project

check out the paint and body section on here for tips on metal work, rust removal and paint

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...splay.php?f=16

And use the FAQ

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...splay.php?f=28

[cedorris]

Originally Posted by Wilson_

if your dad wants it stock why use bondo, I don't believe they used bondo at the factory.

Ouch.

[cerjio]

Just wanted to add my .02 worth , back in 77 I bought a 71 chevy pu. with the 307, 2bl three speed on the collum, I would race my friends ford pu, a few yrs newer with a 360 the only diffrence was who got off the line first I couldnt out run him or could he out run me, but one thing i could do that many couldnt including my best friends 73 mach 1 with 351 cl. with 4 spd an drag pack options was i could lite my tires up with out dumping the clutch , they all had to rev up there motors an dump the clutch, I won a few stop light drags because of that ,

[skyreep1]

Thats awesome about the racing man. good to have someone say something good about less than a 350.

I have the patch panels for the rusted out areas and where there's pinholes im deffinetly not using bodo as i dont want a blow out BUT on the side of the bed for instance there is surface rust that im taking down to bare metal, in order to prevent it from looking sunken in I thought I had to use a thin layer of bondo to beef it back up to the same thickness as the surrounding metal. Is there a different way?

I dont wanna half to cut out and patch 1/4 of the bed because of suface rust and I dont think high build primer would do the trick.

So glass based media for blasting body panels, frame, etc?

[bigdon-70blazer]

Originally Posted by msgross

RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH young Jedi...


start looking at painting websites, our paint section, google etc...

using sand is dangerous to your health without proper equipment, soda leaves residue that can haunt you later, I used black beauty coal slag on my frame, I WILL NEVER DO IT AGAIN! messy, time consuming, and not worth my time.

LISTEN, LISTEN, LISTEN... you have asked so many questions and gotten great advise from these guys who DO THIS STUFF IN THEIR SLEEP! They are that good! You will get no better advise. Put in a dose of reality and you may be OK.