63-87 rack and pinion

[aggie91]

Thought I would post up some pic's of my install on Korbin's '82 C-10. We raised the crossmember up into the frame 1.5" and also used Porterbuilt's new Forward Arms (Lowers only at this point). Here are some pictures from this past weekend:



I still need to do the support bearing, but I am waiting on Rob to post up some pictures of the correct set up for a '73-'87 frame rail. I have a PS pump, hoses, and cooler from a 2000 GMC that we are going to use in the final installation. Enjoy!

[aggie91]

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[aggie91]

Rob

I got your rack and started the install. I have an issue with one of the adapters for the rod ends. One will only thread on about a 1/4 inch onto the rack end. The jam nut goes all the way on fine. I think the internal threads on the adapter are messed up. What is the thread type so I can get a tap and chase the threads?
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[robnolimit]

With a raised crossmember, you need to raise the idler bearing also. I would set the cab on, install the column, and then lay out the steering shaft.

[aggie91]

Thanks, Rob. I got the adapter yesterday. Tried in on the Passenger side this morning and it fits fine. I need to check the Driver side since that is the side we had issues with. I will do that this afternoon on the way home from work.

I have a bearing like you showed above, once the cab floor is done and under side is painted, we will put it on and set up the rest of the steering system.

Thanks again!

[aggie91]

I finally got the time in the shop to put the new adapter on and get that steering bolted together, just need to mount the cab to finish it off...

With the rod ends and adapters all together and both threaded all the way in, I have a bunch of toe out. What should I do to be able to adjust this down for a range between toe out and toe in? Should I cut a little off the rack ends? How much?

[Custom 68]

Karl, did you ever get this resolved?

[aggie91]

I got all the parts together and fit to the chassis. I have not heard from Rob on what I should do to fit the extreme toe out issue. I say extreme since it is about 1/4"-3/8" toed out with the adjustments all the way in...

[mooseknuckles]

I've heard that there is some clearance issues with the tie rod ends and the posi links when using a Ride Tech Musclebar?.....looks like there is lots of room for the steering shaft with the LS with headers?...thats good news...

[robnolimit]

Karl, I will check on an OD rack measurement for you on thursday.

[aggie91]

Rob

Did you happen to get the measurement of the overall rack width? I appreciate all your help with this project.

Happy New Year!

[Custom 68]

good luck. I still want one of these but I hope you get all yours worked out.

[aggie91]

Rob

here are some pictures of my install I am trying to do. It looks like I can get a single shaft from the column to the Ujoint on the rack without needing the third joint and support bearing. I do not mind cutting the frame rail and I might even weld back in a strip on the engine side of the flange to "capture the shaft in the frame rail flange. Also, should I cut off about 1" of the column shaft to get the Ujoint further away to help with the angles?

I am going to try to call you later today. I might have to wait to talk to you if your at GG's in TX this weekend. Anyway here are some pictures:

[aggie91]

Got my steering shaft hooked up. For what ever reason, I did not get the correct U-Joint for the column to shaft. I have to get the correct one for the final assebly, but this one worked out real well for moch up. Ended up going with a straight shaft from the column to the U-Joint on the rack.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Got my steering shaft hooked up. For what ever reason, I did not get the correct U-Joint for the column to shaft. I have to get the correct one for the final assebly, but this one worked out real well for moch up. Ended up going with a straight shaft from the column to the U-Joint on the rack.

thats looks perfect! do you need a support bearing? Maybe with the close tolerances to the frame it's best for deflection (if there is any/no idea)

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by moregrip

thats looks perfect! do you need a support bearing? Maybe with the close tolerances to the frame it's best for deflection (if there is any/no idea)

Typically the support bearing is only needed when you add a thrid u-joint in the shaft linkage. I wanted to avoid the 3rd joint, so I took some measurements and figured out that a single shaft with a joint on each end would work.

I hope to have the truck running and driving by end of next month so I can give a bit of feed back on the steering and linkage.

[Custom 68]

Great Karl. glad to see it hooked up.

[Custom 68]

Yes I too am wanting to hear some real world thoughts and experiences, that and for Rob to run a sale special again.

[aggie91]

We are getting closer. I am a bit behind the schedule we planned, but I don't want to cut corners. I hope to have some better updates in about 3 weeks.

[Custom 68]

Yes sir don't rush it this close to the end. It will be a great build.

[wraprail]

woops, wrong thread.
sorry

Thanks.

[Mondo]

I just installed this. I have CPP tubular arms, sway bar and 3in drop springs and dropped spindles and installed this R&P as part of my 5.3 conversion. I'm having a conflict with the sway bar when turning the wheels. It looks like guys with bags don't use a sway bar... I got to think my truck would sway pretty bad without anything.
Any suggestions on modifying/bending such a large sway bar?

[chevyc10lover]

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[61superman]

ok @robnolimit you mentioned it would or should work fine with a Z'd frame what about a stock pancaked crossmember (2in)? instead of bolting the bracket on could i weld it in place after of course making sure i was centered etc? any info from all would be appreciated or and other suggestions
its a 1963 suburban
2in pancaked stock crossmember
thx in advance

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by 61superman

ok @robnolimit you mentioned it would or should work fine with a Z'd frame what about a stock pancaked crossmember (2in)? instead of bolting the bracket on could i weld it in place after of course making sure i was centered etc? any info from all would be appreciated or and other suggestions
its a 1963 suburban
2in pancaked stock crossmember
thx in advance

The trick would be to keep the relationship (elevation) from the LCA mount to the rack pivot points the same. So, if you set the mount bracket on the crossmember as designed, the geometry should be fine. Now, mounting the bracket may require welding in your case. Also, rack - to - engine clearance may be slim. Did you raise the motor at all?