1964 C10 fleet side swb

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Very nice, good to know about the weather stripping....

Credit for that goes to member: Rob Fisher

Found his post from 2014 and I also tested the Accord weather stripping. b/c it was had the black vinyl trim instead of the grey.

[Justin71105]

Well decided to pull engine harness off and route through the firewall with the ecm in the cab. Plan is mount ECM either on the cover for my kick panel holes and the body harness/fuse-box in a stockish location or vice versa.

Worst part was getting the seal put in the firewall, if I had thought ahead I could have it extended maybe 4 more foot and mounted ecm under my seat.

Ordered me a cool intake cover as well.

[Justin71105]

Got my drive shaft ordered yesterday, should have it by next week.

This weekend I think I will try to get my brake pedal finished and get the dbw gas pedal cut/bent/installed.

The picture is from a website that sales the adapter bracket, they no longer sale the one for my pedal so I will attempt to make re-make my pedal. The pic is a my body style with the same pedal I have though...

I will heat and straighten the arm, going to get some steel plate to mount pedal to and bolt that to the firewall. Going to decide where to mount it to put it beside the brake pedal how I feel most comfortable and then cut and shorten the arm so the pedal sits in-line with the brake.

If I can finish this Fri/Sat then I will work on mounting my ecm and body harness fuse box Sun.

[SCOTI]

So you're going to mount the base first, then section & tweak the pedal 'arm' so the pedal is aligned where you want it w/the brake/clutch pedals?

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

So you're going to mount the base first, then section & tweak the pedal 'arm' so the pedal is aligned where you want it w/the brake/clutch pedals?

Yes, although I no longer have a clutch pedal. Probably have to cut arm off and not only shorten it but angle it as well. Little cutting/welding and hopefully end up with it lookimg good and being functional.

[Justin71105]

Got my brake pedal mounted yesterday, just need to drill another hole for a second bolt in stock brake arm.

I used my stock brake arm and mounting cylinder, cut the pedal off and welded on a 1996 C1500 pedal for an Auto.

Then cut up the 96 pedal and used the section that mounts to the booster rod and bolted it to my brake arm.

Going to move gas bracket over toward passenger side as far as I can with still keeping it on the flat section of firewall. Then cut arm down so it is in-line with the brake pedal and in line with me sitting in seat.

It can move maybe another half inch towards passenger side from how I have it in pics. Rod was not connected in the pics with both brake and gas pedal, it does not travel quite that far with the booster connected.

[bigmoe]

That adjustable gas pedal will give you a little adjustment for fitment, especially after you get carpet under it, or you can remove the adjustment section and mount something solid there once you know where it has to be.

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

So like the picture:


Looks like 4.3 degrees down, I can lift it a little would like it around 4 degrees or maybe even 3.8. May need to massage the trans tunnel for some more clearance though. My rear is 1.8 degrees up and I could get 2 degree shims and get them perfectly opposite or within 0.2 at least.

You might want to consider a high hump tunnel. It will give you a bit more room to raise the trans, plus if you mount a cable operated floor shifter it will sit higher.

[Justin71105]

Well had to re-do the brake rod, that piece was pivoting after the brakes pressed maybe 1/2" and then not doing anything.


New brake pics below, had to weld a few nuts togethor for a coupler but works like it should. The nut in the picture is coupling the all thread, made a 1" one that works good. Need to drill out brake arm for a 1/2" bolt not and im in business.

Got my new intake cover painted as well.

[Justin71105]

Well the new brake rod lasted a few pumps after bleeding and that 5/16 rod bent at the round section that goes over the stud in arm. So I went back and cut the 5/16 rod off and went with 3/8 rod with a spacer between the adjustable coupler and the round section.

Pumped on these very hard with lines closed and no bending or movement at all.

I pressed out the stud for the loop on the booster rod and pressed it in my stock pedal. So using it with a spacer instead of brake switch on those models and a dorman clip to hold it all on.

I got a template of 16 ga steel plate made for the gas pedal to mount on outside of firewall. Plan is once I get pedal exactly where I want it to weld nuts on this and weld the plate to the firewall so it cant move if I need to take pedal out.

Save that for another day, its cold and after 2.5 days of jacking with this brake pedal I am beat.

Drive shaft is finished and I will pick it up Wed and try to get gas pedal mounted.

Get shims installed in rear and measure rear end angle and raise transmission to match, and then I will install drive shaft and measure that angle to get my operating angles and see if I will need to get a high humps trans cover....hoping I will not need to do this.

[Justin71105]

Radiator fan came in today, decided on a Ford Taurus fan with the built in shroud.

Mounted ecm in truck, decided on mounting ecm where fuse box normally goes and make a spot for the harness fuse box and body fuse box.

Will get the two fuse boxes mounted this weekend but the ecm is in and I like it.

Using one existing bolt hole for ecm at the column, used a longer bolt and can mount the cover with a nut in the engine bay.

[SCOTI]

What diameter is the fan?

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What diameter is the fan?

Fan is almost 19"

Overall size is 22x19.5 not including the ears you mount with. It is 2400 cfm on lo and 2900 on high.

Found the idea on these forums to use the Ford Taurus fan, think its 91-94 or T birds, Volvo 740's all use this fan. Got mine on amazon, its a dorman 620-118, not bad for $80 shipped, then another $30ish for the pigtail and relays.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Fan is almost 19"

Overall size is 22x19.5 not including the ears you mount with. It is 2400 cfm on lo and 2900 on high.

Found the idea on these forums to use the Ford Taurus fan, think its 91-94 or T birds, Volvo 740's all use this fan. Got mine on amazon, its a dorman 620-118, not bad for $80 shipped, then another $30ish for the pigtail and relays.

I've read about them. The 'go-to' predecessor of the Lincoln Mark VIII set-up.

[Justin71105]

Got my cover for the driver side air vent bolted in and fuse boxes mounted. Going to remove it and cover hole with sound deadened tomorrow and run the wiring for the body harness to front/rear of truck.

[Justin71105]

Got my radiator in but they just sent a stock unit instead of the re-worked on I ordered. So used this one to check all my clearances for intake/fan while I wait in the right one. Everything is pretty tight but I am going to make 2 brackets to hold intake in place and 2 or maybe 4 for the radiator fan/shroud to attach to core support.

Also got my front/rear body harness wire ran to front/back.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Well the new brake rod lasted a few pumps after bleeding and that 5/16 rod bent at the round section that goes over the stud in arm. So I went back and cut the 5/16 rod off and went with 3/8 rod with a spacer between the adjustable coupler and the round section.

Pumped on these very hard with lines closed and no bending or movement at all.

I pressed out the stud for the loop on the booster rod and pressed it in my stock pedal. So using it with a spacer instead of brake switch on those models and a dorman clip to hold it all on.

I got a template of 16 ga steel plate made for the gas pedal to mount on outside of firewall. Plan is once I get pedal exactly where I want it to weld nuts on this and weld the plate to the firewall so it cant move if I need to take pedal out.

Save that for another day, its cold and after 2.5 days of jacking with this brake pedal I am beat.
.

I would set-up the under dash brake pieces to be a 2-part 'modular' installation: parts contained under the dash connected to parts retained outside the firewall.

This allows for easy replacement of the brake booster for future service vs having to revisit fab work to make the set-up work. Is this how you ended up?

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I would set-up the under dash brake pieces to be a 2-part 'modular' installation: parts contained under the dash connected to parts retained outside the firewall.

This allows for easy replacement of the brake booster for future service vs having to revisit fab work to make the set-up work. Is this how you ended up?

Yea to make a new booster work all I would need to do is cut off the ring, place the nub into the coupler end and then just adjust the coupler on the pedal side to make a tighter fit on the booster rod and tighten down my lock nuts.

Hard to make it work using the ring on the booster, it became a pivot point and would not let me push rod in straight.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Yea to make a new booster work all I would need to do is cut off the ring, place the nub into the coupler end and then just adjust the coupler on the pedal side to make a tighter fit on the booster rod and tighten down my lock nuts.

Hard to make it work using the ring on the booster, it became a pivot point and would not let me push rod in straight.

What is the booster spec'd for?

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

What is the booster spec'd for?

88-98 C1500 using Cpt Fabs bracket, the rod is too short to meet up with pedal like it needs to.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

88-98 C1500 using Cpt Fabs bracket, the rod is too short to meet up with pedal like it needs to.

Gotcha. Just curious to know what booster to avoid (because of the ring issue).

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Gotcha. Just curious to know what booster to avoid (because of the ring issue).

If I ever have to change my booster I'm going to take that bracket off put it against the firewall and see if that gives me the right length. I think the bracket is what is giving me the space between the ring and the brake pedal.

Would just need to drill holes in the firewall and mount directly to it but now that I've already done brake lines and all the other stuff I'm not jacking with it any more.

[Captainfab]

All factory vacuum booster must have the eyelet cut off and the pushrod lengthened in a rigid fashon to reach the brake pedal. You simply can not have 2 pivot points. Aftermarket universal booster come with a threaded pushrod. One of the main purposes of my booster brackets is to give a good solid connection with the booster/master assembly directly to the pedal bracket on the inside. This is very important from a safety perspective.

Originally Posted by Justin71105

88-98 C1500 using Cpt Fabs bracket, the rod is too short to meet up with pedal like it needs to.

Originally Posted by Justin71105

If I ever have to change my booster I'm going to take that bracket off put it against the firewall and see if that gives me the right length. I think the bracket is what is giving me the space between the ring and the brake pedal.

Would just need to drill holes in the firewall and mount directly to it but now that I've already done brake lines and all the other stuff I'm not jacking with it any more.

[Justin71105]

After almost 3 months I finally have the correct radiator. Ordered it in Jan and they sent a stock one, finally got the correct one avout a week ago.

Drove 12 hrs to pick my brother a 57' 3100 up that my dad had just acquired and re-sold to him. If he don't hold on to it I may try to buy it off him later on.

Don't care for the grinder job on the paint but its completely solid with no rust holes through at all. It has a Chevrolet Performance 330hp crate mated to a th350, power steering, power brakes, a/c and run and drives really well. Going to have to do a king pin kit on it before he drives it on the road any, drivers side got some slop. Everything else seems to be good on it, my dad did a tune up on it with new plugs/wires/carb. Its a really nice other driver other than the slop from the king pins needing to be replaced. Supposed to have a Chevrolet performance crate engine, the 330hp version with a built th350 and posi rear end. It will brake loose from a roll if you put the pedal down hard, the cam sounds really good on that motor. Starting to make me want a cam in my 5.3 lol.

[Justin71105]

It's alive...


https://youtube.com/shorts/RecFg3g48Bw?feature=share



I have 2 codes to work out one for cam sensor, cleaned old one but havent tried to start truck again. And one for pedal sensor 2, do no have 5 volts on pin d. All wiring checks out so believe it to be tac module. Happy it started up and it idles down like its supposed to and seems to have no real issues.

Little lifter tick on first start but this video is the next day after ilding maybe 5 mins total the night before and lifter tick is gone.