Super Duper Haggis Hauler II - The Resurrection

[MacQuigley]

Truth be told Ian I don't like that seat but the pair were free so I thought Id have a look and see what I thought.

I don't mind buckets but they have to be the right type and that one aint the right type.

I wish I had an original bench seat but I don't and I cant get one.

C3 pictures coming soon - ish!

[ibrown50]

Keep an eye on Rods n Sods stuff for sale or the NSRA forum they show up more often than you might imagine. There’s one on there at the moment but the colours would work for you

[MacQuigley]

Colour isn't an issue. I'll be getting it recovered. Is it on Rod n Sods or NSRA?

[Grizz1963]

Hi Bill,

Contact Weldtech on R&S he has a C10that is going to be crazy once completed.

I would be very surprised if he kept the bench from that, if he still has it.

His build here.

http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/gar...12-15-a-315762

Look at his welding too, pure porn.

The whole build is pretty impressive to be honest.

[MacQuigley]

Ive found a Daimler bench seat that I think will do nicely. Just need to measure up tonight.

And your right that is some welding! Need to go through the whole thread.

[ibrown50]

Bill, it's on both, here's the link to the advert

http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/stu...nt-sale-538209

[MacQuigley]

Cheers Ian. Now if its out a 55 am I not correct to say it will be a bit narrow for a C10? Got a mate measuring up his 56 so hopefully I will know soon.

I have the chance of this which is maybe 1" too long but I figure its easier to chop than stretch.

[MacQuigley]

So I made a start or rather re start this evening. Started where I left off back in September filling round the inside of the door. I regret trying to blend in the lip of the door skin now but as Magnus Magnuson used to say "Ive started so I'll (need to) finish"!

[MacQuigley]

That 55 bench seat is gone anyway. Shame. Mate just came back to me and it would have done. Think I'll go with the Daimler one.

[MacQuigley]

Bought this for the truck.



Its out a Daimler. It may be slightly big, like 1/2" but that's all. It was only £80 so nothing much lost if it turns out to be useless.

[MacQuigley]

The C3 is going off to paint next weekend which meant I had to get the doors off yesterday as the bottoms need a little work. Id been resisting taking them off too early because the local wild life will end up using i as a public toilet. But they are off now so the last work (other than refitting the interior) is now done.

So it was back to the C10 over the weekend and I really glad to be back working on it again even if I am still breaking away to do other things for the next few months.

As I said last week the last thing I was doing before my C3 enforced halt was the passenger side door. So this weekend I filled a few low points then put a coat of etch primer, epoxy and then high build primer on the inside surfaces. It still needs a little work but its almost there now (photo to come).

One goal over the summer is to get the 454 ready to fire up. I don't like it just sitting there getting damp and potentially seizing up, so I want to be able to fire it up every few weeks. Before I can do that I need all the electrics and plumbing done, so I made a start on that and got the E-Z wiring harness fitted.

Fuse box is mounted under the dash and Ive started to route the cables.



Now I'm not looking to completely hide every cable, that's just too much work and frankly I'm not sure I really like that look, but I do want to keep it all as tidy as possible. I thought Id just route the cables through the hole next to the clutch master cylinder but I don't really like that, so I may have to get a little creative and use the 2 holes in the transmission area. Out of interest how have others routed their cables?

[Captainfab]

The hole next to the clutch master is where most of the factory wiring passes thru the firewall. Of course there would be a molded plug there.

[MacQuigley]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The hole next to the clutch master is where most of the factory wiring passes thru the firewall. Of course there would be a molded plug there.

That's what I thought and looking back at the photos I took as I disassembled the C10 there are some cables coming through that hole but also other cables coming through other holes.

There was no molded plug unfortunately, only a but of a grommet and some sleeving round the cable to protect it.

[ibrown50]

Looking good Bill. I’m not planning to do a full rewire on my truck but agree the factory wiring is not the best looking thing in the engine bay. I had planned to use some of that corrugated plastic trunking stuff, the kind that’s split along its length and then clip it up nice and tidy.

[MacQuigley]

The wiring in mine was so bad Ian that it made sense to replace it end to end. I was going to make it up myself but for $185 it seemed to make sense to buy a complete loom. That said, I may have made a mistake by spending the extra $15 and getting the larger 21 circuit loom as it may prove harder to remove or hid the circuits I don't need than I thought. I thought it best to get the larger one as I wasn't 100% sure what I was going to fit electrical wise (I'm still not). Of course I could just cut them but I don't want to do that because I know I will end up wanting other "toys" in the future.

[MacQuigley]

This is a question to anyone who has fitted replacement bed supports. The new supports come with what I'll call spacers but the new spacers are considerably shorter than the originals meaning the bed supports are considerably lower than the originals, so low in fact that the bed almost rests on the frame and there is no space to fit the shorter bed support in the centre.

Anyone goy a suggestion on the best way to proceed? Do I fit the new spacers and delete the centre support or do I refit the old spacers?

[ibrown50]

I've noticed that I have the same problem with the cross sills I got from LMC, they came with a loose bracket that are way too shallow.

You can't use the new low spacers (atleast as they are) because the wood for the bed also sits on the rear cross sill and you can't alter the height of that. I was going to remove the brackets from the old cross sills and weld them on to the new ones.

You could use the new brackets but you'd have to modify them. The fold on mine are about 45 degress if you bent them nearer to 90 degrees that would increase the height, but if your old ones are salvageable I'd use them.

[MacQuigley]

I fit the bed sides etc earlier today and your absolutely right Ian you cant use those spacers. The question is why the hell do they supply them? what possible use can they be.

Fortunately the short bed supports are the same profile as the original supports and I have a new spare (I ordered for a long bed rather than a short) so I can cut that up if necessary.

Oh and another thing about the repo parts when you tighten the bed support down the spacers buckle under the slightest pressure! Crap!

[MacQuigley]

Im jumping about a fair bit at the moment i will confess but I decided to fit the new cab sides etc as mentioned yesterday.

As usual some parts dont fit. I had to modify the tailgate catches a bit but they fit nicely now. Some of the side fixing holes are out and will need to be re-positioned, not a big issue but something else that shouldnt happen. The front panel seems to be "running" right to left when looking at the cab back, not quite sure why yet. The bed supports need the correct spacers as discussed yesterday.

Most importantly and the main reason for fitting all this is in the wheel arches. I was worried the tires would rub and guess what they do!

Lifting the bed by the height of the spacers will help and I can roll the inner edge of the fenders quite a bit so Im hopeful they will fit with a little work. I can always space out the fenders or chop the axle!!!!!!!!!

BTW im struggling to attach pictures at the moment, dont know why but the system wont let me. When I figure it out I will post some.

[MacQuigley]

Struggling to get photos attached so I'm only attaching the latest - if I can!


New spacer that came with new bed support. As much use as a chocolate fireguard!


The original spacer


Bit of a clearance issue with the wing




Starting to look like a truck again - well almost!

[MacQuigley]

Drivers side much the same

[MacQuigley]

So this weekend I raised the bed by using the old spacers



That gained a little space


But pulling the bed sides together by making the tailgate catch smaller is also helping as it brings the bed side in rotating the wing up and out. I may need to modify both and then still roll in the inner lip of the wing a bit.


Also I may gain 1/2" or so when I fit the bed, though as my son pointed out the weight of the wood may lower the bed again.

Also not sure why the bed isn't sitting square with the cab, or is it the cab that's not sitting square with the bed? May need to live with this!

[MacQuigley]

Also got the passenger door in primer (inside at least)







You'd never tell it has been reskinned, now bottom fitted and that huge speaker hole filled. Very pleased with it but there is at least 100hrs in it, at least!

Just about got the outside ready.

[jchav62]

Great work!!!

[ibrown50]

I remember what the door looked like before you started with the speaker hole and everything, it turned out really well, cracking job