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#76 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
and more
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#77 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
some with the CPP 2" Drop Spindles: Before powder coated
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#78 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
and after powder coated
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#79 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Moved the battery tray to under the cab
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#80 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Rims and Tires
The rims are gloss black on the lip and then flat black on the inside spokes. 9.5" in rear and 8" up front |
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#81 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Rebuilt Rearend with 3:42 Posi gears should be good with muncie 4-speed
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#82 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
more to come soon
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#83 |
60-66 Nut
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,247
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Looking really good!
__________________
Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE |
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#84 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Thank you, from you that means alot!
I know you have heard this a thousand times, but damn sir your stuff is just unreal, works perfect, looks fantastic, thank you. Oh damn, i need to get a pic of the power steering box mounted with your mount, i will get that done. |
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#85 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Upper Left USA
Posts: 83
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
I've heard nothing but good things about EZ Airride, pretty sure when I convert mine to air I'll be using his kit. Loving the progress, it looks immaculate. Also, I'm digging the flat black/gloss combo on the wheels!
![]() Last edited by 0ldSoul; 04-08-2020 at 08:42 PM. |
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#86 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
Yea, Steve with EZ Air Ride is awesome. He will honestly tell you what you need, he will not over sell something, and he is always there if you need, questions and such. The rims, it was interesting because i nor the guy selling them really knew that this was how they are, and now he is looking at a set for this car. They really are a cool look, not cheap but not expensive really either. |
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#87 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok all, I am stuck and frustrated.
Here is my issue. I have CPP 2.5 drop spindles, CaptainFab's power steering conversion with new power steering box installed, new pitman arm installed and a 1966 C10 non power steering center link. I have a full front end rebuild kit, i mean everything from new ball joints, to bushings and such for the stock upper and lower arms, and so on. I am not sure what year or years the kit is from and no i cannot find where i bought the kit from, but anyways the parts all put together will not work. The center link is hitting the frame. So, here is where i am. I will buy a new kit, whatever i need, i just do not know what works. As you can tell i am not good at front ends, i am learning. So, any help here is greatly appreciated!! Thanks |
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#88 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
ok, so i went out and took another look and here is what i found. If i move the idler arm forward about 1.5" everything seems to line up. Please correct me if i am wrong, but will this work?
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#89 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,964
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Verify you don't have the center link flipped. It's a common mistake.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#90 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
Otherwise, what do you think? |
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#91 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,964
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Did you drill the 2nd set of Idler bracket holes or were they already in the frame?
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#92 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
One hole exits, other did not, yet.
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#93 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,964
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ahh.... Your statement confused me but then I looked @ your reference pic again & noticed only 1 bolt securing the Idler bracket.
That is weird. The holes are placed to keep the steering pivot points parallel. I've never looked into Captainfabs power steering adapter set-up to know specifics but I'm assuming it doesn't alter anything so the Idler position shouldn't change. Something doesn't seem right w/that so keep scrutinizing the parts compatibility. I'm wondering if you need a later center-link? When I did my early drum-to-disc brake swaps in the 90's I swapped to 71-72 center-links to keep the tie-rods consistent. I never investigated if the center-links were physically different beyond that.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#94 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
i am waiting for a response from CaptainFab on what kit or parts he suggest to use.
I did find that POL has a specific Pitarm arm made for the power steering conversion. It may be shorter than the standard 1970 pitarm i have, but that still may cause issues with how and where the idler arm is mounted, this i am not sure of, so i get whatever CaptainFab suggests. |
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#95 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,964
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
Manual to power steering swaps require different pitman arms from the factory. I would find out if their Pitman arm is different beyond that.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#96 |
60-66 Nut
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,247
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
With the steering box located using the included template, the stock draglink should not be touching the crossmember with the idler arm in it's original location. Do you have the pitman arm on all the way? And the pitman arm is something special from POL?
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Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE |
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#97 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
To be honest, i have not tightened it (Pitman) all the way. I think i know where you are going with the this. If it is all the tight, it will raise the bar height, getting it above the flat part of the crossmember and closer to the notched, angled back part. I will try that immediately today. i will owe you and Scotti a big apology if that is all it is. I also sent you a PM on your question. The front end CCP lowering kit is from CPP, it is for drop spindle disc conversion for 1963 - 1970 C10. The full front end rebuild kit is for 1965-1966 Chevy C10. Now my only issue may be the tie rods ends that go into the spindle may not be the right size, but they seem to fit good. Thoughts? Thanks again to all of you for your help!!! |
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#98 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Well damn! I got that damn Pitman arm about 1/2 way, using an air racket even! Arm still Hits! So, with all that said, mu frustration level at a high, I found that POL sells a direct bolt on Rack & Pinion system that works with airbags and lowered trucks. No frame alterations required, so..... i am thinking i will go that route. Also less parts on the front suspension and it costs $886.00, i think i may just order this and call it all good. I will have a bunch of extra parts for sale for sure.
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#99 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,644
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Ok, so i pulled the trigger and bought the No Modification Required bolt in Powered Rack & Pinion from POL. its like, if i am going to do this, go all out, to some extent.
Also, i bought an aluminium finned differential cover from Jegs. Well, when i put the rear all the up into the c-notch the track arm hits the cover, bad. So, i am thinking that i will just need to stick with stock. Sucks because i really like it, but oh well. I may see if i could grind off part of the fins, but i just hate doing this kind of thing. If it does not work the way it was maid, maybe that is a sign to just go with stock. |
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#100 |
60-66 Nut
![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,247
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Do those CPP tubular control arms move the spindle rearward even just a little? That would cause the interference. Is the pitman arm you got from POL an exact OEM replacement? Those aftermarket aluminum differential covers require a panhard bar with a jog in it. Someone makes one, I just don't remember who.
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Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE |
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