66 k20

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

Probably a bad bearing in the xfer, I had the same issue. That might also explain the high rolling resistance. Had same noise in mine and when I tore down the case it had issues. Done with rebuild, but haven't re installed yet to see. I knew it was transfer because I ran it with a longer driveshaft and case removed. Even though noise changed with trans gear selection and it looked like a trans problem, all noise went away when xfer removed. If you have access to a 2wd drive shaft, it is the ultimate way to trouble shoot it.
Good luck
Tom

I'm not going to rule that out, but it really sounds like it's coming from the trans. I've planned on going through the t case, but am not sure it's within my abilities or not if it needs something more than seals. There's a pretty good trans shop close that will do it, I haven't gotten a quote from them yet though.

Are you saying a regular 2wd longbed drive shaft with bolt right up? I've got one here from a 1/2 ton, I'm pretty sure it has 1310 joints on it and the output on my 4 speed is 1350's. I'd sure like to try that to see what happens.

[raylube]

No fun if you can't drive them even with 4.57 gears. I feel your pain drove mine with 4.57 gears and no mufflers at 60 mph for 30 miles on my first drive. The t221 transfer case is noisy normally . Drain and refill all your gear boxes and check for metal.
After doing a full look over of worn brakes and springs and hangers with hard to find or unavailable parts decided to find a square body as a organ donor giving me updated brakes, axles and 3.73 gears. Check all your springs and hangers and u bolts and alignment for the wandering. If you want i have eaton with locker and 5.14 gears you can have lol. Thanks for the updates.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by raylube

No fun if you can't drive them even with 4.57 gears. I feel your pain drove mine with 4.57 gears and no mufflers at 60 mph for 30 miles on my first drive. The t221 transfer case is noisy normally . Drain and refill all your gear boxes and check for metal.
After doing a full look over of worn brakes and springs and hangers with hard to find or unavailable parts decided to find a square body as a organ donor giving me updated brakes, axles and 3.73 gears. Check all your springs and hangers and u bolts and alignment for the wandering. If you want i have eaton with locker and 5.14 gears you can have lol. Thanks for the updates.

5:14 is going the wrong direction lol. I do hope that you don't scrap your old stuff though, it may be of use to someone.

I know the sm420 and t221 are going to have some gear noise, but I'm pretty sure this is not normal. I did fill but not drain everything before I drove very far and used 4 or 5 pints of 80/90 so nothing was anywhere near full. I've thought about draining the gear boxes and putting something a bit heavier in. First I'm going to continue with u joints as they all look pretty dry.

Thanks for your input, you and Tom and a couple others with 4wd's have been lifesavers getting this thing going.

[350TacoZilla]

Ahhh yes 4.57 gears and a 33" (well probably more like 32") tire will make for some laid back 1960's style top speeds for sure, I'm sure you can find some 3.73 or 4.10 axle to throw in there or maybe jump to a 35" tire.

Good to see you getting to drive it though man and I'm sure you will get the gremlins sorted out. If keeping it all original isn't a big concern to you a square body parts truck could provide the newer axle's,suspension etc and maybe even try to snatch a sm465\np205 combo and throw in if the SM420\t221 is shot.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by 350TacoZilla

Ahhh yes 4.57 gears and a 33" (well probably more like 32") tire will make for some laid back 1960's style top speeds for sure, I'm sure you can find some 3.73 or 4.10 axle to throw in there or maybe jump to a 35" tire.

Good to see you getting to drive it though man and I'm sure you will get the gremlins sorted out. If keeping it all original isn't a big concern to you a square body parts truck could provide the newer axle's,suspension etc and maybe even try to snatch a sm465\np205 combo and throw in if the SM420\t221 is shot.

I would like to keep it original if possible, but more than that I don’t want to do all the work it would take to swap axles. I’m just going to deal with the gearing, I don’t plan on going anywhere very far anyway. If anything I might consider swapping the trans for a 4500 or 5500 to get overdrive.

[Short 3/4]

Glad to see you are trying to keep that old survivor original. That old obsolete stuff is what makes your truck unique, not just another hacked up "improved " one.
If the shaft you have is 1/2 ton you may be able to get a conversion type u- joint to make it fit. Not something I would want for permanent, but good enough for a test. Like I said, I was convinced I had a transmission problem, but turned out to be x-fer ( of course on our old junk, it could be both)
For what it's worth, I was very happy with the results of a swap to 4.10 gears. Truck now cruises just fine at 60mph, which is as fast as I really want to go in one of these old things (if I'm in that much of a hurry, I have faster cars in the fleet)
So how were you able to make those 15" rims fit over your drums? I've seen some 3/4 ton C trucks with 15's but they have smaller brakes than the K trucks.
Glad you are making progress on the project, have fun with it
Tom

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

Glad to see you are trying to keep that old survivor original. That old obsolete stuff is what makes your truck unique, not just another hacked up "improved " one.

My thoughts exactly.

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

So how were you able to make those 15" rims fit over your drums? I've seen some 3/4 ton C trucks with 15's but they have smaller brakes than the K trucks.

The short answer is, I didn't. They are 15x10 and have a mile of backspace.

[aotte1]

Just a suggestion on the offered rear axle with no-spin. The no-spin should fit your current axle and would upgrade it. No-spins kind of rare. You could just take the third member.
I also like the look of the Eaton HO 52. Have them in both 64’ and 66’ trucks with 4:11 gears, No-Spins and 34” tires.
The photos show the 34” tires on the 64’ C20. They are on 16x6.5 GM wheels ( 66’ has 19.5 wheels) tires are 255x85x16 Toyo M-55. Note: your new rear drums look nice.

The HO52 4:11 gear sets are more commonly found in 68 to 72’ automatic trucks.

Again have the twisted photo issue.

Les

[aotte1]

T221

On K10 T221 opened and drained old fluid and checked bearing/gears. They all looked good. Did replace all the seals. On one seal that was a double seal it is no longer available, used two singles.
Been told key to long life is, make sure fluid level at max fill level. This keeps key bearing lubricated.

Note: Have some front and rear spring bushing parts, if yours needs rebuilt. Let me know, they are yours.

Les

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by aotte1

Just a suggestion on the offered rear axle with no-spin. The no-spin should fit your current axle and would upgrade it. No-spins kind of rare. You could just take the third member.
I also like the look of the Eaton HO 52. Have them in both 64’ and 66’ trucks with 4:11 gears, No-Spins and 34” tires.
The photos show the 34” tires on the 64’ C20. They are on 16x6.5 GM wheels ( 66’ has 19.5 wheels) tires are 255x85x16 Toyo M-55. Note: your new rear drums look nice.

The HO52 4:11 gear sets are more commonly found in 68 to 72’ automatic trucks.

Again have the twisted photo issue.

Les

The no spin was a 5:14 as I recall, I'd have to change the front also as I have 4:57.

That tire and wheel combo looks great. I love steels, I just found these for a good deal so I'm going to use them for now.

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by aotte1

T221

On K10 T221 opened and drained old fluid and checked bearing/gears. They all looked good. Did replace all the seals. On one seal that was a double seal it is no longer available, used two singles.
Been told key to long life is, make sure fluid level at max fill level. This keeps key bearing lubricated.

Note: Have some front and rear spring bushing parts, if yours needs rebuilt. Let me know, they are yours.

Les

I remember you saying to keep the t case full and I am watching that. I'm not convinced that's making all the noise. Seems like the more ujoints I replace the better it gets.

I'll keep you in mind for the spring parts, rear springs is midway up the list, one is either bigger than the other or one is broke, it sits quite lopsided. Never noticed until I put a bed on it. Thanks as always for your help.

[jdl71]

This is next on my list:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlM9na34Nu4

I did get the dorman kit and rebuild the rag joint and like most dorman products I was underwhelmed, but its in there. Then I was going to try to take some of the lash out using the set screw but it is seized to the adjuster nut. Any suggestions? It's naturally in a spot where you an arm with two wrists to get to.

[jdl71]

New rubber

[aotte1]

On the No-Spin, you can take it out of the 5.14 third member and put it in your 4:56 third member. It would be a nice up grade for you K20.
Les

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by aotte1

On the No-Spin, you can take it out of the 5.14 third member and put it in your 4:56 third member. It would be a nice up grade for you K20.
Les

I wasn't aware of that, thanks.

I replied to your PM.

[jdl71]

I thought perhaps if I put some actual metal between myself and the drivetrain the various noises might become less of an issue. Yes I know it's butch, but I don't have the skills, the time or the resources to likely every "restore" this so it will have to do for me.

[jdl71]

The donor

[jdl71]

Trying to continue improving the steering vagueness, I started pulling and prying on things and found the drag link shot. Naturally it was nothing I could just go town and pick up. I even tried to make one with tie rod ends and a sleeve, but couldn't get anywhere close so I ended up ordering the RareParts version which is...two very overpriced tie rods ends and a sleeve.

[jdl71]

My quest to quiet down the running gear continues. I noticed this a while back but it sort of fell off my radar:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmgX9CKfL4U

That seems excessive and I would imagine would create some noise when on/off the gas pedal. I pulled the cover off and that is not ring and pinion lash. When I turn the driveshaft the ring gear is moving, the axle shafts are not. I assume side gears and spiders is the next place to look?

[jdl71]

Axle splines

[jdl71]

I put the axle shafts back in and held the side gear with my finger while rotating the driveshaft. The slop is definetly there or the spiders although the side gear teeth that I could see didn’t look worn. The center pin maybe?

[350TacoZilla]

I would bet spider gears are main culprit with bit of slop wore into the shafts. Good to see the work you have gotten done on this.

[jdl71]

Went to a cruise last night here in town at the drive in. Pretty good turnout for being cool and damp.

[jdl71]

Few more. The Buick with a turbo LS was super cool

[jdl71]

This morning I dug this old Barden bumper out of my stash and put it on. Seems to fit good and looks appropriate.