5.3 into 72

[jessemthompson]

My old trans was a TH350, but I used the driveshaft out of the donor vehicle. An 07 Suburban.

[jessemthompson]

I haven’t touched this post in a long time. Today I installed an Eaton posi carrier with the 3:73’s that were already in the rear end. I lucked out and the factory shims put the backlash right where it needed to be. It’s nice to have some traction now and not be a one tire fryer. I think next weekend I may install tear disk if I can figure out the booster/master combination I wanna go with.

[EdwardSams]

Nice build! Thanks for resurrecting this thread. Good reading.

[jessemthompson]

So tomorrow I start the cam swap on the 5.3. I’ve been waiting for years to do this. I went with the Truck Norris cam from BTR. My 5.3 is DOD, so the heads are coming off to replace the lifters. I have an autocal from black bear performance with a bae tune loaded for the cam. Hopefully everything goes smoothly.

[LS short box]

Since you are doing a cam swap are going to upgrade the valve springs and push rods. I would. Depending on your engine mileage I would also replace the plastic lifter guides. They are cheap.

[jessemthompson]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Since you are doing a cam swap are going to upgrade the valve springs and push rods. I would. Depending on your engine mileage I would also replace the plastic lifter guides. They are cheap.

I upgraded the springs, put in a set of LS7 lifters, new lifter trays and I upgraded the rocker trunnions. My 5.3 HAD the DOD, so the heads had to come off and the lifters had to be replaced. Now there’s just the process of tuning with black bear performance.

[jessemthompson]

So today I installed a cpp booster/master/prop valve. The factory booster bracket looks awful and I needed a disc/disc mc since it m going to be installing rear disc brakes. Hopefully by the end of the week. The new booster setup looks so much better. I also used captainfabs brake booster bracket. It worked out great.

[bigmoe]

You should make a filler piece for the opening on the front of your engine cover.
Have you had a chance to drive it? How do you like the new cam?

[jessemthompson]

I got it started and did some data logging. Sent the file to my tuner and I’m waiting for an updated file. I wasn’t able to really open it due to the tune not being dialed in. As for the engine cover. I shaved another intake to put on so I could get rid of it. Come to find out I put all that time in for nothing but the experience. I didn’t realize I had picked up a square port intake. I have cathedral ports. Btw your cover does look good with it filled.

[jessemthompson]

New idle clip with the BTR TRUCK NORRIS cam.

https://youtu.be/OuorqPhfocQ

[jessemthompson]

Finally got around to building a custom intake and airbox for my swap. Now I feel like my swap looks complete.

[bigmoe]

Looks good. Not many make the effort to properly isolate the intake from the engine bay heat.

[clay68c10]

Nice ride. I'm copying your gas tank idea.
What radiator are you currently using, and do you like it?

[jessemthompson]

I have a factory replacement radiator

[LS short box]

Just my .02 but a generic LS swap radiator makes the radiator hose routing a bit cleaner since the inlet and outlet are on right side of the radiator. On my 68 I ran a AFCO generic LS radiator. Biggest I could fit. Didn't have a any cold air but it is a good idea.

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by jessemthompson

I have a factory replacement radiator

Thanks. I'll be needing one soon, my old copper one is done.

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Just my .02 but a generic LS swap radiator makes the radiator hose routing a bit cleaner since the inlet and outlet are on right side of the radiator. On my 68 I ran a AFCO generic LS radiator. Biggest I could fit. Didn't have a any cold air but it is a good idea.

That looks great, but I'm running the factory airbox, so no go for me.

[jessemthompson]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Just my .02 but a generic LS swap radiator makes the radiator hose routing a bit cleaner since the inlet and outlet are on right side of the radiator. On my 68 I ran a AFCO generic LS radiator. Biggest I could fit. Didn't have a any cold air but it is a good idea.

I ran two aluminum LS swap radiators. They both only lasted one year. Electrolysis killed them both. With the cost and only lasting a year I gave up and went with a stock radiator. This one has been in for 3 years and hasn’t had any issues.

[MySons68C20]

Zinc anode is your friend..I have no issues after 7 years with the aluminum radiator using the anode plug in place of the petcock.

[bigmoe]

I'm trying a cap with an anode attached.

[jessemthompson]

After the first one I got a petcock with the anode. I had the same results. After that I was done spending so much on radiators. The stock one cools just as well as aftermarket aluminum ones. I’m not spending that much money over an upper radiator hose. My truck is my daily, so I go with what works.

[jessemthompson]

I finally got a decent engine cover for my swap. I also swapped my transmission this morning for one that doesn’t grind 3rd gear anymore. I’m looking to start doing some bodywork for my winter projects.

[rodstored-72]

looks nice jessie, I am looking for info on air intake systems for my GEN IV and '86 SWB. I would like to know what specifically you used to make up your air intake system & where you purchased it? ...if willing to share.

thanks!

[jessemthompson]

The tubing I used was Airaid AIR-100-400 UBI that I bought on Amazon. The airbox I fabricated using sheet metal and plexi glass for the top. I built a template out of cardboard and went from there.

[LS short box]

Couple of things.
I purchase the intake hoses from a place called Intakehose.com.
In regards to the LS alum radiator in my 98 Wrangler with a LS6/4L60E combo has 15 years on it with zero issues. I bought it from Novak Adapt out of Logan UT. I believe they were built at the time by Griffin.
IMHO many alum radiators fail is because of the the way they are mounted. I like securing the radiator top and bottom with rubber mounts like they did from the factory. Not "L" brackets welded to the radiator tanks.