51 Chev on a S10 frame, named Dale

[joedoh]

looks good! did you have any trouble with the center strip? I can never get the factory screws back in

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

Hi Guys,

Installed new windshield glass yesterday.

I was pleased that there was no rust in the window channel, and the process is straight forward and went smoothly.

Looks awesome.....

[Tempest67]

Russ,

I could not get the middle bar back in without Mrs Tempest pushing the piece in while I was inside with the screw driver. I could get the bottom 3 started, but could not get the upper one. (as I need someone taller than 5'2" to push on the upper part of the chrome bar).

I was pleased how well everything went together.

Looks like 'Bickle' is coming along.

Ol Blue K20, Dale, thanks.... I am happy with the outcome. just a slight ripple of the seal on the top in the middle, but hopefully some adhesive and sunshine will fix that.

[Tempest67]

also, I bent in a part of the firewall to accommodate the passenger side valve cover, after thinking about the wiring for the motor, I drilled a hole and rerouted the wires through it. I think it will make for a cleaner engine compartment.

I also ran the hydraulic line to the clutch through this area.


.........making progress

[8man]

Good use of the space.

[joedoh]

thats a neat trick!

that bottom one is always the one I cant get with regular screws, the angle on the dash scratches the paint with the screwdriver. I think the company that makes those rubber tipped trigger handle project clamps should make one big enough to go from the front of the windshield bar to the back of the cab. that way you and I could do the job solo, just tighten the clamp and put the screws in.

what I have started doing is cutting the heads off long screws and threading them into the bar, then install the bar by sticking them through the rubber/post and using nuts on the inside. then I cut them short and use acorn nuts on top of the hex nuts.

[Tempest67]

acorn nuts are a great idea. (I think you have posted that before) I plan to use one of those upper screw holes to attach an interior mirror. (details not figured out yet)

The best tip I can pass along (from doing this only once) is when you have the entire piece (rubber seal and 2 pieces of glass) resting on the cowl ready to be installed, is to get 2 screw drivers and put them through the rubber center holes into the holes of the metal center divider, and leave them there while you pull the rope on the inside. (please keep mind out of gutter)

This will ensure that you have centered the windshields.


I did pry up the outer lip of the seal and applied sealant between the rubber and steel, but do you add any sealant between the glass and rubber?......not sure if that is necessary?

what a difference new glass makes...... seems like the truck just went from an abandoned old field truck to something that may actually be street legal.

[Tempest67]

completed fuel line to carb, and attached Power steering pump and lines.......

step by step......... progress is being made

[8man]

Progress!!! Keep at it.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

the name 'Dale Aitken' is carved into the side of the hood, so I figured I would name it Dale.

I found several old insurance slips and they are all in his name. (from the 60's and early 70's)

So, if Dale Aitken, from Grandview Manitoba is out there, your truck will ride again.

Haha, that's awesome. I love when the truck gods give you a sign something is right. In your case, literally a sign carved into the metal.

[gigamanx]

I was a fan of the painless wiring 70922 kit. Gives you a bunch of fabric sleeves to fit various wiring bundles like you have here. I used almost the whole kit for a 22 fuse universal harness.

[Tempest67]

I am using the 14 circuit set from Kwikwire. - no fabric sleeves

It seems fairly straight forward, but I haven't completed the 'motor group' yet.

I will be holding my breath when I connect the battery for the first time.

[Jason 56]

Coming along nice. Keep up the good work!

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks clean.

[Desert1957]

nice detail work.

[Tempest67]

more progress,

I fabbed these up to solve a problem that has been bugging me for a while.

I wanted something that would not hold moisture, would be strong enough to support some weight, and most important, reduce interior noise. (and they are removable if needed, but I dont see any need to remove them)

2 pieces of steel, with a styrofoam piece attached to it with contact cement, and plastic door edge guard on the 1 edge, with 3 holes to secure to the floor.

I oiled/greased the cavity before I installed them, and I think they will help.

[Tempest67]

Now, the Rad.

I purchased the rad from Summit, but for some reason, the lower rad outlet was angled in, toward the middle of the rad, so I found a guy that welds aluminium and he put on a straight outlet.

I sat the rad on 2 large round rubber supports, but needed to attach the top. So I made 3 brackets and attached them to the 3 pieces of split vacuum hose at the top of the rad. seems very secure.

Also, anyone using a SBC, these rad hoses worked well. The upper is a perfect fit ,for a 55 Chev with a V8 - Gates 20416 and the lower is the upper rad hose for a 1999 - 2003 F250 with the 7.3 diesel - Gates 22433. There is a slight 'fold' in the lower, but I think it will be ok

Also attached the 16 in SPAL fan and wired it up.

.........getting closer everyday

[Tempest67]

also installed the Lokar throttle cable and bracket.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

Now, the Rad.

I purchased the rad from Summit, but for some reason, the lower rad outlet was angled in, toward the middle of the rad, so I found a guy that welds aluminium and he put on a straight outlet.

I sat the rad on 2 large round rubber supports, but needed to attach the top. So I made 3 brackets and attached them to the 3 pieces of split vacuum hose at the top of the rad. seems very secure.

Also, anyone using a SBC, these rad hoses worked well. The upper is a perfect fit ,for a 55 Chev with a V8 - Gates 20416 and the lower is the upper rad hose for a 1999 - 2003 F250 with the 7.3 diesel - Gates 22433. There is a slight 'fold' in the lower, but I think it will be ok

Also attached the 16 in SPAL fan and wired it up.

.........getting closer everyday

Ran into this exact problem myself. Found an outfit that cut and brazed the lower hose so it was slightly angled outward towards the wheel well. Fit like a champ.

nice progress! I bet you're itching to start it up now that there are some fluids in there.

[joedoh]

very very clean work!

[8man]

Looking good. Like the cab corner fillers.

[Tempest67]

also added a rad overflow/expansion tank to inside of inner fender, because I could not find any space under the hood. The hose attaches to the bottom of the tank, so it will draw coolant when needed.

In the first pic you can see where the hose goes through the inner fender, the plug beside that, can be removed, and with a hose on a funnel, I can add to the reservoir. (in case you were wondering)

I would have preferred a black hose, but the clear came with the kit....... and I guess it is good to see the coolant moving.

[8man]

Where did you get the kit? It looks like it should work.

[Tempest67]

picked it up from Summit

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-54003


if this link doesn't work, it is a Dorman Coolant Reservoir 54003



It is a little awkward to get at, but I can reach into the wheel well and remove the lid if needed...... but I do think it is necessary.

[8man]

Thank you.