project "C10 Fever" (68 factory black 396 swb)

[clay68c10]

Everything looks great so far, I’m looking forward to the big block. Hope your stance stays close, it looks really good.
What paint did you use for the cluster and glove box door? I’m going for that same look.

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by Chulisohombre

Looking great
Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by LakeAnna

Nice work!

Originally Posted by hewittca

Awesome work. That black bed looks nice!

Thank you!!!

Originally Posted by clay68c10

Everything looks great so far, I’m looking forward to the big block. Hope your stance stays close, it looks really good.
What paint did you use for the cluster and glove box door? I’m going for that same look.

I can't wait for the big block either. I got the comp cams Extreme Energy XE274H installed. It will be nice and lumpy but should be streetable. Powdercoated timing cover. I'm waiting for a tool to install the oil pump pickup tube onto the pump, and then I'll be able to get the bottom end buttoned up.

I just about have enough cash saved up so I'll be taking the heads in to be rebuilt in the next week or two.

I had my 7-year old help with the timing gears and cover...

[68bowtie]

After I got the bed installed (with 1/4" rubber pads) the body lines are way off! The original cab mounts are mushed. I have a rubber cab mount kit I'll be installing. I'm trying to figure out the best way to get the side moulding to line up but also have the front clip to cab line up. It looks like I'll need some decent shimming to get it to work from the dimensions I took. I think some trial and error will be needed... Has anyone else dealt with this?

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

Everything looks great so far, I’m looking forward to the big block. Hope your stance stays close, it looks really good.
What paint did you use for the cluster and glove box door? I’m going for that same look.

I copied 67_C-30 for the glove box door and gauge bezel:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=655962

[Eagle9502]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

choke delete bezel pics as requested...

Attachment 1709930

Attachment 1709931

Thanks!

[clay68c10]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

I copied 67_C-30 for the glove box door and gauge bezel:

Thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for

[68bowtie]

I spend way too much time searching for deals but on occasion it pays off. Scored a new set of ceramic BB8’s for around half price. Just one small scuff. One step closer to getting this 396 on the road.

[fishnixon]

Nice build...I really like the bed floor and the wheel/tire combo! Keep it up! I sent a PM about the interior.

[68bowtie]

I haven’t had a whole lot of time on the truck lately but I got the front half of the frame cleaned up and ready. I’m taking the 049 heads in for a rebuild tomorrow. I was going to run with the th350 and one tire frier for a while, but I decided I’m going to do things right the first time. I’m having a friend help me rebuild a th400 and I am getting a 4.10 posi unit from a family member. It will set me back a bit schedule wise, but I think it will be worth the wait. I can’t wait to drive this thing!

[68bowtie]

Firewall is done. Sanded and painted. Putting small things back together to get ready for the 396. Steering shaft and original bbc engine mounts powdercoated and reinstalled. Refurbed brake pedal bracket. Filled most the firewall holes with solid grommets. There won’t be much left in the engine bay. I relocated the speedo cable underneath the steering column where it will be mostly out of sight.

Got some new brake parts in the mail too.

[68bowtie]

Master mocked up. Just need some brake fluid so I can bench bleed, install, then work on bending the tubing. Question: Apparently you can run one or two front lines out of the prop valve. Are there pros/cons other than having to bend a second front line?

[knomadd]

Not really. If you don't run the second front, you just plug the extra fitting from the prop valve. If you do run the second front line, you'll have three lines to bring to the frame instead of two, and you can lose the tee at the crossmember that splits the right and left sides. That's about it.

[68bowtie]

Great thanks. I would rather install a tee than bend a whole new line. ��

[knomadd]

I'd also recommend, before you get it all finished up, if you aren't gong to run that brake switch on the prop valve, remove it and install a plug, or you'll end up re-bleeding your brakes later to remove it. I didn't remove mine, and I'm not using it, but it would be cleaner if I had removed it and installed a plug.

[68bowtie]

Thanks! Never thought of that. I’ll definitely be doing that. My dad used to say a smart man learns from his mistakes. But a wise man learns from someone else’s mistakes.

[68bowtie]

I hate brake fluid. So I was extra careful while bench bleeding and installing the master to cover all the parts from possible drips. Lesson learned through, double check all fittings before connecting to the lines! I had it all buttoned up nice and clean. Came out the next morning and there was a puddle of fluid on the ground. Grr. I apparently missed a fitting off the tee to the front driver wheel. At least the mess was limited to the crossmember and the floor.

[68bowtie]

I started working on the inner fenders. They are already really nice compared to most OEM, but I figured these are an easy part to try some body work. I filled a few unnecessary holes, and ground smooth. Used bondo for the first time. Wow! That stuff sets up fast. Maybe I used too much hardener, I’m not sure.

[68bowtie]

I also got my cab bushings replaced yesterday. Didn’t get any pictures but the cab and bed line up a lot better now...

[knomadd]

Brake lines look good!

With filler material, I was taught you should have a minimum of 5 minutes to work it before it gets too hard to spread or you used too much hardener. Any longer than 20 minutes and you didn't use enough. That's not necessarily a hard rule, just something to get you in a workable ballpark.

[68bowtie]

Good to know! I definitely used too much hardener. I think I may get some help with these. The inner fenders are a key part of the under hood aesthetics, and I just don’t think I have the patience for it.

[06rubi]

Oh man, glad I saw your build! I purchased my first C10 last month, it’s a 68 with a 454/400 and I was wanting to run the same wheel/tire size combo as you are. Glad to see it looks great! I’m not to sure of backspacing or drop I’m going to get yet though. It already has a 5 lug conversion and I’m not to sure what was done to it. When I get home I need to get it on jack stands and do some measuring. It’s got long tube headers that hang below the frame so I’m not sure if can drop it as far as I want. Great build so far, keep it up!

[68bowtie]

Heads! Finally...

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by 06rubi

Oh man, glad I saw your build! I purchased my first C10 last month, it’s a 68 with a 454/400 and I was wanting to run the same wheel/tire size combo as you are. Glad to see it looks great! I’m not to sure of backspacing or drop I’m going to get yet though. It already has a 5 lug conversion and I’m not to sure what was done to it. When I get home I need to get it on jack stands and do some measuring. It’s got long tube headers that hang below the frame so I’m not sure if can drop it as far as I want. Great build so far, keep it up!

Sounds like a nice truck from your avatar and description!

[68bowtie]

Well it's been inexcusably slow progress on the truck lately. I do have some engine dress up parts on order from CVF. Hoping to have the engine bolted into the frame soon.

I came across a deal I couldn't pass up today. The color doesn't match the OEM vinyl real well, but it's close enough to work for a while. I'm stoked! Seat upholstery was quite a ways down on my priority list, but I can't pass up a good deal. I'm hoping to sell the set I have (with some tears) to re-coup most of what I spent on these. I made a part trade to a guy for a stack of cash and a nice bench seat, and helped him bolt the bench into his truck.

[68Gold/white]

I don't know what color you are shooting for, but most vinyl dyes work very well. The Marhyde brand stuff that comes in a spray can has never failed me.