Daverods project 66

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Dave you got me thinking last night. You can also raise the front portion of the frame in front of the cab. Like you would do in the rear. It would raise your engine too, so you can't go too high. It would for sure get your 20s on and lay frame. You would also have to drop the front portion of the frame in front of the cross member to mount the sheet metal and bumper. Lots of work, and the cheapest way to go.
Watahyahknow's idea is good too, but looks like it would be expensive. Do you have a link to there web site?

You've just described a frame 'Z' where the frame stub is cut-off & re-attached higher vs. the original rails. If you've got more time/talent vs. money, it's worth doing. If your lacking either, Nathans Dropmember does the same thing & fixes many 'compromises' that people experience when notching a stock crossmember (and the extra work for the radiator core support when doing a 'Z').

I've done the crossmember notch but it doesn't give you much for the work. To combine a c.member notch + frame 'Z' is just extra work. Skip the c.member notch & raise the rails up more when doing the 'Z' (I realize the OP has already done the c.member notch).

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You've just described a frame 'Z' where the frame stub is cut-off & re-attached higher vs. the original rails. If you've got more time/talent vs. money, it's worth doing. If your lacking either, Nathans Dropmember does the same thing & fixes many 'compromises' that people experience when notching a stock crossmember (and the extra work for the radiator core support when doing a 'Z').

I've done the crossmember notch but it doesn't give you much for the work. To combine a c.member notch + frame 'Z' is just extra work. Skip the c.member notch & raise the rails up more when doing the 'Z' (I realize the OP has already done the c.member notch).

I know it's called "Z"ing the frame. Not everybody knows that term. I think Dave has the talent to do it. It's a lot of work, and scary to do.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Strodder

I know it's called "Z"ing the frame. Not everybody knows that term. I think Dave has the talent to do it. It's a lot of work, and scary to do.

I figured as much but wanted to insert the 'term' w/the description for those not familiar.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I figured as much but wanted to insert the 'term' w/the description for those not familiar.

You described it better

[jgh64pkup]

see dave i told you that you need to z the frame

[watahyahknow]

the Z ing makes for a lot of sheetmetal adaptations , another way would be to channel or floor the body over the frame wish keeps the frame stock but limits headroom in the cab.
channeling is just wat i says two sheetmetal channels made in the floor to drop the whole lot over the frame it does leave a big speedbump in the middle of the floor in the cab and the stock carpet whont fit no more
the space to the roof stays the same
the biggest challenge is to rethink the sheetmetal in front of the cab (innerfenders radiatorsupport and all that lot need to be shortened and mounted lower ) and making sure the stuff hanging from the bulkhead whont hit the engine and the top of the engine whont hit the hood .

flooring is basicly cutting the floor and most of the bulkhead and some of the rearwall of the cab trimming it the amount you want to go lower and reweld it in , this leaves the floor stock looking but with a step in the doorframe and less room inside the cab floor to roof
they do this a lot when they want to drag the body to bottom of the doors (they remove all sheetmetal below it )
you can still fit the stock carpet back in after some trimming , the rest of the sheetmetal lowering stays the same as with channeling the clearance problems too

the bed can be either floored too or lowered by shortening the mounts and cutting holes above the pumpkin and rearframe above the axle

in my eyes flooring looks the best but is the most work and the porterbuild dropmember is the easest safing a LOT of work to make the rest fit

on duallyscene.com they have a lot of pictures of these adaptations though they mostly use 77 and up trucks , there laying frame with 22 inch truckrims under there pickups

sorry stroddler missed you request there for a moment heres the link to the dropmember http://www.porterbuiltstreetrods.com hes building a new website tough

[Strodder]

There is so many ways to get this done. You just have to pick the one that you can do, or can afford.
Thanks for the link watahyahknow

[daverod]

Life is so simple. All I need is more money. Couple grand. I do like the drop member. Wonder what I have to do to keep my arms. Don't really want to buy arms and a member.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by daverod

Life is so simple. All I need is more money. Couple grand. Suck "I can fix that for ya for a couple grand". I do like the drop member. Wonder what I have to do to keep my arms. Don't really want to buy arms and a member.

You can re-use the stock arms w/the original DM. The later versions can use OE arms but they'll need to be from a 73-87.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

You can re-use the stock arms w/the original DM. The later versions can use OE arms but they'll need to be from a 73-87.

The arms I have now are off a 71. But I'm going to change the control arms and ball joints to the 73 type. Do they still sale the orginal DM?

[daverod]

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

see dave i told you that you need to z the frame

When ?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by daverod

The arms I have now are off a 71. But I'm going to change the control arms and ball joints to the 73 type. Do they still sale the orginal DM?

You could check w/Nathan on the V1 DM. I know they pop up 'used' from time to time as some have upgraded to his newer versions. If you're upgrading to 73-up arms/BJ's, the newer version (V3) will work for you.

[watahyahknow]

the cheapest way offcourse would be living with the fact it isnt laying frame ............or mount smaller rims

[jgh64pkup]

Post 1056

Originally Posted by daverod

When ?

[daverod]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

the cheapest way offcourse would be living with the fact it isnt laying frame ............or mount smaller rims

And I could use that money saved by not lying frame to buy some cool wheels and tires. bDo I really care if my frame is a couple inches high:? I'll lay frame in the back. The outside diameter of thew tires I have now is about 30" My spindle is at 12" so my frame will be about 3" in the air. If I use a tire like 265 35z r20 they are only 27" in diameter.

[ruffrida2005]

you know, even if you dont lay frame, I will be. haha

You could always body drop it to look like it is.

[watahyahknow]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...43#post3598643

dropmember installed on a 69

[daverod]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...43#post3598643

dropmember installed on a 69

They are nice.

[daverod]

[img]http://www.*****************/files/P-47-63-87-Raised-Crossmember-Kit.jpg[/img] They make it to easy. Does take all the headache away. Rack and pinion and your done. Then I could be like Ruff.

[61TWUK]

whose kit is that?

[daverod]

Originally Posted by 61TWUK

whose kit is that?

It was on http://www.*****************/front_page$ 1199. I think Porterbuilt makes one too. I can't get to his site though.

[watahyahknow]

it actually looks exactly like the porterbuild one

[daverod]

Took my fenders off my 64, ordered some bottom patches. Put my body on my frame. Sat in it went up and down.laid some frame.

[daverod]

Even my sled lays frame

[ruffrida2005]

That kit is based off of Nates kit, but it has a bunch of stuff done diffrent and better then Nates. Mostly less welded parts and better motor mounts.

You still couldn't be like me Dave I have the P-51 kit and that's the P-47