68 S/C update.....

[Palf70Step]

Very Nice Rob!

[slowcpe]

Very nice.

[Houston Ben]

Looks good Rob!

Are the gauges DD or something else? I thought I remembered a thread where someone compared DD with some other brand and the other brand moved better.

[Chvy2NV]

Looks great bud

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

Very nice!!

Originally Posted by Texas Pugh

Looks super. Good job!

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Very Nice Rob!

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Very nice.

Originally Posted by Chvy2NV

Looks great bud

Thanks guys. I think it fits the theme of the truck better.

Originally Posted by Houston Ben

Looks good Rob!

Are the gauges DD or something else? I thought I remembered a thread where someone compared DD with some other brand and the other brand moved better.

It's a custom setup from Dakota Digital. I'm not sure of the thread that you are talking about. I've been using the DD setup for about 10 months now and absolutley love it!

[Hart_Rod]

Updated pictures....

[Number98]

Those look really sweet!

[mcbassin]

The new Gauges are so sweet!

[fishingjred73]

Finally got to see the S/C Farm Truck in person and meet Rob at CTC. That is one sweet truck!!

[smbrouss70]

I still wish I would have bought this out from under you, it is nicer than I expected it to be. Although, if I would have gotten it instead of you, it wouldn't be nearly as cool as it is now!

[Hart_Rod]

Thanks guys. Nothing new on the gold truck, but I have started back working on the green Porterbuilt truck. I've made myself a detailed list and am checking one thing off at a time.....

I do plan on dropping some coin on some new Ridetech adjustable shocks for the gold truck. I hope they are worth the money, but from everything I've read, they should be a good investment.

[skorpioskorpio]

A shrifter and a circle-D, OK I'm subscribed, same plan.

[boynton]

Question from a novice...work in on getting my truck buttoned up and realized the guy that did my harness forgot to put in a wire for my speedometer signal for my cluster. Do you know what wire (color) and where it is close to (trans/pcm) I should be looking for to pull this signal from? I can't get the guy who did my harness to answer the phone...for a week. Also are you running two temp senders or did you just pull from the stock one and last question what did you do for the oil pressure gauge? I have heard of guys modifying the oil filter/oil cooler lines to get oil pressure. I wasn't sure if the was a reliable option or a cheap one???

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by boynton

Question from a novice...work in on getting my truck buttoned up and realized the guy that did my harness forgot to put in a wire for my speedometer signal for my cluster. Do you know what wire (color) and where it is close to (trans/pcm) I should be looking for to pull this signal from? I can't get the guy who did my harness to answer the phone...for a week. Also are you running two temp senders or did you just pull from the stock one and last question what did you do for the oil pressure gauge? I have heard of guys modifying the oil filter/oil cooler lines to get oil pressure. I wasn't sure if the was a reliable option or a cheap one???

You will need to find out what your harness is modeled after and then get a schematic for that particula car to determine where you need to pull the speedo signal. I'm using an ODBII interface from Dakota Digital to push the temp signal to from the ECM to my VHX guauges. You can put a "T" in the back of the block to install a second oil pressure sender (one for your gauges and one for the ECM). Or you can "T" off of the oil cooler line, whichever is easier.

Originally Posted by skorpioskorpio

A shrifter and a circle-D, OK I'm subscribed, same plan.

Yep, this thing has a little bit of everything.....

[skorpioskorpio]

OK, finally went through the whole thread (with a sidetracked scan of the SuperBurb thread). So you're using the shrifter with a 6L80 eh? How are you liking the trans? I looked into that for my project but it just wasn't gonna really work out with what I was planning so mine is going to be used with a 4L80 with a 6 speed valve body instead. Does the 6L80 engine brake on down shifts with your setup? I'm sure it's in here somewhere but are you using an OEM PCM or something aftermarket?

Oh BTW, my shrifter is the anodized one, and my 4L80 has the bell cut off to mount a 4L60 bell with a machined adapter plate, here's pics:

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by skorpioskorpio

OK, finally went through the whole thread (with a sidetracked scan of the SuperBurb thread). So you're using the shrifter with a 6L80 eh? How are you liking the trans? I looked into that for my project but it just wasn't gonna really work out with what I was planning so mine is going to be used with a 4L80 with a 6 speed valve body instead. Does the 6L80 engine brake on down shifts with your setup? I'm sure it's in here somewhere but are you using an OEM PCM or something aftermarket?

Oh BTW, my shrifter is the anodized one, and my 4L80 has the bell cut off to mount a 4L60 bell with a machined adapter plate, here's pics:

A6's are nice trannys, complicated to tune, but well worth it when you're done. I'm using the factory 2013 Camaro ECM and TCM. It will engine brake on the downshifts if you enable that option within the transmission part of the tune. Nice steering wheel/paddle setup! I almost went with the black paddles, but thought the polished would go better with my Billet Specialties steering wheel. You'll really like it when it's all together and tuned properly.

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

A6's are nice trannys, complicated to tune, but well worth it when you're done. I'm using the factory 2013 Camaro ECM and TCM. It will engine brake on the downshifts if you enable that option within the transmission part of the tune. Nice steering wheel/paddle setup! I almost went with the black paddles, but thought the polished would go better with my Billet Specialties steering wheel. You'll really like it when it's all together and tuned properly.

Well I'm going to be using a mechanical throttle linkage and ITBs so basically, no 6L80 for me, because the 6Ls need torque management. The 6 speeded 4L80 though gives me a tight ratio 6 speed so I'm happy with that direction. You basically swap out the 1st and 2nd planetaries to slightly lower ratios and to make the gear combos make sense and then use a different valve body that can apply the OD clutch in 1st and 2nd as well as 3rd, so you get 1st, 1st+OD, 2nd, 2nd+OD, 3rd, and 3rd+OD. The valve body and TCM are from PCS.

Mine is going behind a 24 valve DOHC Trailblazer straight 6 with Weber DCOE pattern throttle bodies (though I may do actual DCOE Webers at first to get things going faster).

[boostedc10]

Damn Rob, everyone of your trucks are absolutely amazing! With the DD gauges, did you just order them black faced? Was there a cost difference? I like the way they look more stock.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by skorpioskorpio

Well I'm going to be using a mechanical throttle linkage and ITBs so basically, no 6L80 for me, because the 6Ls need torque management. The 6 speeded 4L80 though gives me a tight ratio 6 speed so I'm happy with that direction. You basically swap out the 1st and 2nd planetaries to slightly lower ratios and to make the gear combos make sense and then use a different valve body that can apply the OD clutch in 1st and 2nd as well as 3rd, so you get 1st, 1st+OD, 2nd, 2nd+OD, 3rd, and 3rd+OD. The valve body and TCM are from PCS.

Mine is going behind a 24 valve DOHC Trailblazer straight 6 with Weber DCOE pattern throttle bodies (though I may do actual DCOE Webers at first to get things going faster).

That sounds like a really sweet setup, .

Originally Posted by boostedc10

Damn Rob, everyone of your trucks are absolutely amazing! With the DD gauges, did you just order them black faced? Was there a cost difference? I like the way they look more stock.

Thanks Boosted. They are a custom setup I ordered from DD. It was more, but I can't remember how much. I'll have to check.

I ordered some new shocks from Ridetech today. I should have them by next week, .

[boynton]

Thanks so much for the info. I really appreciate the help.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by boynton

Thanks so much for the info. I really appreciate the help.

Your welcome! Glad I could help and let me know if you have any other questions.

My new Ridetech HQ shocks showed up today (ordered them Thursday). It took me a couple of hours to get them installed this evening. After installing them I took it for a short ride, and believe it or not, I could feel a difference as I was backing the truck down my driveway. I only took it on a short drive, but I'm already impressed with the difference in the feel of the truck. I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow and I'll give a better report, but so far, I give them a big thumbs up! OBTW, a BIG THANKS to board member Crawdadfox for getting my order shipped quickly, .

[WiggyHD]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

My new Ridetech HQ shocks showed up today OBTW, a BIG THANKS to board member Crawdadfox for getting my order shipped quickly, .

Were they Part #: 22189841 (rear) and Part #: 22149841 (front)? I didn't see anything pertaining to a different part number for a lowered truck.

Thanks!
Mark

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by WiggyHD

Were they Part #: 22189841 (rear) and Part #: 22149841 (front)? I didn't see anything pertaining to a different part number for a lowered truck.

Thanks!
Mark

Mark - measured the difference between mounting points on my front and rear shocks and then called Ridetech. They recommend the shock number that I should buy base off of those measurements.

On a different note, I changed out the axles hoping that the rear vibration/hop would go away but it didn't.... So I got to looking at the rotor/axle hub where the rear wheel bolts on and you can see where the wheel isn't bolting on centered. I think the CPP rotor is so thick that very little of the hub area is sticking out past the rotor, so the wheel is not centering up on the wheel flange. I have the cone style lugnuts but they are not forcing the wheel to center up, which is causing the rear to bounce. . Not really sure what to do now....

[chevyguy_72]

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Mark - measured the difference between mounting points on my front and rear shocks and then called Ridetech. They recommend the shock number that I should buy base off of those measurements.

On a different note, I changed out the axles hoping that the rear vibration/hop would go away but it didn't.... So I got to looking at the rotor/axle hub where the rear wheel bolts on and you can see where the wheel isn't bolting on centered. I think the CPP rotor is so thick that very little of the hub area is sticking out past the rotor, so the wheel is not centering up on the wheel flange. I have the cone style lugnuts but they are not forcing the wheel to center up, which is causing the rear to bounce. . Not really sure what to do now....

I actually read an post somewhere that said one of the axle tubes had tweaked under load and caused this same symptoms... This was a 1000hp truck... but who knows what it would actually take to tweak one...
Just a thought... I will see if I can find the post...

[C10_ustacould]

Sweet!! Did you get the adjustable version?