Rattle can paint job

[irving216]

i definatly got drunk and rattle caned my cab with flat black engine paint, other then a few drips here and there it looks pretty damned good. surprisingly, i didnt sand or ntohing and for me not preping it at all, it holds up pretty good.

[motornut]

da list:
Paint
thinner
beer
brush and small roller
sand paper i'm using 320
masking tape,maybe paper too
beer
rags
if the paint job starts to suck just add more beer!

[muthstryker]

Originally Posted by 1tonchevy

So i'm going to try this roll on paint job here maby next weekend. if i can find the paint in safty orange and the mineral spirits.

where can i find this stuff and what all do i need? like a complete list sand paper (whats grits) etc and help would be great and in turn i will document the whole thing from start to finish

If you really want the rolled paint to come out good you need to read this and follow his steps carefully...

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40341

Also, I would recommend using a new roller after each coat of paint. You can buy them in bulk on ebay, I think you can get like 36 foam rollers for $10. Get some spray paint for the door jambs if you really want to go all out..

[muthstryker]

Going to be spray bombing my 67 Cutlass that I just bought within a week or so will post up pictures after im done with it..

[Edgel82c10]

Rust-Oleum Flat Black Primer

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[motornut]

it looks good but
duno bout 50/50 might be runny on the sides

[muthstryker]

It wont run as long as you put it on really light and keep the roller moving. Actually stays on pretty well..

[DetroitDan]

50/50 is way too thin. will run too much, and take forever to harden I'd think. I've read a lot about this and I've done it a couple times, 80/20 seems to be about where most people have the most success. The Meguiers link was good but the guy did about 100 times too much work. Absolutely no need to remove all the old paint, or to prime it. The whole point of the exercise is to save a lot of money and do it yourself. The more steps yo uadd and the more you have to buy to perform those steps, the more you get closer to the cost of a spray job.
I've seen plenty come out just as good as the Meguiers hood in that forum.

As to the grit mentioned above, I've been using 400 on the first pair of coats, then 800 them 1500 on the last coat, before buffing. 320s pretty rough and you're removing a lot of material you dont need to.

BTW, go look at a factory paint job up close. You may be surprised at how poor it actually is, so keep that in mind when doing your roller job. You dont have to be absolutely perfect (unless you want to) for it to look as good as or better than a factory finish. Step back and look at it from 10 or 20 feet away. That's what people are going to see, and that's what is important.

[muthstryker]

If your going to take the time to roll the paint on, wetsand inbetween each coat and buff it in the end, why not take the extra time to sand out a few deep scratches on the old paint job? If your not doing that, it kind of defeats the purpose of even taking the time to wet sand and buff. Factory paint jobs might be bad but they dont have noticeable scratches and cracks in their paint.

The amount of time it takes to do this roller paint job might as well add another day and take care of the body work so it doesnt look as bad.

[DetroitDan]

I didnt mean not to do necessary body work or fix things that will show through, but he was talking about grinding the car down to bare metal with 80 grit and a machine. Six thin coats of rustoleum will cover a lot, and fill in scratches. And you only wetsand every other coat, not every coat.

[DetroitDan]

Originally Posted by muthstryker

If your going to take the time to roll the paint on, wetsand inbetween each coat

if you wetsand between each coat you'll never be done, because you'll never get any paint on the truck. I just wetsanded mine with 800, pretty easy on it too, and I could see through the paint in places.

So, wetsanded the other day and threw two quick coats on today. Figured out that painting a black truck with black paint in direct sunlight is not ideal. shady side went easier. Paint was mostly set up and hard after a couple hours so I went ahead and put more on without waiting the full 8 hours. Going to try to do another coat tomorrow before I wetsand again. Hopefully that will be enough to let me start buffing. If not I need to do another two whole coats., then wetsand and buff.

For whoever was asking about quantity used, I started today with a fresh quart, used it all up. I did two coats on the bedsides, all four doors, front fenders and the hood. I did not do the roof because it was burning hot up there and I would have burned myself trying to reach all of it, and who knows how it would have come out. I also don't have the tailgate on yet so no paint there, but that won't take much because half of it's covered up by chrome and aluminum. I'll probably use 3 quarts total, maybe into a fourth. I wouldn't buy a gallon, I'd go quart by quart. That way you don't have a gallon open and getting sticky over time.

[muthstryker]

Ya I didnt mean to type "in between every coat", Meant every other coat. I did this process on my GTO trunk lid a few years back, it came out great. I would do this on my 67 Cutlass, But I have carpal tunnel in both wrists and all that wetsanding would make me cry.

[DetroitDan]

ok, my bad, didnt get your meaning. heres a couple cellphone pics with the doors done and the fender not done

[cayoterun]

Here's where I used some Ace Rust Stop paint yesterday. Cost #29.00 per gallon.
I used it for several years, and have had it last 3-4 years if I keep it in the can closed tight.
I light sanded the surface rust, primed it, light sanded it, then painted.
Pic not very good, and don't show color "Appliance Almond" very well. The rest of the cab and interior will be same color trimmed in black. Plan to leave paint as is/w no sanding. On this truck, if it gets some chalk with time, it's ok.

Used rattle cans on dash and glove box.

Used paint gun on firewall. Mixed 25% paint thinner in for gun.

Cayoterun

[MadManAndrew]

Originally Posted by Edgel82c10

Rust-Oleum Flat Black Primer

[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

If I ever get me a crew cab, I think I'm gonna paint it like that and tint the windows real dark. One of those trucks that kinda gives you the chills, haha.
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[motornut]

Made the choice went Fire Red Tremclad
roller and brush

[Cherub]

are yall cutting the paint to make it lay flat?

[motornut]

not me
doing the hood @ high noon ,the roller was almost stuck at the end
reading it i wondered if the rust protection would be less if cut/thinned out
I'm putting about three or four coats with a little scuffing/sanding (to knock off the bugs lol)then maybe i'll try a thinner coat
worked uncut without many runs or lines before for me.
but i'm wondering about a top coat thinned out,might come out nicer

[DetroitDan]

works real good cut about 20%. Lays out smoother. Rust enamel is already formulated to lay out some, thinner only helps. The thinner evaporates out of it as it dries, so I dont see it having any harmful effects on rust protection power of the paint.

Blazer looks good, motornut. must be some thick if it's all red already and not see-thru. But that's okay, make a good basecoat imo. Knock it down with some wetsanding, 800 with a block works for me. Then I'd thin it for a more laid-out topcoat, less work for you to sand and buff in the end.

[cayoterun]

I built this box in '04, I think, using new galvanized tin. It won't hardly hold paint unless it's weather cured for couple of years. I painted it new with rust stop with a spray gun. I mixed in 25% paint thinner, and sprayed it after acidizing the tin. It held real well, but has started peeling the last year or so, but the trailer has been parked out in the weather all the time.

I plan to paint the '46 Chevy pu the same color, trimmed in black.

For this kind of use, I like the Rust-stop or Rustoleum either one.

Easy to work with, clean up, and don't have all the wild chemicals that automotive paint, plus much cheaper.
Cayoterun

[motornut]

Originally Posted by DetroitDan

works real good cut about 20%. Lays out smoother. Rust enamel is already formulated to lay out some, thinner only helps. The thinner evaporates out of it as it dries, so I dont see it having any harmful effects on rust protection power of the paint.

Blazer looks good, motornut. must be some thick if it's all red already and not see-thru. But that's okay, make a good basecoat imo. Knock it down with some wetsanding, 800 with a block works for me. Then I'd thin it for a more laid-out topcoat, less work for you to sand and buff in the end.

no it's still seethrough....almost burnt orange
gona need some more paint......least 3 coats to kill the blue
ran outa rum,i mean carb cleaner......goo remover for the stickers
got some 3m scuff pads,320/220 grit used while testing spray paint
i think i started with 180 grit

[motornut]

Done red before but not thinned out either but
i think the removable roof will be the only white this time lol
but the white cav next to the truck.......offered her a deal on racing stripes red of course lol
wait till she see's the racing stripes made from "red duct tape" in the am LMAO.......gona tell her i spilt some and "fixed" it -no charge-

[motornut]

finished second coat late last night
dew might have screwed the finish? any ideas?
I might even wonder if i went too thick dumping the end of the cup on the hood but the rear panel is dull too.....places were dew might settle?

[DetroitDan]

did you end up roller painting or rattle can spraying? I've had dew mess up a drying coat overnite a couple times. Can either just throw another coat over it or lightly wetsand it. Doesnt make a difference as long as you plan on wetsanding and buffing it out. If you're trying to achieve a decent finish without wetsanding and buffing, you'll just have to keep painting and hoping. Just make sure you've got plenty of paint on it, because both the wetsanding and buffing takes it back off.
Looking good! It's definitely a red Blazer now.

[motornut]

Roller n brush
i figure it is the dew
i use the plastic beer cups to scoop from the gallon and pour to another
figured i'd use up the rest in the cup
problem was I started late and was finishing after dark......so thats a no no!
gona sand some red tommorrow,got the gate still blue
1 maybe 2 more coats before i thin it and try to smooth it